Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [bolger] Re: Four Cycle Gasoline? (was: Sustainability (world-wide forest die-off now))

Expand Messages
  • John Kohnen
    Any gasoline engine sold in the US since the late 70s is designed to use no-lead fuel. Using leaded fuel in an engine designed for unleaded shouldn t cause
    Message 1 of 64 , Apr 30, 2012
    • 0 Attachment
      Any gasoline engine sold in the US since the late '70s is designed to use
      no-lead fuel. Using leaded fuel in an engine designed for unleaded
      shouldn't cause any serious problems (spark plugs won't last quite as

      Gasohol is nasty stuff, but engines sold in the US for at least the last 5
      years or so are designed to tolerate it, though many older engines can
      stand it also, especially relatively "modern" motors. The problem is that
      the alcohol can attack some plastic and "rubber" parts in the fuel system.
      Older gas lines are often susceptible to damage from alcohol, but
      fortunately are easily replaced. Alcohol also absorbs water (you can buy
      alcohol "gas dryer" at the auto parts store), until at a certain point it
      can't absorb any more, at which point it dumps the water into the gas, :o(
      I've yet to have a problem with "phase separation" (I think they call it)
      in my gas tanks or gas cans, but I've noticed minor corrosion in the
      bottom of carburettor float bowls, probably from water sitting there after
      phase separation of that small amount of gas when left in the carb over
      the winter (run the gas out of the carb, and/or drain it before storing a
      motor!). Gasohol left in a carb for a long time seems to be more likely to
      clog things up than "real" gas, though not real gas premix for two-stroke
      motors (I don't know how bad gasohol premix is <g>, though I haven't yet
      had trouble with my 2-stroke weedeater even though I leave gas in the carb
      over the winter <shrug>). But the first time the idle jet clogged on my
      Tohatsu 3.5 it was alcohol free gas I left in the carb. <shrug>

      Just this year I started using Sta-Bil gas stabilizer in the fuel for my
      small engines. It's cheap, even for the "marine" grade, considering how
      little gas I use, even including the lawnmower and weedeater. Probably
      cheaper than not using it, because I was discarding small amounts of old
      gas I no longer had faith in.

      I don't know why your BIL had trouble with gasohol in the 2011 Tohatsu, it
      was built to use it. I haven't had any trouble with my 2006 Tohatsu 9.9
      with the Merc decals, which wasn't specifically built to use gasohol, nor
      did the previous owner. <shrug> But I do run the gas out of the carb
      before storing, and I'll bet he did too. I wouldn't be afraid to take my
      9.9 anywhere in the world, but I'd use a real good fuel filter! <g>

      On Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:51:44 -0700, Eric wrote:

      > My brother inlaws 2011 Tohatsu 8hp gave him all kinds of problems. Back
      > to dealer over and over. Turned out the problem was 10% Ethanol. At
      > least one of the local marinas sells gas that does not have Ethanol and
      > that is what he uses now. If an engine is designed to run on lead it
      > will not work well on lead free gas, and vice-versa unless specifically
      > designed to. Given that I will be sailing in different regions and
      > countries this would be a problem. Lead, lead free, ethanol if I use a
      > gas engine it would have to work properly with any combination.
      > ...

      John (jkohnen@...)
      We must respect the other fellow's religion, but only in the
      same sense and to the extent that we respect his theory that his
      wife is beautiful and his children smart. (H. L. Mencken)
    • c.ruzer
      I ve placed a scan of water resistance of epoxy coatings a test results article, in Jan/Feb/Mar 2012 Australian Amateur Boatbuilder #76, pp7&8, by Dr Bruce
      Message 64 of 64 , May 1, 2012
      • 0 Attachment
        I've placed a scan of "water resistance of epoxy coatings" a
        test results article, in Jan/Feb/Mar 2012 Australian Amateur Boatbuilder #76, pp7&8, by Dr Bruce McConkey, Boatcraft Pacific, in the BOATBUILDING folder in group Files:
        http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/BOATBUILDING/ (Seems similar to the tests Dr Dave Carnell conducted.)

        Dr McConkey's article authoritatively advises on what type of epoxy coating, thinners & etc. Does it mean ENCAPSULATION or just one side though?

        Sheathing counteracts checking and or abraision if that's a likely issue with the material or location... A good paint system alone is often advised for unwetted, low wear areas... or all over for light, dry-sailed boats.

        my 2cents...

        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "sandidgeneal" <nsandidge@...> wrote:
        > I suspect what you are saying is correct. Epoxy coating is not the be-all-end-all. However, monkey see monkey do, so I will sheathe and coat my AS29. But I will use a local epoxy that costs 40% of WEST. Is this false economy? I don't know. What does everyone else think?
        > Neal
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.