4409Re: [campernicholson] Suggestion when removing Teak from deck
- Oct 6, 2008George,
The general principle is that movement is the enemy of a good seal. You
want the deck hardware fastened tight enough that it isn't going to move
around when subjected to load, and also it mustn't be able to work loose
over time. Additionally, no fasteners should directly penetrate a balsa
cored deck without the core material having been reefed out and
back-filled with epoxy. Under those circumstances, you wouldn't expect
the deck to be able to compress, so adequate torque shouldn't be an issue.
Conventional wisdom suggests a two step tightening process when bedding
hardware; first apply the sealant and loosely fastened the hardware,
then next day when the sealant has partially cured, tighten it down
fully without permitting the through-bolts to turn (else you destroy the
seal). That said, I've never had anything leak if its been adequately
gooped up and fully tightened in the same session.
> We have owned our 38 foot 1973 Ketch for over 20 years. We keep Raga
> in New Bern NC. When rebedding the deck hardware how much torque
> should be used on the nuts on the cleats, jib track and safety line
> bases? Has anyone used substitute teak materials?
> George Nauman
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