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[bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of

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  • Robert N. Lundy
    I appreciate the input. I hadn t thought of beveling the outer third the way you mention. That would look pretty neat. But it might preclude my favorite
    Message 1 of 5 , Nov 29, 1999
      I appreciate the input. I hadn't thought of beveling the outer third the way
      you mention. That would look pretty neat. But it might preclude my favorite
      method of having a square edge to run my router around to cut the final shape
      of the deck after its has been attached. I have looked at Patrick Crockett's
      pics alot. It looks like he went the recessed route (and it really does look
      nice). I'm pretty sure I'd screw this up badly.

      I think I have enough stock left to do the inside strake beveled. Since I have
      a Table Saw, its really a matter of setting up (finger boards, infeed roller
      stand).It'll be a little thicker, but these things look to be easy to bend
      around the hull. Then I'll add the two remaining strakes and the Gunwale will
      finish square.

      I've thought about using the hull forms as the bulkheads. What I really want
      to do is hide the buttstraps, so there is likely going to be some cut & fit.
      Also, I've toyed with the idea if building my mast partner differently, since
      I'll have that deck to fastern things to.

      Once you start to modify any of these seemingly small details, you really slow
      yourself down. Part of it is the thinking through process, the other is the
      lack of a scaled plan for an idiot like me to follow. Just going to a 1/2 inch
      bottom with the "square scarf" added significant time to my building process.
      If I didn't have my angle grinder to get the right bevel on that 1/2" bottom
      after attaching it and routing square, I'd still be sanding.

      BTW, what did you decide to build, the IMB?

      Robert Lundy

      Quoting John Bell <jmbell@...>:

      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: Robert N. Lundy <rlundy@...>
      > To: <bolger@egroups.com>
      > Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 8:06 PM
      > Subject: [bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of
      > > I was lucky and found some 18' ft fir 2X4s to get the wales out of.
      > Which
      > > brings me to why I've been putting this off.
      > >
      > > I want some decking fore and aft as bouyancy chambers, maybe foam, maybe
      > > just airtight with screw in access ports. anyway, the problem is with
      > these
      > > 5/8 x 1 1/2 triple wales. If I install them per the plan, the amount of
      > > curvature in the deck will (I think) spoil the lines somewhat. Plus I'LL
      > > have to figure out the curve in the deck beam. If I do flat decks, I'll
      > > have to go back and make more looonngg cuts to get a bevel right
      > I never built the float tanks on my Windsprint so take this for what it's
      > worth:
      > I'll send you a JPG off list that may give you one answer, provided you
      > feel
      > up to cutting those long bevels. Simply put you need to cut bevels one
      > side
      > of on the inner and outer strakes of the wales only. Since Windsprint has a
      > constant 15 degree flare along the length of the topsides, make those
      > bevels
      > 15 degrees. Install the inner strake with the bevel up, then and unbevelled
      > strake, followed by the outer strake with the beveled down. This makes a
      > nice looking "flange" gunwale. It will give a flat to stick decks to and
      > allow you to use recessed oarlock sockets. My dory has a similar gunwale,
      > but only two strakes. The long bevels were easy since they were cut before
      > I
      > scarfed them together. Ripping an eight foot board is a lot easier than one
      > twice that long, I know.
      > Another option is to recess the decks. You can either rip a short clamp to
      > mount on the inside of the hull to screw and glue to, or install them with
      > epoxy fillets and glass tape. Personally, I think the recessed decks will
      > look the best, but be the hardest to fit. If you use the flange method
      > described above, you could scribe the decks before attaching the two outer
      > strakes. This would save a lot of fiddling with the fit. (You could even
      > use
      > the router method to cut them out.) If you recess the decks, plan on
      > spending a lot of time cutting the decks to exactly the right shape.
      > In either case, I'd use the forward and aft molds as your bulkheads.
      > Best,
      > John Bell
      > Kennesaw, GA
      > jmbell@...
      > http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
      > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
      > Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to tablesaws.
      > http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1701
      > -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
      > -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1

      Robert N. Lundy
      St. Petersburg, Fla.

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