Re: sanding, lumps, rudder
If you are asking if my glass sheathing continues across the
butt-joints, the answer is yes. My work table is 40 ft. long
(sawhorses and planks). I joined all of the sheets (5) in each
layer using three layers of 9 oz. bias tape on each side.
After building six layers one on top the other, I drew the
curvature of one side of the bottom and sawed the curve in as
many layers as my circular saw would penetrate (4 and part way
into layer 5) at one time. I applied glass cloth in epoxy to
the top two layers in the stack (had to flip one of them
first). These were then turned over and became the bottom
layer of the 3 layer bottom. BTW I am using 1/2 in. MDO. I
have a series of rope block-and-tackles which slide in
sections of sliding door track attached to my rafters on 8 ft.
centers. I can lift a 40' x 4' x1/2" panel off my table and
maneuver it over to the boat in about 4 minutes. I have to go
up and down the line adjusting pulleys several times during
the maneuver. I cleat the tails of the rope tackles on the
handles of the C clamps which I use to grab onto the panel.
After getting 2 layers attached to the bottom with thickened
epoxy and screws, I could then finish cutting through the rest
of the layers following the saw kerf left in layer 5. There is
a full lenghth center shoe (keel) on this design which is
about 2 ft wide and 4 layers of 1/2 in. ply thick. This allows
the bottom layers to run fore and aft joining up the center
over this shoe. So the center 2 ft of the hull is 7 layers of
1/2 in. (Bolger designed this hull as a river cruiser, and
there are all sorts of things found floating in most rivers.
Hopefully, the bottom of my boat will take an occasional
floating log in stride.) I am just today glueing the last
layers of the bottom onto the hull.
> Is there any "laminated joint" effect that is lost doing it this
> rather than laminating *after* the plywood is bent into shape?
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