Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Copper bottom treatment?

Expand Messages
  • pmcrannell@yahoo.com
    Bill, A good product for your purposes would be McLube s SailKote. It s a dry lubricant, a souped-up, harder version of Teflon. It s GREAT for all kinds of
    Message 1 of 13 , Sep 1, 2000
    • 0 Attachment

      A good product for your purposes would be McLube's SailKote. It's
      a dry lubricant, a souped-up, harder version of Teflon. It's GREAT
      for all kinds of lubricating, from sail slides, door hinges, to bike
      chains. Trailer sailors can buy it in liquid form (instead of the
      aerosol), and paint it on below the waterline. It dries in seconds,
      so you can put a bunch of coats on quickly. NOTHING will stick to it.
      It'll work for a few days, and makes the slime that accumulates after
      a week or so easy to hose off.

      Dinghy racers, here in Annapolis, use it for regattas where they
      have to keep the boats in the water for the duration - no dry
      sailing. It works as advertised in the Chesapeake's primordial soup.
      They also coat their spinnakers with it so they won't soak up water,
      keeping them lighter. All the serious racers use it to spray their
      rigs - sails slip around the mast and shrouds drastically easier.
      It's the only true dry lubricant out their, so you can lube headstay
      foils, mast tracks, travellers, and blocks without it picking up crud
      that bleeds out of this stuff as that dull grey scunge.

      Take care,

      --- In bolger@egroups.com, wmrpage@a... wrote:
      > In a message dated 8/31/00 2:28:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
      > richard@s... writes:
      > << I would tend to think that copper was used because it was
      available and
      > relatively mallable. >>
      > Pretty much wrong, I think, Richard. Copper was quite expensive
      and used
      > only because it had biocidal and corrosion resistant properties.
      The cost of
      > coppering the bottoms of British warships was strain on naval
      > reluctantly accepted because of its anti-fouling properties. If
      > and price were the criteria, lead certainly would have been used -
      as it was
      > on many church roofs. I don't think it was terribly effective
      against ship
      > worm - must have helped some, I'm sure, but I believe that teredo
      larvae are
      > quite small and presumably found interstices between the sheets,
      torn sheets
      > and the like to offer access to all that nice, tasty oak. Once
      started, they
      > could grow and munch their happy paths through out the timbers. I
      > that later in the 19th century a copper alloy called "Muntz metal"
      came into
      > use, perhaps because it was somewhat cheaper than "pure" copper,
      but I'm not
      > sure on that and can't recall a source. Copper sheets were often
      thicker at
      > the waterline where exposure to oxygen hastened corrosion.
      > If I'm not mistaken, Bolger lived aboard a boat of his design with
      a coppered
      > bottom for a time and spoke highly of its anti-fouling properties.
      If I'm not
      > mistaken, he said that the higher initial cost, compared to regular
      > applications of anti-fouling paint, more than paid for itself over
      time in
      > fewer haul-outs and the saving in paint.
      > I seem to recall that the posting that started this thread was by
      > contemplating trailer-sailing a Micro. Here in the land of fresh
      water, no
      > one bothers about anti-fouling paint on "dry" sailed boats - and
      few "wet"
      > sailed one either. Is anti-fouling treatment necessary for trailer-
      > boats operating in saltwater?
      > Bill in MN
    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.