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Re: Ceiling liner

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  • Tom Jaax
    -Jim, The name Glasliner was on a sticker of my panels too as well as Glasteel. Same product, I don t know that world of trademarks, tradenames, brands, etc.
    Message 1 of 11 , Jun 21, 2005
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      -Jim, The name Glasliner was on a sticker of my panels too as well as
      Glasteel. Same product, I don't know that world of trademarks,
      tradenames, brands, etc. Regarding the edge material at the ceiling
      and sides joint, I think the thicker and wider is better. The mahogany
      will bend OK. I bought a 3/4inch thick board, about 8 foot long and
      width 5-6" (can't remember). Width is determined by the quality of the
      pieces in the board... I still have no table saw, so I used my skill
      saw ,set the angle you measure cabin side to ceiling, and made an edge
      jig to guide the saw. I started with a 3/4" wide pencil line on top,
      resulting with a 1 1/2" wide bottom (the angle). Cut along the 3/4".
      The uncut square edge faces inward in the ceiling, 3/4 is to the top,
      1 1/2 is facing down. I just measured a piece left over and it is 5/8
      and 1 3/8 and (3/4 thick). This trapezoidal shape is narrow and thick
      enough to bend. Back to cutting. Turn the board around if possible and
      use the other uncut edge. Now you have two 8' pieces. Use the
      reciprocal cuts from the board with a right angle saw. I used these in
      the aft part above the Nav Station and Stove area. It is 125 inches
      long. I'm sure all the better with one board length. So I got 4 long
      pieces to choose from. You need some width to get to thicker wood in
      the ceiling(orginal) to screw into. The very edge is too thin. You
      will screw at an angle so the resulting screw heads will be
      countersunk at an angle...not as pretty.Installing, just wedge some
      wooden pieces from the opposite sides. Even an adjustable boat hook
      works until you find other material.
      We bought three 4x8 sheets of Glasteel. Only 2x4 cut from the
      third. Because of the width of boat you have to cut lengthwise.
      Denece, I thought this stuff was masonite. I has lasted amazingly
      long.. I assume it is glued to the cabin sides. Aft I feel it is
      hollow, and I thought I would put some speakers here.. Have you
      crawled in there too?...Seems like lots of unused space.

      Tom
      S/V Lea-Rig
      35-#189




      -- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "JIM TEIPEN" <jteipen@m...> wrote:
      > Tom,
      >
      > I would also be interested in pictures of how you handled the finish
      joint
      > between the ceiling and cabin sides as you previously described if
      it would
      > be possible to post some.
      >
      > My woodworking skills aren't sufficient to do much with curves, so I
      was
      > considering using a thin strip of teak or mahagony placed on edge so
      that it
      > would easily make the bend. I was thinking it might be angle cut on
      the
      > outboard edge in order to better accomodate the angle between the
      ceiling
      > and cabin wall. Another option I was considering was 1/2 diameter
      round
      > welting material although I'm not sure exactly where I would attach
      it or
      > whether it would give a good finished appearance.
      >
      > Jim
      > S/V Alegria
      >
      > CN 35 -68
      >
      > >From: "Tom Jaax" <jaaxcarr@c...>
      > >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > >To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > >Subject: [campernicholson] Re: Ceiling liner
      > >Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 21:25:24 -0000
      > >
      > >-Albert, what is G-10 in your repair of sea hood? On sources for the
      > >Glasteel, I used a local building supplier who used a wholesaler:
      > >Guardian Building Product Distribution. They are nationwide: website
      > >is www.gbpd.com/ or www.guardianbp.com/ As we have mentioned, Home
      > >Depot may have some materials. Jim, on movement/rattling, the panels
      > >are very secure with #6 screws every 6-8 inches, plus the mahogany
      > >strips are screwed over each seam. The panels are removeable. It would
      > >be very easy to remove if I had not run a length of mahogany along the
      > >cabin sides to hold the edge. This piece is in two with a "cute"
      > >copper angle covering the joint. I countersunk this long piece at the
      > >angle as the cabin sides and left open (no bungs) for ease of removal.
      > > I am interested in the discussion of the sides. I noticed ours seems
      > >to be the same material as the ceiling over the side
      > >decks...hardboard, not plywood. But I did not want to destroy too much
      > >of the vinyl until I was ready. I never did like the wood screw/tap
      > >screw going into the outside edge of the fiberglass. I saw a 42 Camper
      > >& Nicholson forward window out and the chipped edges of fiberglass. So
      > > all along I have planned to through bolt these when I got to it and
      > >use new frames from a machine shop. I will then fill in the rounded
      > >edge on the inside. Big ideas...we will see out it unfolds.
      > > Tom
      > > Lea-Rig
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >-- In campernicholson@yahoogroups.com, "JIM TEIPEN" <jteipen@m...>
      wrote:
      > > > Al,
      > > >
      > > > Thanks for the response. I was planning to rechrome the window
      > >frames as
      > > > well. Most of the chrome is still there but there's some pretty
      severe
      > > > pitting but I'm hoping a chrome shop can fix that.
      > > >
      > > > Regarding the glass removal, I've heard that glass installers for
      > > > automobiles pass a guitar string between the glass and sealant and
      > >use it
      > > > saw fashion to release the old glass. I dont' know if that's
      true but I
      > > > thought I might try that and if I'm lucky enough to preserve all
      > >four, I'll
      > > > probably stay with the glass.
      > > >
      > > > How did you remove the vinyl covering? Can it just be peeled away
      > >or would
      > > > something like a wallpaper steamer help? Also, do the fasteners for
      > >the
      > > > wood blocks supporting the sea hood pass all the way through the
      > >deck? I've
      > > > removed the hood more than once and the blocks seem to be in
      very good
      > > > condition. But we are getting some leaks somewhere in that area and
      > >suspect
      > > > that it must be around these blocks.
      > > >
      > > > Lastly, I am very interested in using the Glasteel for the ceiling.
      > >Do you
      > > > happen to know any retail outlets that sell it within the
      States? I
      > > > checked their website today but didn't see any dealers listed.
      > > >
      > > > Thanks for the help
      > > >
      > > > Jim
      > > > SV Alegria
      > > > CN 35 - 68
      > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > >From: "Albert G. Boyce" <Albert_Boyce@c...>
      > > > >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > > >To: <campernicholson@yahoogroups.com>
      > > > >Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Ceiling liner
      > > > >Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2005 22:29:55 -0400
      > > > >
      > > > >Jim
      > > > >
      > > > >On the cabin sides, there is thin plywood that is attached to the
      > >fibreglas
      > > > >and cut very neatly around the windows. I think your approach to
      > >filling,
      > > > >sanding and painting is a good one. I believe that is how John and
      > >Sandy
      > > > >Larson have done it on Passport and it is quite handsome. I am
      halfway
      > > > >through filling and sanding the cabin sides, but I think I will go
      > >with the
      > > > >glasteel for the ceiling liner. I had plannned only to screw the
      > >ceilign
      > > > >panels so that they would be removable.
      > > > >
      > > > >I removed the windows and had the frames rechromed since they were
      > >in very
      > > > >poor condition. I also replaced the glass with lexan. I did not
      > > > >originally
      > > > >plan to replace the glass, but I broke two so decided to
      replace all of
      > > > >them.
      > > > >
      > > > >I decided this past fall to remove the vinyl covering and I am glad
      > >I did.
      > > > >It is a lot of work to refinish the interior, but it has been a
      good
      > > > >opportunity to get a good look at the underside of the deck. I had
      > >to tear
      > > > >out a section of the deck core just forward of the sea hood due to
      > >a leak
      > > > >through the wooden block supporting the sea hood.
      > > > >
      > > > >Good luck
      > > > >
      > > > >Al Boyce
      > > > > -----Original Message-----
      > > > > From: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > > >[mailto:campernicholson@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of JIM TEIPEN
      > > > > Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 6:53 PM
      > > > > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Ceiling liner
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > This thread on ceiling liners has been interesting to us since
      > >we have
      > > > >been
      > > > > planning to undertake a similar project soon. My thought on
      > >how to go
      > > > > about are very similar to what Tom actually did but I wasn't
      > >sure what
      > > > > material to use. Will definitely look into the Glasteel though.
      > > > >
      > > > > Tom, and others, I have some related questions :
      > > > >
      > > > > 1) Were any special steps necessary in order to insure the
      > >panels don't
      > > > > rattle or creak when underway or were common fasteners
      sufficient?
      > > > > 2)Are the panels easily removable in case of access to the
      > >underdeck is
      > > > >ever
      > > > > necessary or are they more or less permanently attached?
      This is
      > > > >related
      > > > >to
      > > > > my first question since I would be tempted to use screws and
      glue.
      > > > >
      > > > > For the cabin sides, my thinking was to remove the vinyl
      > >"wallpaper",
      > > > >sand
      > > > > everything as smoooth as possible, fill with epoxy or fiberglass
      > >filler
      > > > >as
      > > > > necessary and paint with polyurethane. I had planned to
      remove the
      > > > >windows
      > > > > first in order to facilitate this. However, never having
      > >removed any of
      > > > >the
      > > > > covering I can't tell what's under there to see if this plan is
      > > > >feasible.
      > > > >
      > > > > Any thoughts on this from anyone would be appreciated.
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > Jim
      > > > > S/V Alegria
      > > > > CN 35 #68
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > >From: "Tom Jaax" <jaaxcarr@c...>
      > > > > >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > >To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > > > >Subject: [campernicholson] Ceiling liner
      > > > > >Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 20:27:29 -0000
      > > > > >
      > > > > >Here is some details on my installation of our fiberglass
      panels.
      > > > > >Dennis, this material is too thin for boat building. It is
      about
      > > > > >1/16th inch thick nominally, more with the textured
      version. This
      > > > > >Glasteel is flexible and strong, not brittle. I don't think
      > >heat will
      > > > > >soften it like a vinyl. I had some in the sun and my
      truck's bed
      > > > > >enclosed with topper.
      > > > > >We chose the textured white,as the white was only available
      in the
      > > > > >smooth finish according to our supplier. We ordered from a
      building
      > > > > >supplier. I did see the textured white at Home Depot, before
      > >only the
      > > > > >smooth was there.(We plan to use the smooth later)
      > > > > > Before installation I worked on through bolted hardware
      on the
      > > > > >cabin top. Using the common method of drilling out the hole,
      > >oversize,
      > > > > >filling with epoxy, and redrilling to the size of the bolt. One
      > >area
      > > > > >needing a lot of work was the sea hood. What a surprise.
      There the
      > > > > >wooden blocks holding down the sea hood were mush. So I replace
      > >them
      > > > > >with white oak, through bolted them to the ceiling, on them I
      > >screwed
      > > > > >1/4 stainless plate, tapped a thread, and used flathead machine
      > >screw
      > > > > >for the sea hood.So water from the screw does not sit in a hole
      > >in the
      > > > > >oak, I drilled a drain hole...I know, it is over the top...
      > > > > > I used the existing framing/ceiling beams and added more as
      > >needed
      > > > > >for somewhat equal spacing. From the companionway hatch
      there are 7
      > > > > >full width mahogany strips up to the bulkhead by the mast. I
      > >will add
      > > > > >short lengths in the middle of the center hatch, and by the
      > > > > >companionway. I used douglas fir or wood flooring material
      for the
      > > > > >base of the added framing. These I cut a kerf to help bend the
      > >wood. I
      > > > > >kept them at 3/4 in thick, 1 1/2-1 3/4 wide. I epoxied and
      screwed
      > > > > >them to the fiberglass "skin" of the cabin top.I had 2x4, etc.
      > >wedged
      > > > > > to hold up the beams until cured. With them in place I used
      > >1/4 thick
      > > > > >oak stock to shape the ceiling, screwed in place.
      > > > > > I cut the fiberglass panel (4x8) with a finishing blade
      in skil
      > > > > >saw. It is not the same material as our resin/cloth fiberglass.
      > >I used
      > > > > >one large panel near companionway, spanning two beams. The
      rest are
      > > > > >narrow. I did not countersink the flathead screws. You can
      tap the
      > > > > >mahaogany strips to "seat" the wood flat. The panels tend to
      > >bend in a
      > > > > >flat arc according to the screws. Plywood probably would follow
      > >an arc
      > > > > >better. Just hold the panel up tight as you screw starting
      in the
      > > > > >center. Plan your seams/screws to your mahogany strips.
      > > > > > I made a 3/4 mahogany strip running the length of the
      > >cabin at the
      > > > > >edge of the side/top. It is an unusual shape. It holds up
      the edge.
      > > > > >You notice the imperfection of the builders, but not serious.
      > > > > > I used bronze screws that show. The thin mahogany strips
      > >have the
      > > > > >flathead with finish washers (not flat).
      > > > > > The spacing is narrower as I got to the mast, but it still
      > >looks
      > > > > >good. I think we may have some pictures so we can try to get
      > >them on
      > > > > >the site.
      > > > > > I know John and Sandy of "Passport" redid their cabin with
      > >painted
      > > > > >plywood and are pleased. There is woodworking talent in that
      > >crew..so
      > > > > >they could be a resource.
      > > > > > Tom Jaax
      > > > > > Lea-Rig
      > > > > > #189-35
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
      > > > > >
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