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4416Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck

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  • David Burnham
    Oct 11, 2008
    • 0 Attachment

      Hugh,

      Sorry, but there is no way that you can prevent rainwater coming down the keel-stepped mast.

      The alternative is to seal the bottom of the mast and let it collect inside the bottom of the mast.

      Then pump the water overboard and out of the mast as needed.

      My Nic 33 has the same problem with sponging the shallow bilge but I use the excuse to get out

      onto the boat after every heavy rainshower.

      David Burnham

      Time... hull #19



      ----- Original Message ----
      From: Hugh Price <hughprice@...>
      To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 4:21:36 AM
      Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck

      NICHOLSON HALF TONNER, LAYBACK
       
      Anyone got a suggestion how I can prevent rainwater coming down the keel-stepped mast ?
      There is not a significant amount unless there has been very heavy rain and it lies under the floor panels until I sponge it out.
       
      Have considered putting some expanding foam into the mast cavity at deck level, but this would cause problems with electrical cables, as it would make it extremely awkward to replace any cables..
       
      Hugh Price
      Keswick
      England

      > To: campernicholson@ yahoogroups. com
      > From: phrf201@hotmail. com
      > Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 12:09:02 +0000
      > Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck
      >
      >
      > I agree with Graham with one minor change. Over the last few years I've been attaching deck hardware using filled (thickened) epoxy as a bedding material. If the piece of hardware is not already on a slightly
      raised base I make that first (usually about 1/4 inch thick). At the same time I fill all previous holes with epoxy and-as Graham noted in his email-rake out any core and fill where the fasteners will penetrate. After the raised base is shaped and faired the fastener holes are drilled and countersunk. Then I position the piece of hardware and start the bolts into the holes before applying the last thin layer of sealant which is also thickened epoxy-this insures that the nuts do not get covered with the epoxy. The epoxy gets pulled into the fastener hole and fills the countersink; snug everything down; tighten the nuts slightly a day later. The epoxy fillet/base can then be painted and will not discolor the way some sealants do. If you ever have to remove the hardware, heat the fastener heads with a soldering gun and they will back out fairly easily. One nice thing about epoxy is that it can be sanded and rebonded more easily than most other sealants. If it sounds like I worry too much about having to take off and re-do stuff on deck....you' re right! Hope this helps.
      >
      > Stephen
      > ____________ _________ _________ __
      > > To: campernicholson@ yahoogroups. com
      > > From: gnorbury@bondcar. com
      > > Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 07:19:58 -0400
      > > Subject: Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck
      > >
      > >
      > > George,
      > >
      > > The general principle is that movement is the enemy of a good seal. You
      > > want the deck hardware fastened tight enough that it isn't going to move
      > > around when subjected to load, and also it mustn't be able to work loose
      > > over time. Additionally, no fasteners should directly penetrate a balsa
      > > cored deck without the core material having been reefed out and
      > > back-filled with epoxy. Under those circumstances, you
      wouldn't expect
      > > the deck to be able to compress, so adequate torque shouldn't be an issue.
      > >
      > > Conventional wisdom suggests a two step tightening process when bedding
      > > hardware; first apply the sealant and loosely fastened the hardware,
      > > then next day when the sealant has partially cured, tighten it down
      > > fully without permitting the through-bolts to turn (else you destroy the
      > > seal). That said, I've never had anything leak if its been adequately
      > > gooped up and fully tightened in the same session.
      > >
      > > regards
      > > Graham
      > >
      > > naumangl wrote:
      > >>
      > >> We have owned our 38 foot 1973 Ketch for over 20 years. We keep Raga
      > >> in New Bern NC. When rebedding the deck hardware how much torque
      > >> should be used on the nuts on the cleats, jib track and safety
      line
      > >> bases? Has anyone used substitute teak materials?
      > >> thanks
      > >> George Nauman
      > >>
      > >>
      > >>
      > >
      > >
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