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Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications

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  • Connor, Patrick
    Relative to sailing to windward: to sail CLOSE to the wind, the front center board needs to be down and the lee boards all the way down. This implies about 3
    Message 1 of 18 , Apr 9, 2012
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      Relative to sailing to windward: to sail CLOSE to the wind, the front center board needs to be down and the lee boards all the way down. This implies about 3' 10" draft. Again, this is for close windward sailing. That front center board makes a big difference. So does a taut main halyard and downhaul.

      When those long, narrow lee boards are raised the center of lateral effort shifts aft very quickly, too much so to allow really close sailing. She will begin to fall off (lee helm) even as the sail continues to draw. But she will still sail to windward, just not closely. That is where a shallower triangular board may make a difference. So may a slightly deeper centerboard. One of these days if/when I have time I may build them up out of cheap fir plywood-only need to build one lee board to try it out- and give it a shot at the local reservoir.

      How shallow will she sail to windward? All I know is when we returned last from the Chesapeake, all of the paint was worn away from the kevlar sheathing the bottom and lower leading edges of the lee boards and we did a lot of windward sailing that trip-and cut a lot of corners. We even clawed off a beach within eight feet of the shoreline when sailing to weather due to a complete lack of attention. Never felt her touch, though. As my friend/crew who sails a Camper Nicholson 35 said afterwards: "these things really do wonders to erode your coastwise piloting skills!".

      Very important when sailing to windward to have the mizzen "free" or even furled. In order to tack reliably, it must not be allowed to catch wind before the main as the bow passes through the eye of the wind and the boat gathers way. Also fall off a few degrees before tacking to build up way and she will tack cleanly and reliably.
      --------------------------
      Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld


      From: Connor, Patrick
      To: 'bolger@yahoogroups.com' <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Mon Apr 09 08:59:37 2012
      Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications

      Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.

      In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.

      Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.

      When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.

      This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.

      If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.

      --------------------------
      Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld


      From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
      To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
      Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications

       

      Hi Patrick,

      A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115 quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:

      1. The leeboards were too narrow.
      2. The rudder was too small.

      Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!

      Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:

      1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
      2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?

      To empty do you:

      1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...

      2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?

      A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.

      Cheers,

      Rob.

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@...> wrote:
      >
      > To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
      > fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
      > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
      > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
      > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
      > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
      > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
      > painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
      > job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
      > none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
      > (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
      > isn't going anywhere.
      >
      > Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
      > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
      > flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
      > his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
      > cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
      > stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
      > Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
      > too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
      > had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
      > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
      > what specifics.
      >
      > When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
      > solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
      > galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
      > in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
      > called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
      > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
      > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
      > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
      > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
      > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
      > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
      > tested many times.
      >
      > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
      > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
      > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
      > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
      > it WILL be wet.
      >
      > That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
      > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
      > built- it was an important design.
      >
      > Patrick A. Connor

    • Rob Kellock
      Hi Patrick & Suzanne, Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn t want twin
      Message 2 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
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        Hi Patrick & Suzanne,

        Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn't want twin rudders because they would get in the way of accessing the boat over the stern transom and the linkage between the two would have to contend with the outboard motor.

        Anything wrong with the older style high aspect Martha Jane single hinged rudder except that you need to take a bunch of cheap pencils with you on every trip to break when you hit the bottom?

        Cheers,

        Rob.
      • Susanne@comcast.net
        Rob, to clarify, since the second rudder would be well under the hull - as is the first - with nothing to protrude beyond the transom. And the linkage should
        Message 3 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
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          Rob,

          to clarify, since the second rudder would be well under the hull - as is the first - with nothing to protrude beyond the transom.  And the linkage should be part of the thwart that supports the mizzen mast anyway.  Ergo, nothing to interfere.

          Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
          ----- Original Message -----
          Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 4:22 AM
          Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

           

          Hi Patrick & Suzanne,

          Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn't want twin rudders because they would get in the way of accessing the boat over the stern transom and the linkage between the two would have to contend with the outboard motor.

          Anything wrong with the older style high aspect Martha Jane single hinged rudder except that you need to take a bunch of cheap pencils with you on every trip to break when you hit the bottom?

          Cheers,

          Rob.

        • Connor, Patrick
          Could be doable. You would need to have hole aft somewhere for the line that raises and lowers the rudder. I often thought another solution would be to move
          Message 4 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
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            Could be doable. You would need to have hole aft somewhere for the line that raises and lowers the rudder. I often thought another solution would be to move the mast aft, move thengine forward a bit and go with a skimmer/MJ style rudder...

            Added benefit would it would significantly open up the cockpit and
            --------------------------
            Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld


            From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
            To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Tue Apr 10 03:22:13 2012
            Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

             

            Hi Patrick & Suzanne,

            Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn't want twin rudders because they would get in the way of accessing the boat over the stern transom and the linkage between the two would have to contend with the outboard motor.

            Anything wrong with the older style high aspect Martha Jane single hinged rudder except that you need to take a bunch of cheap pencils with you on every trip to break when you hit the bottom?

            Cheers,

            Rob.

          • Connor, Patrick
            Sorry all, hit send too soon. Anyways, the change would open up the cockpit to a huge degree. There s a lot going on back there (thwart, mast step, motor,
            Message 5 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
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              Sorry all, hit "send" too soon. Anyways, the change would open up the cockpit to a huge degree. There's a lot going on back
              there (thwart, mast step, motor, long tiller, a lot of lines (7), anchor & rode - at least on mine) in a small space. It all seems to manage
              but I won't deny that it's a fire drill at times, even with a good crew. I don't think Phil considered this too important as the rest of the
              boat certainly fosters the concept of the crew spreading out inside. But the extra usable space would be nice at certain times, say at
              mealtimes on pleasant evenings, and help with spce to neaten up.
               
              Can't speak to sail balance, etc. Might have to make the mizzen a little smaller, etc., but worth considering for new build.
               
              I think by far the cheapest solution for the rudder is to make the rudder about 2 1/2 -3 inches deeper. It's well slanted on its leading
              edge and this will allow it to ride up on obstructions- and it still would only draw 13"-13 1/2".

              From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kellock
              Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 4:22 AM
              To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

               

              Hi Patrick & Suzanne,

              Thank you for your detailed responses. Much appreciated. The rudder size issue is a tricky problem. Personally, I wouldn't want twin rudders because they would get in the way of accessing the boat over the stern transom and the linkage between the two would have to contend with the outboard motor.

              Anything wrong with the older style high aspect Martha Jane single hinged rudder except that you need to take a bunch of cheap pencils with you on every trip to break when you hit the bottom?

              Cheers,

              Rob.

            • sirdarnell
              Does the Whalewatcher rudder have an end plate? If not, adding one should give it a better grip on the water.
              Message 6 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
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                Does the Whalewatcher rudder have an end plate? If not, adding one should give it a better grip on the water.

                --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susanne@..." <philbolger@...> wrote:
                >
                > In-house we've discussed and drew across a range of cartoons and preliminary designs twin rudders, side-by-side, far enough apart to be to be just inside the transom-corners when fore& aft. Linkage yes, but not horrendous. Easier than your car's front-end...
                > Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
                >
                > ----- Original Message -----
                > From: Connor, Patrick
                > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
                > Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.
                >
                > In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.
                >
                > Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.
                >
                > When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.
                >
                > This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.
                >
                > If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.
                >
                > --------------------------
                > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
                >
                >
                >
                >
                > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                > From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                > Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
                > Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
                >
                >
                >
                > Hi Patrick,
                >
                > A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115 quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:
                >
                > 1. The leeboards were too narrow.
                > 2. The rudder was too small.
                >
                > Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!
                >
                > Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:
                >
                > 1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
                > 2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?
                >
                > To empty do you:
                >
                > 1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...
                >
                > 2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?
                >
                > A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.
                >
                > Cheers,
                >
                > Rob.
                >
                > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@> wrote:
                > >
                > > To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
                > > fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
                > > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
                > > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
                > > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
                > > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
                > > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
                > > painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
                > > job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
                > > none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
                > > (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
                > > isn't going anywhere.
                > >
                > > Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
                > > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
                > > flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
                > > his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
                > > cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
                > > stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
                > > Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
                > > too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
                > > had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
                > > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
                > > what specifics.
                > >
                > > When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
                > > solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
                > > galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
                > > in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
                > > called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
                > > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
                > > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
                > > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
                > > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
                > > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
                > > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
                > > tested many times.
                > >
                > > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
                > > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
                > > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
                > > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
                > > it WILL be wet.
                > >
                > > That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
                > > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
                > > built- it was an important design.
                > >
                > > Patrick A. Connor
                >
              • Connor, Patrick
                It has end plates Patrick A. Connor Executive Vice President & Manager, National Services Group Old Republic National Title Insurance Company 141 East Town
                Message 7 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
                • 0 Attachment
                  It has end plates
                   
                   
                  Patrick A. Connor
                  Executive Vice President & Manager,
                  National Services Group
                  Old Republic National Title Insurance Company
                  141 East Town Street, Suite 101
                  Columbus, Ohio 43215-5412
                  Phone: 614-341-1900 Ext 13502
                  Mobile: 614-208-9308
                  Facsimile: 614-341-1903
                   


                  From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sirdarnell
                  Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 1:28 PM
                  To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

                   

                  Does the Whalewatcher rudder have an end plate? If not, adding one should give it a better grip on the water.

                  --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susanne@..." <philbolger@...> wrote:

                  >
                  > In-house we've discussed and drew
                  across a range of cartoons and preliminary designs twin rudders, side-by-side, far enough apart to be to be just inside the transom-corners when fore& aft. Linkage yes, but not horrendous. Easier than your car's front-end...
                  >
                  Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
                  >
                  > ----- Original Message -----
                  > From: Connor, Patrick
                  > To:
                  href="mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com">bolger@yahoogroups.com
                  > Sent:
                  Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
                  > Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher
                  modifications
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Agree we have adapted
                  ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.
                  >
                  > In actual use we usually keep the
                  boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.
                  >
                  > Relative to ballast tanks ours is very
                  simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.
                  >
                  > When I
                  get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.
                  >
                  > This
                  arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.
                  >
                  > If you pursue this with a view of allowing water
                  to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.
                  >
                  >
                  --------------------------
                  > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  ----------------------------------------------------------
                  > From:
                  href="mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com">bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                  >
                  To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                  >
                  Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
                  > Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher
                  modifications
                  >
                  >
                  >
                  > Hi Patrick,
                  >
                  > A
                  number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115 quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:
                  >
                  > 1. The leeboards were too narrow.
                  > 2. The rudder
                  was too small.
                  >
                  > Were any of those earlier mooted modifications
                  undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!
                  >
                  > Also interested in how the water ballast filling and
                  emptying procedure works. To fill do you:
                  >
                  > 1. Open a plug inside
                  the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
                  > 2. Open
                  plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?
                  >
                  > To empty
                  do you:
                  >
                  > 1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat
                  out of the water on it's trailer or...
                  >
                  > 2. Use a bilge pump to
                  drain the tank while still afloat?
                  >
                  > A final question, have you
                  ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.
                  >
                  > Cheers,
                  >
                  > Rob.
                  >
                  >
                  --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@> wrote:
                  > >
                  > > To your
                  questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
                  > >
                  fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
                  > > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits
                  that
                  > > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2"
                  fir,
                  > > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the
                  time I got
                  > > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been
                  coated with epoxy
                  > > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior
                  (I believe), sanded,
                  > > painted and so far no additional checking.
                  Outside, Tim did a very good
                  > > job coating with epoxy and F/G and
                  there was no checking whatsover-and
                  > > none thus far. Tight and
                  strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
                  > > (instead of two by
                  the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
                  > > isn't going
                  anywhere.
                  > >
                  > > Tim departed on the plans by using a
                  foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
                  > > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume
                  both inside and outside, for additional
                  > > flotation high in emergency
                  situations. Phil alluded to this change in
                  > > his analysis of the
                  design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
                  > > cockpit about at the
                  mizzen mast step in order to add additional
                  > > stiffness in the aft
                  part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
                  > > Phil's thwart for
                  the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
                  > > too is a
                  good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
                  > > had
                  built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
                  > > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know
                  on
                  > > what specifics.
                  > >
                  > > When Phil was on the
                  boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
                  > > solid bulkheads in
                  the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
                  > > galley, as
                  opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
                  > > in the
                  aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
                  > >
                  called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
                  > > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
                  > > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should
                  open
                  > > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them
                  so. This
                  > > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication
                  of a very
                  > > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works
                  like a charm and
                  > > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest
                  downpour. This has been
                  > > tested many times.
                  > >
                  > > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the
                  bow
                  > > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make
                  sure to
                  > > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to
                  windward), and
                  > > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow
                  well and everything in
                  > > it WILL be wet.
                  > >
                  > >
                  That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
                  > > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it
                  got
                  > > built- it was an important design.
                  > >
                  > >
                  Patrick A. Connor
                  >

                • Susanne@comcast.net
                  There certainly is, and while I did not see the prototype out of the water, we sailed her in Annapolis under the strong assumption that Mason Smith had done
                  Message 8 of 18 , Apr 10, 2012
                  • 0 Attachment
                    There certainly is, and while I did not see the prototype out of the water, we sailed her in Annapolis under the strong assumption that Mason Smith had done her right; she looked so good and 'original' in every way we could see and touch.
                    Susanne
                    ----- Original Message -----
                    Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 1:28 PM
                    Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

                     

                    Does the Whalewatcher rudder have an end plate? If not, adding one should give it a better grip on the water.

                    --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susanne@..." <philbolger@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > In-house we've discussed and drew across a range of cartoons and preliminary designs twin rudders, side-by-side, far enough apart to be to be just inside the transom-corners when fore& aft. Linkage yes, but not horrendous. Easier than your car's front-end...
                    > Susanne Altenburger, PB&F
                    >
                    > ----- Original Message -----
                    > From: Connor, Patrick
                    > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                    > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:59 AM
                    > Subject: Re: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Agree we have adapted ourselves to Utilis, but that was easy; early on I thought the lee boards could be wider at the bottom and the rudder larger. I still maintain the same as to the rudder; it is underpowered and should be deeper. Pulling a number out of the air, I would say at least 25% deeper. However, after experimenting with experienced crew on several extended cruises, I have come to think the leeboards are fine. However in the correspondence between Phil and George, it was clear Phil felt the final shape a compromise simply to allow the windows to open fully with the board partly down. He drew an early cartoon that showed boards similar in shape to Black Skimmer's.
                    >
                    > In actual use we usually keep the boards part way down (and the windows open) in sheltered anchorages. In marinas and open anchorages we raise the boards all the way up- in the former to serve as fender boards and in the latter to eliminate banging. You can still crack the windows about 3". Keep in mind our forward windows open so there is still plenty of through ventilation.
                    >
                    > Relative to ballast tanks ours is very simple and employs no fancy devices. It is completely reliable. Our WW is set up with very simple screw-in type cockpit drain plugs at the deepest point of each tank (on the side, not the bottom and accessed from outside) and a vent on the top of each tank accessed from inside under the 'mid ships counter (bronze opening valve). Procedure is: prior to launch, open vents and remove the plugs. Launch boat. Tanks fill (and empty) in about ten minutes. They will fill completely. Close vents and screw in plugs. You need to wade in of course to replace the plugs unless you have a dinghy. You're all set. When taking out, we usually open the vents, then pull the boat out and then remove the plugs on the ramp. I trailer her behind an F-150 so there is plenty of reserve power to pull the extra weight a few feet. I would not recommend trailering her any distance with tanks full to save needless stress on the hull.
                    >
                    > When I get home I always mop out any remaining water (about a quart)with a sponge by removing a 6" opening cleaning/inspection port installed on the top of each tank. In storage, I leave the screw-in lids off for ventilation. The interior of her tanks are coated with many, many coats of epoxy.
                    >
                    > This arrangement doesn't allow water that gets into the boat to escape; it must be mopped up. However, we never have had water inside the boat, except once when we left the boat to run errands with the companionway wide open and a heavy thunderstorm struck. With the cover Mason designed, it stays snug and dry. Ours doesn't live outside when not sailing but if she did I would spend the money for a good cover.
                    >
                    > If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat.
                    >
                    > --------------------------
                    > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > ----------------------------------------------------------
                    > From: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                    > To: bolger@yahoogroups.com <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                    > Sent: Mon Apr 09 04:15:09 2012
                    > Subject: [bolger] Whalewatcher modifications
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > Hi Patrick,
                    >
                    > A number of modifications to Whalewatcher were mooted back in http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/message/64115 quite soon after your first big trip report. Two things in particular were raised:
                    >
                    > 1. The leeboards were too narrow.
                    > 2. The rudder was too small.
                    >
                    > Were any of those earlier mooted modifications undertaken or can I infer from your comments below, that in the end, the only changes that you felt really needed to be done were those you've listed below. In other words, you've adjusted to Utilis rather than the other way around!
                    >
                    > Also interested in how the water ballast filling and emptying procedure works. To fill do you:
                    >
                    > 1. Open a plug inside the boat in the centre of the ballast tank's upper surface. If this is the way its done then any rain that gets into the boat's cabin would automatically drain out through the ballast tank when the boat is being stored outside. That would be a big plus for me, knowing that I would never need to worry about rainwater building up inside the cabin when the boat is not being used.
                    > 2. Open plug/s port and/or starboard and wait for the ballast tank to fill. Do the unballasted parts of the boat fore and aft of the ballast tank support the boat when the ballast tank is open, in which case, I'd guess, you would have to add the last few gallons yourself manually with a bucket?
                    >
                    > To empty do you:
                    >
                    > 1. Allow the tank to purge itself as you pull the boat out of the water on it's trailer or...
                    >
                    > 2. Use a bilge pump to drain the tank while still afloat?
                    >
                    > A final question, have you ever tried sailing to windward in the really shallow water that it's alleged the bowboard will let you sail in, say 18 inches? My local sailing haunt is Lake Ellesmere, just outside Christchurch, New Zealand (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ellesmere_/_Te_Waihora). The lake is very shallow, mostly 4 foot deep, but also quite large at 9 miles wide and 18 miles long. I can sail far and wide in my Michalak Philsboat (I've NEVER seen another sailboat because I think it's too shallow for anything but specialised shoal draft sailing craft), but at 15'4" she's too slow to go anywhere fast.
                    >
                    > Cheers,
                    >
                    > Rob.
                    >
                    > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > > To your questions, the stringers on mine are old growth, vertical grain
                    > > fir. Tim Anderson, who built the hull in SoCal, had a big pile of it and
                    > > used it for all of the solid wood structural elements. The bits that
                    > > Mason added are Mahogany or Oak. Plywood for the hull was 1/2" fir,
                    > > older stuff and pretty good as far as fir goes, but by the time I got
                    > > the hull, was checked inside, even though it had been coated with epoxy
                    > > (no 'glass inside). Mason recoated the interior (I believe), sanded,
                    > > painted and so far no additional checking. Outside, Tim did a very good
                    > > job coating with epoxy and F/G and there was no checking whatsover-and
                    > > none thus far. Tight and strong. The bottom is three layers of 1/2" Ply
                    > > (instead of two by the plans) and three layers of 10-oz F/G cloth- it
                    > > isn't going anywhere.
                    > >
                    > > Tim departed on the plans by using a foam-cored upper deck with 1-by fir
                    > > stringers, clad in 1/4" okume both inside and outside, for additional
                    > > flotation high in emergency situations. Phil alluded to this change in
                    > > his analysis of the design. Tim also added a full width thwart in
                    > > cockpit about at the mizzen mast step in order to add additional
                    > > stiffness in the aft part of the hull, which it most certainly does.
                    > > Phil's thwart for the mast step is not drawn to full width. I think this
                    > > too is a good change. Tim is an experienced professional boatbuilder who
                    > > had built several Bolger boats over the years and had his own notions of
                    > > strength. I know he consulted periodically with Phil, but do not know on
                    > > what specifics.
                    > >
                    > > When Phil was on the boat, he asked if the plans had called for the
                    > > solid bulkheads in the two that make up the fore and aft faces of the
                    > > galley, as opposed to having cutouts like Jochems, so a person sitting
                    > > in the aft part of the cabin could see forward. I told him the plans
                    > > called for solid. His response: "That was an oversight." So there ya go.
                    > > I think the cutouts would be a desirable change. Mason and I also
                    > > decided that the windows facing forward into the bow well should open
                    > > outwards, to allow for ventilation, and Mason installed them so. This
                    > > too was a good change. Mason also directed the fabrication of a very
                    > > clever canvas cover for the center opening that works like a charm and
                    > > does not leak a drop, even in the heaviest downpour. This has been
                    > > tested many times.
                    > >
                    > > Put a flexible rubber flap on the underside of the hull to cover the bow
                    > > well drain hole so waves won't geyser into the bow well. Make sure to
                    > > make that bow center board (you will need it to go to windward), and
                    > > while you are at it, a filler, otherwise the bow well and everything in
                    > > it WILL be wet.
                    > >
                    > > That's it. This is a great design and a great boat. There needs to be
                    > > more of them! Phil commented when he sailed in her he was glad it got
                    > > built- it was an important design.
                    > >
                    > > Patrick A. Connor
                    >

                  • daschultz8275@sbcglobal.net
                    If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have
                    Message 9 of 18 , Apr 12, 2012
                    • 0 Attachment
                      "If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat. "

                      IMO depending on such a system will lead to rot when an unexpected corner stays wet, or the trailer is left at the wrong angle. Also, sooner or later the boat will be launched with the plug out and at least partially fill before the problem is caught.

                      Lastly even if the plug is never forgotten, it becomes a point of mechanical failure, again flooding the boat.

                      Don
                    • Connor, Patrick
                      agree. for the time, effort and $$ involved invest in a sound fitted full cover if you cannot arrange inside storage- not a blue tarp.
                      Message 10 of 18 , Apr 12, 2012
                      • 0 Attachment
                        agree. for the time, effort and $$ involved invest in a sound fitted full cover if you cannot arrange inside storage- not a blue tarp.
                         

                        From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of daschultz8275@...
                        Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:46 PM
                        To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: [bolger] Re: Whalewatcher modifications

                         

                        "If you pursue this with a view of allowing water to drain from the inside I might add that as designed the three athwartships structural members do not have limber holes which would be needed as a means to drain water to the deepest part of the hull. Of you do this you may need to increase their vertical dimension somewhat. "

                        IMO depending on such a system will lead to rot when an unexpected corner stays wet, or the trailer is left at the wrong angle. Also, sooner or later the boat will be launched with the plug out and at least partially fill before the problem is caught.

                        Lastly even if the plug is never forgotten, it becomes a point of mechanical failure, again flooding the boat.

                        Don

                      • daschultz8275@sbcglobal.net
                        ... Yes. As expensive as the custom cover is, it will be cheaper than building/renting/buying a structure...aye?
                        Message 11 of 18 , Apr 13, 2012
                        • 0 Attachment
                          --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Connor, Patrick" <pconnor@...> wrote:
                          >
                          > agree. for the time, effort and $$ involved invest in a sound fitted
                          > full cover if you cannot arrange inside storage- not a blue tarp.
                          >


                          Yes. As expensive as the custom cover is, it will be cheaper than building/renting/buying a structure...aye?
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