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2632RE: [campernicholson] Genoa Track Blister repair

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  • Stephen Perry
    Apr 17, 2004
      The aluminum plates below the stanchion bases are actually below the level
      of the deck layup, the raised sections, or "pads" are primarily resin. The
      deck upper skin itself is quite thick and the alum. plates are integrated
      right into the layers of glass with perhaps a few layers of material omitted
      to maintain a uniform deck thickness. Perhaps in later years the alum.
      plates were omitted in the glass under the genoa tracks, but don't be
      surprised if you do find plates there. In my boat there were also backing
      plates below deck, also of aluminum. I have not yet rebuilt the raised genoa
      track bases but will construct something similar, probably leaving out the
      wood and using solid glass. This business of encasing wood in glass is not
      easy to do well-it's not quite the same as doing cored structures like
      decks. Yes, all the genoa track material is straight and I made a bending
      jig of construction lumber and 3/8 inch bolds to put a little pre-bend in. I
      have seen many people bend and bolt-as-you-go but I do not like that method.
      I did most of the fiberglass cutting with a skillsaw and cheap throw away
      blades, sometimes I use steel blades and sharpen them with a file as they
      wear down if I can't get cheap carbibe blades. Fibreglass is hard on cutting
      tools. I nip away and fine tune areas with a high speed grinder.rigged with
      production type abrasive discs. Soon I will be trying a roto-zip tool with
      various cutters-I'm always searching for better ways. I do not find drills
      and cutters or rotary rasps good enough for larger jobs although I do use
      them for some things. BTW Jim, have a good time in Hawii!!!

      >From: "JIM TEIPEN" <jteipen@...>
      >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      >To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      >Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Genoa Track Blister repair
      >Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 11:45:49 -0700
      >I'm leaving for Hawaii on June 26th and was hoping to attempt this repair
      >before then. With other projects though, I don't know if there will be
      >but we'll see.
      >I do not have the raised genoa tracks which thankfully should make the
      >repair easier, however, I will have to remove them in order to cut, fill
      >and sand certain areas. I have aluminium backing plates below deck and am
      >almost certain there are no plates embedded in the deck. The stanchions
      >a different situation however. The blistered areas that I do have are
      >around the embedded aluminum stanchion plates. If I understand your email
      >correctly, these are inside that raised deck area just below the base of
      >stanchion. Sound like it's necessary to completely cut around these to get
      >the corroded plate out. Did you then try to rebuild a similar raised area
      >when you did the filling and finishing and if so, how did you do it? Also,
      >how did you cut the deck layer? I was planning to try a rotary cutting bit
      >in a power drill but maybe there is a better way.
      >Finally, has anyone replaced the genoa track itself? Most tracks I've seen
      >on the market are straight while these are curved. Mine are probably
      >serviceable but have been nicked in a number of places. Wouldn't mind
      >putting new on if I can find a suitable replacement.
      >CN 35 -68
      > >From: "Stephen Perry" <phrf201@...>
      > >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > >To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > >Subject: RE: [campernicholson] Genoa Track Blister repair
      > >Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 23:33:59 +0000
      > >
      > >I missed a lot of emails over the last few weeks so I am just now getting
      > >around to putting in my two cents on the genoa track blister issue.
      > >Depending on the year of the boat the tracks may or may not be raised on
      > >either fiberglass, wood- or a combination of both, pads about an inch and
      > >half tall. That doesn't change very much the issue of the balsa core in
      > >deck and the repair procedure. My tracks were raised and I started by
      > >cutting the pad off which was glass over mahogany. Under the top layer of
      > >deck glass was an aluminum plate embedded completely in the glass. The
      > >type of construction was used under the stanchions. I assume these plates
      > >were used to distribute the loads of all the fasteners to keep the balsa
      > >core from crushing. I personally feel that a better method is to romove
      > >the core and make those areas of solid glass. It's strong and if
      > >leak there's nothing to get ruined-just a minor leak below. One real
      > >mistake
      > >is to cut a little core away while opening the affected area and stopping
      > >when you see clean balsa:make sure the core is dry by testing by using a
      > >meter, sometimes damp core can be detected by squeezing some core
      > >between your fingers. I'm sure some of you doing this repair have
      > >discovered
      > >the above stuff, but I hope I have helped someone!
      > >
      > >
      > > >From: "Dale_&_Paula" <beaverdp@...>
      > > >Reply-To: campernicholson@yahoogroups.com
      > > >To: <campernicholson@yahoogroups.com>
      > > >Subject: [campernicholson] Genoa Track Blister repair
      > > >Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 15:27:26 -0500
      > > >
      > > >Hello All,
      > > >
      > > >I am planning on removing genoa tracks on "Celestine" Nich 35 No.63
      > > >for the purpose of repairing blisters in vicinity of tracks. I have a
      > > >pretty good idea of what is involved. I am looking for any "been there
      > > >done thats."
      > > >
      > > >Dale and Paula Beaver
      > > >"S/V Celestine"
      > > >Boston
      > > >
      > >
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      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >Yahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
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