Re: [bolger] Re: Micro keel/Navigator rig
- I hope so, Paul. By the time I nail that puppy with ring-shanks, she should
hold together. I originally planned for one inch nails...now the plan is
1.5" ...I'm staying rigidly flexible.
From: Paul A. Lefebvre, Jr. <paul@...>
To: email@example.com <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: [bolger] Re: Micro keel/Navigator rig
>Thanks, Don....... So is your 'baklava' keel going to work out, with thegot
>epoxy 'syrup' poured over it? I'd love to pour my own keel, I'm kind of a
>compulsive do-it-yourselfer; but I worry about the fumes, etc...... I've
>an electrician friend who has a plumber's burner designed to melt lead, soI
>would just need to buy a lot of gas..... but it still intimates me some.progresses.
>Dave Jost posted the name of the foundry he got his Micro keel poured at,
>it's very close by, and the price wasn't too bad, so that may be the one
>aspect of my micro that I hire out..... we'll see how the winter
>At this point the whole project still only exists in my head, but I thinkthe
>once I have all these pesky 'how-to' details ironed out in my head I'll be
>diving in pretty quick.
>Peter, you did a deadwood keel, with the lead through-bolted rather than
>hollow plywood box keel section...... I remember a long time about youso
>saying something about having had to compensate for the flotation added by
>this extra wood versus the would-be free-flooding hollow keel. So your lead
>must be heavier overall to compensate for the extra flotation of the
>timbers, and wider since there isn't 1/4" of plywood sandwiched around it,
>correct? I'd be interested in knowing how you calculated the weight
>compensation, fore-aft distribution, etc. around those notches to fit the
>deadwood - would you be willing to share your alternate keel pattern, info
>on the barrier coat used, structural considerations to receive the bolts,
>etc? Whether or not I cast my own keel, I will probably want to go with the
>more stout timber keel for many of the same reasons you once mentioned in
>this forum. Also, aside from building it for its own sake, the Micro is
>practice for eventually building a much larger liveaboard boat (hopefully!
>Otherwise I'll at least have a Micro to cruise around in!) which will also
>probably have a laminated deadwood keel, so I may as well learn how on a
>much smaller scale. I've built 4 strip canoes and kayaks, so while I'm
>confident I can build a keeled plywood boat, it is still new territory for
>me. Your pictures on Duckworks are excellent, by the way! Thanks for taking
>the time to put that story together for us.
>I just ordered '103 rigs' yesterday; I understand the Micro plans now come
>with the Navigator upgrade so I'm considering the Navigator 'chinese gaff'
>sail, though I'll stick with the standard cuddy. I've long been a junkie in
>my boat fantasies and subscribe to the junk rig list as well as this one,
>I'd like to try out that rig on the Micro with an eye toward gaininglooks
>experience with the rig for my big dream boat. But since I plan to trailer
>my micro, this may determine which rig I ultimately use; if the gaffer
>too complicated to set up and take down each time, I'll go with thestandard
>rig for simplicity. I know I'll go out more often if I don't have to spendI
>too long at the ramp swatting mosquitoes while I rig the boat. Of course if
>the mast is shorter on the gaffer (which PCB alludes to in the MAIB
>article), it might make for easier trailering. Hell, maybe I can even leave
>the mast up with the sail furled on deck if I'm just running back and forth
>to the ramp down the street! I'll have to check the powerlines enroute, but
>I've seen some awfully big trucks make it down my street.
>Does anyone know if PCB offers Long Micro plans with the chinese gaff rig?
>guess with the book in hand I could probably figure it out for myself,I
>knowing that rig already has his blessings for this boat, but it'd be nice
>if it came in the plans! Only reason I haven't sent in my check yet is cuz
>still may go for the Long.........
>Thanks, all, for sharing your Micro expertise! You've kept my enthusiasm
>high, and I'm hoping to join the fraternity very soon.....
>looking for something productive to do through a long Cape Cod winter.....
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- At least one Micro builder subcontracted the lead ballast to a
Another did some research with the people who provide lead shielding
for dentists offices, hospitals and other places who use x-rays. The
were willing to pour a slab of the desired thickness out of which the
desired shape could be cut. They would buy back the excess lead.
So, there are many ways to ballast a cat-yawl.
--- In email@example.com, "Don H. Reed" <donhreed@m...> wrote:
> Gosh, Peter, thanks for saying that...That's a shot in the
arm. 'Cause I
> was beginning to worry. I thought I could sneak by and build
> keel-mess...you've pretty much confirmed my thoughts on the
> is--to be out on the blue enjoying rather than wringing my hands in
> about "keel envy", or worse, keel fall off. Yikes!
> Even if it does, (fall off), @ $0.15 per lbs. for scrap
lead...it'll be back
> to the drawing board for sure. Now that's an Idea! Why hasn't one
> faithful gone into the mass produced, Micro-keel business? [It's a
> rhetorical question] ;-)
> Thanks for the help.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Vanderwaart <pvanderw@o...>
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>
> Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:09 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Micro keel
> >> clogged up. Molten lead splashed and hardened immediately--
> >> feeder hole.
> >Up to now, all the stories I have read about pouring keels include
> >the part where the hero takes a propane torch and heats the outlet
> >pipe to re-melt the plug that forms there.
> >I don't think that the Micro design relies on any strength from the
> >lead keel. If you get the keel properly built around the lead, you
> >should be fine.
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing
> >- stay on topic
> >- use punctuation
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> >- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- The list has cycled through keel casting before, but since there are some new
builders it might be worth repeating the following:
Lead can be melted on the kitchen stove (not suggested) or its equivalent - it
only takes around 750 degrees F. The fumes are toxic, and the arsenic usually
found in the melt is a concern. Normal free-flowing ventilation will take care
Any (Really, ANY - even a teaspoon!) water can be disasterous. A dripping tin
roof, a dipper with a few drops of water, or wet wheelweights added to the melt
can blow the melt right out of the pot and all over you. Thick gloves, good
boots, layered (non-synthetic) clothing is called for. Eye protection is a must.
BUT, it is really not that hard to do, and the lead can be sawed (even planed)
once cast, and since the Micro puts it all in a box, it is OK to have a flawed
casting. A half a dozen borrowed Coleman stoves and a few garage sale cast iron
pots will get you in the backyard foundary business. Anyone who has never
skimmed pieces of steel that are floating on a shiny pool of lead is missing a
thrill. Furthermore, you may know an expert - any friends who cast bullets or
fishing weights? Drift boat anchors?
If the lead is really that much of a block to your building, think about a steel
piece from a metal salvage yard. They are reasonable, sell by the pound, and
will cut to order.
Lastly,( though I have cast a lot of lead - but never a keel) consider doing
your cast into a 3 sided box. If it is level, you don't need a top! Disclaimer
- I haven't done it, but I know that the lead finds level all by itself.