Re: Epoxy over polyester?
- the boats rode higher in the water because they were dried out.
--- In email@example.com, "John and Kathy Trussell" <jtrussell2@...> wrote:
> I once had to break up a fist fight between two little boys who were arguing
> about whether a Ferrari was faster than a Lamborghini. I mention this
> because I am not at all sure that I know what I'm talking about. As I
> recall, Vaitses put a very substantial fiberglass layup (cloth, mat, and
> more cloth) over an old sloop. He held everything together with ring nails
> driven through the layup (before application of resin) into the old hull. In
> doing so, he increased the thickness of the hull and if the new, 'fatter'
> hull displaced more water than the weight of the new FG skin, the boat would
> "float higher". I think that this is not particularly likely and suspect
> that a more likely explanation is that he stripped out/emptied the hull
> before he started work and either replaced the old interior with a new,
> lighter interior or that he didn't put as much stuff back in the boat before
> they launched it. But I wasn't there, and I still don't know if a Ferrari is
> faster than a Lamborghini.
> From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com] On Behalf Of
> Chris Crandall
> Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 10:47 AM
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Epoxy over polyester?
> I want to refine Stefan's posting.
> The Vaitses method is as described--a "creation" of a new hull outside
> the exterior of an older, solid wood one. It works, after a fashion, and
> is a "temporary" fix, in that the hull will not last forever, but the
> new life offered by the "topcoat" extends the life of the boat more than
> commensurate with labor, materials, and time required of the technique.
> However, this is not a "new" boat, nor is the hull adequate to stand on
> its own. The interior framing of the old boat is still essential, and a
> complete collapse of the interior planking will render the boat
> dangerous at best, useless at worst.
> The mechanics of the method creates a watertight hull. What is essential
> is a firm bond between the new skin (that's all it is) and the old,
> otherwise useable boat. This is what the ringnails do--provide a strong
> connection between the old skin and the new skin.
> So, the metaphor that is appropriate is a "skin graft". This will
> perform admirably, but it's not also a heart, lung, liver & kidney
> transplant as well--the framing, decking, motor, rigging, sails, and
> their condition determines the value and functionality of the boat. It's
> just a way to keep the water out--it's like wrapping the boat in a stiff
> balloon. (OK, a very stiff balloon).
> I'm not sure why he claims the boat will sit higher in the water--that
> seems to defy the laws of physics. Because the skin (polyester, nails,
> fabric) are all heavier than water, and because the skin displaces only
> its own volume, it should ride lower, unless . . . well I can think of
> several bad things that would make this happen, but none good.
- In his book he did restore sailing yachts with it - his stories include one being indestructable until it got cut in half by a steamer off shore.El sep 17, 2011, a las 5:06 pm, John Kohnen escribió:Vaitses's method was intended to get some more years of working out of
fishing boats and other workboats. I don't think I ever read of him
touting it for yachts.
A fellow I knew got ahold of a nice-looking British built double-ended
sailboat that had been cold-molded over. The work had been done in Port
Townsend, wooden boat capital of the west. That doesn't mean that
_everyone_ in Port Townsend knows what they're doing. <g> One day he cut
or drilled into the hull to mount something, and after he got through the
cold-molded outer shell he ran into -- compost! :o( From the outside the
boat looked great, from the inside it looked OK, in between was a layer of
very rotten wood, sandwiched between the cold-molded shell and a thin
layer of good wood on the inside of the planks. <sigh> He ground off the
cold-molded shell and discovered that just about every plank needed to be
replaced. He never got very far into the project before he lost heart, and
the boat was eventually broken up by the boatyard. If he'd never cut
through the outer shell maybe he'd have gone voyaging, and maybe the boat
would have brought him back. <shrug> After he knew that there wasn't much
of anything holding that outer shell to the rest of the boat he didn't
dare take her to sea.
The example many people give of a boat that was cold-molded over
successfully is a British cutter that spends most of its time around South
Georgia -- where it's _cold_ and the rot spores are probably in
hibernation. <g> I'd be very suspicious of any traditionally built wooden
boat that had been covered with glass, using polyester or epoxy, or had
been shelled with cold-molding.
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 09:27:44 -0700, dave wrote:
The vaitses method always makes me cringe when I hear about it. I guess
in the case of a boat with a really terminal hull, great interior and
great rig.... it might,just might, pay to do that, but if you're going
to build a new hull over the old one, why not cold mold? The part
nobody's talking about is fairing the new polyester hull. That's a huge
labor investment, unless you just don't care and decide to paint the raw
polyester, in which case you've built yourself a totally unsaleable
hulk. Either way, you've built yourself a totally unsaleable boat, so
you better love it for the 15 or so years it'll last before that
well-sheathed rot finishes its business; but if you fair it, at least
it'll look like a boat.
A fool and his money are soon elected. (Will Rogers)
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