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4417Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck

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  • dan hamilton
    Oct 12, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      I have a canvas mast boot around the base of my mast on deck and have never had water leak below. Maybe I don't understand the problem.

      Dam


      --- On Sat, 10/11/08, David Burnham <burnhad@...> wrote:

      > From: David Burnham <burnhad@...>
      > Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck
      > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 8:56 PM
      > Hugh,
      > Sorry, but there is no way that you can prevent rainwater
      > coming down the keel-stepped mast.
      > The alternative is to seal the bottom of the mast and let
      > it collect inside the bottom of the mast.
      > Then pump the water overboard and out of the mast as
      > needed.
      > My Nic 33 has the same problem with sponging the shallow
      > bilge but I use the excuse to get out
      > onto the boat after every heavy rainshower.
      > David Burnham
      > Time... hull #19
      >
      >
      >
      > ----- Original Message ----
      > From: Hugh Price <hughprice@...>
      > To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 4:21:36 AM
      > Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing
      > Teak from deck
      >
      >
      > NICHOLSON HALF TONNER, LAYBACK
      >  
      > Anyone got a suggestion how I can prevent rainwater coming
      > down the keel-stepped mast ?
      > There is not a significant amount unless there has been
      > very heavy rain and it lies under the floor panels until I
      > sponge it out.
      >  
      > Have considered putting some expanding foam into the mast
      > cavity at deck level, but this would cause problems with
      > electrical cables, as it would make it extremely awkward to
      > replace any cables.
      >  
      > Hugh Price
      > Keswick
      > England
      >
      > > To: campernicholson@ yahoogroups. com
      > > From: phrf201@hotmail. com
      > > Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 12:09:02 +0000
      > > Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Suggestion when
      > removing Teak from deck
      > >
      > >
      > > I agree with Graham with one minor change. Over the
      > last few years I've been attaching deck hardware using
      > filled (thickened) epoxy as a bedding material. If the piece
      > of hardware is not already on a slightly raised base I make
      > that first (usually about 1/4 inch thick). At the same time
      > I fill all previous holes with epoxy and-as Graham noted in
      > his email-rake out any core and fill where the fasteners
      > will penetrate. After the raised base is shaped and faired
      > the fastener holes are drilled and countersunk. Then I
      > position the piece of hardware and start the bolts into the
      > holes before applying the last thin layer of sealant which
      > is also thickened epoxy-this insures that the nuts do not
      > get covered with the epoxy. The epoxy gets pulled into the
      > fastener hole and fills the countersink; snug everything
      > down; tighten the nuts slightly a day later. The epoxy
      > fillet/base can then be painted and will not discolor the
      > way some sealants do. If you ever have to
      > remove the hardware, heat the fastener heads with a
      > soldering gun and they will back out fairly easily. One nice
      > thing about epoxy is that it can be sanded and rebonded more
      > easily than most other sealants. If it sounds like I worry
      > too much about having to take off and re-do stuff on
      > deck....you' re right! Hope this helps.
      > >
      > > Stephen
      > > ____________ _________ _________ __
      > > > To: campernicholson@ yahoogroups. com
      > > > From: gnorbury@bondcar. com
      > > > Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 07:19:58 -0400
      > > > Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when
      > removing Teak from deck
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > George,
      > > >
      > > > The general principle is that movement is the
      > enemy of a good seal. You
      > > > want the deck hardware fastened tight enough that
      > it isn't going to move
      > > > around when subjected to load, and also it
      > mustn't be able to work loose
      > > > over time. Additionally, no fasteners should
      > directly penetrate a balsa
      > > > cored deck without the core material having been
      > reefed out and
      > > > back-filled with epoxy. Under those
      > circumstances, you wouldn't expect
      > > > the deck to be able to compress, so adequate
      > torque shouldn't be an issue.
      > > >
      > > > Conventional wisdom suggests a two step
      > tightening process when bedding
      > > > hardware; first apply the sealant and loosely
      > fastened the hardware,
      > > > then next day when the sealant has partially
      > cured, tighten it down
      > > > fully without permitting the through-bolts to
      > turn (else you destroy the
      > > > seal). That said, I've never had anything
      > leak if its been adequately
      > > > gooped up and fully tightened in the same
      > session.
      > > >
      > > > regards
      > > > Graham
      > > >
      > > > naumangl wrote:
      > > >>
      > > >> We have owned our 38 foot 1973 Ketch for over
      > 20 years. We keep Raga
      > > >> in New Bern NC. When rebedding the deck
      > hardware how much torque
      > > >> should be used on the nuts on the cleats, jib
      > track and safety line
      > > >> bases? Has anyone used substitute teak
      > materials?
      > > >> thanks
      > > >> George Nauman
      > > >>
      > > >>
      > > >>
      > > >
      > > >
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