RE: RE: [bolger] RE: Paint, Glass or Dynel for my cockpit
this is an interesting thread. I have successfully stored my boats under simple A frame tarps for years with no ill effects. I agree that that key is to prevent water from pooling, and to ensure good air circulation under the tarp. Current boat has 6oz glass set in epoxy on all surfaces. So far, so good 4 years later! no delam at all.
FYI - i tied a steel cable to a large tree and then to a frame positioned at the tongue of the trailer. Then, draped a tarp over the whole contraption and held it to the rail of the boat with C clamps. This keeps the snow off as well. it is kind of fun to sneak under the tarp and work on the boat in the middle of winter while laughing off the weather.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, <email@example.com> wrote:stored a small ply trailer sailer under a large plastic tarp for a year and had zero success in stopping water puddling in the boat no matter how i arranged the tarp. if nothing else, condensation in damp weather - even overnight dew -dripped off the contact points into the boat.
i now store it under a FREE-STANDING plastic tent (what is herabouts called an "igloo") and the airspace around seems to evaporate more water than gets in (though the salt spray residues sometimes gather water drops)
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2013 19:22:15 -0700
Subject: [bolger] RE: Paint, Glass or Dynel for my cockpit
I have another smaller trailer boat that doesn't get looked after as well as it should (I spend my spare time building the Chebacco, not maintaining the old boat the Chebacco will eventually replace.) I have found the foredeck suffers the most from weather and damage, so I will go with glass and epoxy on the deck and in the cockpit.
I have acquired some tins of Dulux Aquanamel http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dulux-interior-products/trim/product-detail?product=2184 which I intend to use on the deck and in the cockpit. It is water based but higher gloss and hardness than your average acrylic paint. It is used for doors and trim, inside and outside houses. I have noticed that the acrylic paint on my Cartopper and on my Eureka Canoe tends to rub off where it comes in contact with the trailer etc. Hopefully the Aquanamel will provide the benefits of acrylic with the hardness of an oil based paint.
Any thoughts or experience on this sort of paint?
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, <goodboat@...> wrote:I donâ€™t mean to argue with those who advise glassing plywood in deck and cockpit areas, but I do want to register the advantages of not doing so. Letâ€™s remember the savings in epoxy and fiberglass and time and labor and weight. Letâ€™s remember that only fir plywood checks badly. Oukoume doesnâ€™t and of course still better mahogany plywoods donâ€™t. Letâ€™s remember that plywood glassed on both sides canâ€™t get rid of moisture and will rot fast f it does get wet, and that moisture will follow the grain in laminates of plywood a long long way. Letâ€™s remember that paint breathes vapor pretty freely, while it does seal and protect against wear and water. In short, for most small plywood trailer-sailers and other dry-sailed plywood boats, paint is fine for cockpits and decks. I would only prime with epoxy after sanding and shaping fillets and while giving them and the tapes their final coat of epoxy. I leave off what glass I can, even topsides, and I use very light glass anywhere I do use it, mainly to guarantee a uniform layer of epoxy, except on bottoms.
These observations come from a builder who finds modern â€œcompositeâ€� boatbuilding, with plywood and fiberglass and epoxy, almost too slow and laborious! Oh for joints put together once and fastened and done with, so neat and clean! Just think how fast you could build a dory, traditionally. Paint it and go rowing, while the rest of us Instant Boatmakers are still coating and grinding and laying on glass.
Dynel, by the way, as weâ€™ve used it on Reubenâ€™s restorations of the Sound Inter Clubs, for decks and cabin-tops, is more texture than Iâ€™d want, myself. A little sand in the paint, as Susanne suggests, over glass, would be enough, and save weight and money.
De gustibus non est disputandum.Â Mason
From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of Jed Lavoie
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2013 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Paint, Glass or Dynel for my cockpit
A little extra work now saves you a ton of extra work later. Epoxy, fiberglass and paint. The only thing I use Dynel for is abrasion resistance. Fiberglass is stronger structurally and lighter since it requires less resin.
JedFrom: "a.c.l.yen@..." <a.c.l.yen@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 3, 2013 9:52 AM
Subject: [bolger] Paint, Glass or Dynel for my cockpitI am thinking about what to coat the cockpit plywood with in my Chebacco 25 build. (that indicates that I am getting closer to finished - the cockpit is almost finished and the cabin structure is being built ).From what I have read and experienced with other boats, I should be glassing the foredeck to protect from checking and damage . I might use Dynel as an alternative as it did pretty well on the bottom of my Cartopper.But if the foredeck needs protecting then surely the cockpit will need similar.What advice/experience is there for how much coating is enough. Epoxy+paint? Epoxy+glass+paint?, what paint?. The boat will basically be a trailer sailer so should have a cover on it most of the time - but "should" doesn't mean that it won't blow off.Andrew
dynel is for when you want to duplicate the look of canvas, but want a more peramanent solution. I found it tougher to fill the weave.
--- In email@example.com, <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:On 39’x7’5x1’x 225hp SACPAS-3 all outside surfaces were glassed with 10-oz cloth set in epoxy, plus coats of oil-based paint.
Local commercial repair yard doing steel draggers, tugs, wooden schooners etc. suggest using hard-edged sand-blasting ‘shot’ to sprinkle salt-shaker-fashion into the wet-paint, with another coat helping to keep the ‘traction’ in place. Avoid that non-slip around cleats and on-deck moving lines as both skin and fibers will be abraded...
Ditto on Jed’s glass-cloth comment versus Dynel.Susanne Altenburger, PB&FGood question.After all this work, I’d go conservative.
Glass-cloth in epoxy, plus paint (with non-slip in wet paint plus another coat), all for physical wear and protection from the effects of sun/heat, whether afloat or on wheels.
Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
I am thinking about what to coat the cockpit plywood with in my Chebacco 25 build. (that indicates that I am getting closer to finished - the cockpit is almost finished and the cabin structure is being built ).From what I have read and experienced with other boats, I should be glassing the foredeck to protect from checking and damage . I might use Dynel as an alternative as it did pretty well on the bottom of my Cartopper.But if the foredeck needs protecting then surely the cockpit will need similar.What advice/experience is there for how much coating is enough. Epoxy+paint? Epoxy+glass+paint?, what paint?. The boat will basically be a trailer sailer so should have a cover on it most of the time - but "should" doesn't mean that it won't blow off.Andrew