Re: folding schooner in Aust.
- Great fun reading your emails. I finished my folding schooner in
1978 (PB gave me sail number 17). When I was learning to sail it, I
ran aground in the shallow water a lot. Both my bilgeboards got bent
and cracked and eventually warped as well. I asked Phil B if he
could suggest a fix. One day, after running aground again, one half
of a board came flying out of the water next to the boat. I made new
boards and ran a fiberglass strip along the bottom edge and made sure
the board was slathered good with epoxy. Those new boards are about
twenty years old now and are doing great! PB had replied that there
was a similar warping problem on Dovekie boards. Have fun with your
--- In email@example.com, wattleweedooseeds@b... wrote:
> G'day and happy new year to all. I snuck home early from Xmas
> holidays at the beach to get into the glueing and screwing. for'ard
> hull now has decks, mast step, and rails across the floors and
> the insides for tieing down camping gear, anchors, etc. Most of my
> initial bogging and sanding is done ready for glassing the outside.
> Does anyone have any recomendations as to cloth weights to go with
> epoxy?Q2 Any suggestions for sealants on the inner hull? I want to
> seal this hull and hoist it into the rafters, then do the woodwork
> the aft hull before glassing both hulls with lots of volunteers on
> the promise of a beer and a feed from the Barbeque.
> Q3 Would anybody like to share their experiences in regards to
> centerboards and rudders only 1/2" thick? My first boat 25 years
> had thicker boards on an 11" scow with 85' of sail. Has anybody had
> one break? I'm willing to trust PB on this but it does'nt hurt to
> On another note, Iwas able to buy some maranti last week that
> 21' long, straight, and only 9.50 Au perlength. At another yard I
> found some excellent Tassie Oak that had been mispriced. Merry Xmas
> to me HO HO HO .Saved nearly 60%.
> Cheers for now Paul Day aus3.
> I made newsure
> boards and ran a fiberglass strip along the bottom edge and made
> the board was slathered good with epoxy.I would doubt that epoxy alone would make the boards much stiffer,
but I think a layer of glass in epoxy would stiffen them alot. You
could experiment. Of course, you need to make sure they don't get too
thick for the daggerboard cases.
Jacques Mertens at www.bateau.com designs 'composite' boats with
glass over plywood cores. The glass layers are not thick, but are an
essential part of the construction.
- Slathering the epoxy on the board and the glass on the bottom of the
board were to seal the board edges, trying to keep them from opening
up the grain when I scraped them running aground. I think that is
why the first ones warped. I do not think it is necessary to thicken
the boards, just try not to run aground!
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "Peter Vanderwaart" <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
> > I made new
> > boards and ran a fiberglass strip along the bottom edge and made
> > the board was slathered good with epoxy.
> I would doubt that epoxy alone would make the boards much stiffer,
> but I think a layer of glass in epoxy would stiffen them alot. You
> could experiment. Of course, you need to make sure they don't get
> thick for the daggerboard cases.
> Jacques Mertens at www.bateau.com designs 'composite' boats with
> glass over plywood cores. The glass layers are not thick, but are
> essential part of the construction.