- Bill, That forum was amusing, proving once again that people will believe whatever is convenient to themselves. The different ratings for Canada (800#), EuropeMessage 1 of 17 , May 11, 2011View SourceBill,That forum was amusing, proving once again that people will believe whatever is convenient to themselves.The different ratings for Canada (800#), Europe (1200-1500#) and the U.S. (700) are baffling. The go for it crowd assumes it is the same car, but I'm not convinced of that yet.I've towed up to a thousand pounds already around town with the manual trans. The car slows but is just up to it. I'd thought one of these might help for longer distances. http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/electric/camcon/camcon.htm It's adjustable on the fly, so you can return to normal settings any time.Ah, brakes! If that's the central issue, then there has to be a way to deal with that.Thanks much.MarkOn May 11, 2011, at 6:16 AM, William wrote:
Yes. When I was much younger, a little dumber, and rather desperate, I removed the rear bumper from my 1981 Toyota Starlet, welded a class IV bumper hitch on the back, and pulled about 1,000 lbs (trailer and motorcycle) for 850 interstate miles. Fresh from the factory the Starlet was rated at a whooping 58 hp (that axle-twisting power was churned out by a 1.3 liter four). My tired, old Starlet probably had considerably fewer ponies by that point. But we made the trip safely and in decent shape. And about three years later I had to replace the transmission (5 speed stick). I suspect the trip shortened the life of the gear box, but we'll never know. But this question isn't about me, it's about you.
Can you tow 700 or 1,000 lbs with a Yaris? It depends on who's doing the towing. It also depends on what you're towing (trailer brakes?), and where (interstate in major city, or quiet backroads? Long distances or short? Hills? Traffic?). There's a thread on Yaris towing on the Yaris forum that's worth reading. I agree with some of the posters in the thread that frame twist isn't an issue while towing.
But like most things on the inter-web, people are polarized on the topic. I think they end up polarized b/c they consider the "who" and the "what" and the "where" and those in favor of towing envision a prudent and careful tower, and those against towing envision a drooling moron behind the wheel.
My advice? First, mind the transmission. If it's an automatic, you need a transmission cooler or towing will quickly cook the fluid. If it's a stick, just mind the shifts. Second, you can boost the rear coil springs with hard, rubber coil spring helpers. We called them "knuckle busters" when I was a kid. Just jack-up car, jam them between two coils, and drop the car. Third, I'd consider trailer brakes. But a small boat trailer (or a Harbor Freight special)won't have them, and a small trailer isn't set-up to accept brake hubs. Be careful.
Just my advice. You'll do what you want to.
Bill, in Texas
--- In email@example.com, Mark Albanese <marka97203@...> wrote:
> Has anyone looked into enhancing the towing ability of a small car?
> My Yaris is said by the factory to be good for 7-800 pounds. I'm
> pretty sure its not the engine or even tranny that sets the limit,
> but the frame itself. Adding just a couple of hundred pounds would
> expand my choice of cruising boats.
> Do "load levelers" work in this way? Any other thoughts?
- Not getting the tow vehicle wheels wet: ROGUE needs a minimum of four feed of water depth the entire length of the trailer 26 and I tow ROGUE with a twoMessage 2 of 17 , May 11, 2011View SourceNot getting the tow vehicle wheels wet: ROGUE needs a minimum of four feed of water depth the entire length of the trailer 26' and I tow ROGUE with a two wheel drive truck. I avoid getting the truck's wheels wet by tying on with rope a wood tow bar to the tongue of the trailer. This extension is the length of the trailer. The other end is attached to the ball hitch with a ubolt around the narrow part of the ball. Works fine, and if there is a stop wall at the bottom of the ramp and I hit it too hard the only thing I break is some scraps of rope easily repaired.
Because a trailer tows best when the trailer wheels are far back on the trailer, a long tongued trailer tows better than a short tongue trailer.
I concur with what others have said about towing. Use your own best judgement based upon your needs. Replacing a transmission with a used transmission is cheaper by far than buying and maintaining a special tow vehicle, and likely cheaper than replacing the present vehicle with a better tow vehicle. You can do a cost benefit analysis.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "thedumbox2" <thedumbox@...> wrote:
> I'd be keen to hear Micro owners thoughts on trailering Micro. I can't imagine that it would be any more difficult than trailering a Compac 16. What are your experiences? Thanks, Dennis
- ... Btw in the 600 - 1000# range, another 200 seems to make the difference between too small and just large enough.Message 3 of 17 , May 11, 2011View Source
>Btw in the 600 - <>1000# range, another 200 seems to make the
> Adding 200 pounds is not a lot
difference between too small and just large enough.
- I concur, launching was not bad, but I added a launch tongue made out of double 2X4 s to get it deeper. I would recommend a drop axle if you can find one toMessage 4 of 17 , May 16, 2011View SourceI concur, launching was not bad, but I added a launch tongue made out of double 2X4's to get it deeper. I would recommend a drop axle if you can find one to get the boat as low to the road as possible. A pair of vertical post guides made retrieval quite easy.
I would go for the tabernacle if I did it again. It was a fun boat.
--- In email@example.com, "Myles J. Swift" <mswift@...> wrote:
> My main problem trailering Micro is getting the mast up and down. I need to
> change it to a tabernacle if I keep it.