was:Re: Epoxy over polyester? Dyer Glamour Girl launch
- these are GREAT boats!
I had experience with one that was converted to outboard with a 25 horse on a bracket. The boat handles exceptionally well and stayed completely level from 2 mph to top speed. almost no wave generation.
This would make a very economical boat with very smooth handling.
--- In email@example.com, Pierce Nichols <rocketgeek@...> wrote:
> My family has a 1950s era Dyer Glamour Girl launch... the hull is still in
> great shape. It needs an engine rebuild or perhaps just a new engine, so it
> hasn't been on the water in a few years.
> On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 2:28 PM, mkriley48 <mkriley48@...> wrote:
> > there are lots of boats that are going on 50 years old with polyester
> > coverings from new that are still going strong.
> > problem arise with bad application and substandard resin.
> > I have built several large deck and cabin assemblies and have done
> > testing on cutouts trying to remove the polyester with a hammer and chisel.
> > It always split the wood before it delaminated.
> > BTW polyester resists high temps better than epoxy. Epoxy will soften and
> > creep at the temps obtained under dark colors in florida, polyester resin
> > does not creep
> > lots of resins today are diluted with too much styrene.
> > mike
> > ------------------------------------
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- In his book he did restore sailing yachts with it - his stories include one being indestructable until it got cut in half by a steamer off shore.El sep 17, 2011, a las 5:06 pm, John Kohnen escribió:Vaitses's method was intended to get some more years of working out of
fishing boats and other workboats. I don't think I ever read of him
touting it for yachts.
A fellow I knew got ahold of a nice-looking British built double-ended
sailboat that had been cold-molded over. The work had been done in Port
Townsend, wooden boat capital of the west. That doesn't mean that
_everyone_ in Port Townsend knows what they're doing. <g> One day he cut
or drilled into the hull to mount something, and after he got through the
cold-molded outer shell he ran into -- compost! :o( From the outside the
boat looked great, from the inside it looked OK, in between was a layer of
very rotten wood, sandwiched between the cold-molded shell and a thin
layer of good wood on the inside of the planks. <sigh> He ground off the
cold-molded shell and discovered that just about every plank needed to be
replaced. He never got very far into the project before he lost heart, and
the boat was eventually broken up by the boatyard. If he'd never cut
through the outer shell maybe he'd have gone voyaging, and maybe the boat
would have brought him back. <shrug> After he knew that there wasn't much
of anything holding that outer shell to the rest of the boat he didn't
dare take her to sea.
The example many people give of a boat that was cold-molded over
successfully is a British cutter that spends most of its time around South
Georgia -- where it's _cold_ and the rot spores are probably in
hibernation. <g> I'd be very suspicious of any traditionally built wooden
boat that had been covered with glass, using polyester or epoxy, or had
been shelled with cold-molding.
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 09:27:44 -0700, dave wrote:
The vaitses method always makes me cringe when I hear about it. I guess
in the case of a boat with a really terminal hull, great interior and
great rig.... it might,just might, pay to do that, but if you're going
to build a new hull over the old one, why not cold mold? The part
nobody's talking about is fairing the new polyester hull. That's a huge
labor investment, unless you just don't care and decide to paint the raw
polyester, in which case you've built yourself a totally unsaleable
hulk. Either way, you've built yourself a totally unsaleable boat, so
you better love it for the 15 or so years it'll last before that
well-sheathed rot finishes its business; but if you fair it, at least
it'll look like a boat.
A fool and his money are soon elected. (Will Rogers)
- NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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