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Re: [bolger] Flotation Help

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  • John Huft
    We ve all kicked in our 2 cents and I might be guilty of giving a nickles worth but here s some more... I am of the school of thought that any small sailboat
    Message 1 of 32 , Jan 29, 2010
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      We've all kicked in our 2 cents and I might be guilty of giving a nickles worth but here's some more...

      I am of the school of thought that any small sailboat boat, especially a sharpie can get knocked down.  So once you've got her all together, I'd do a capsize test.  I'd take her into the shallows and deliberately capsize her.  Here's the procedure, get some buddies and some barley pops and anchor the bow and stern.  Have your buddies hold her in place and then tie a line to the mast head and pull her over.  You'll get a good idea how far she can heel, what it takes to right her, how much water she can ship, how she'll behave swamped, and how to get back in her to start bailing.  You can make this a family adventure with the kids too.
      John Boy


      From: gbroadlick <GBroadlick@...>
      To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wed, January 27, 2010 10:59:04 PM
      Subject: [bolger] Flotation Help

       


      I have built to plan a Parker Ohio Sharpie. The hull is ready to paint but the interior is not finished needing deck, seats, center board etc installed. I would like to use the boat for trips such as the Texas 200, Everglades challenge etc. The boat as drawn has no flotation. I could use some help determining how and where to place the flotation. My most recent idea is to create enclosed compartments in the bow and stern with a hatch for access, and to skin the inner surface of the frames creating a space between the hull and skin. I thought i would fill this space with 2 part urithane foam. This would create a closed space with no access. Is this a problem?

      Location Displacement
      Bow 1025 lb
      Transom 850 lb
      Port side 600 lb
      Starbord side 600 lb
      Total 3075 lb
      http://www.parker-marine.com/parker2_3.htm


    • Rick Bedard
      My solution is to build the compartments with big limber holes at the low point and big vent holes up high (are they still limbers when up high?) and set in a
      Message 32 of 32 , Jan 30, 2010
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        My solution is to build the compartments with big limber holes at the low point and big vent holes up high (are they still limbers when up high?) and set in a foam block built up from slabs of the blue stuff that has "feet" (small, 3/4" square blocks of 1/2" thick foam glued to the "motherblock") attached to the bottom, top and sides in just enough places to wedge the main block in place yet keep the block clear of the walls by enough to allow air and water to pass all around and under with very little contact area between the painted plywood and the foam, just where the "feet" are, no contact between the plywood and the "motherblock". Air movement and drainage keep the compartments dry and I'm able to flush them out by sticking a hose in though the limbers on occasion. Yes, I've lost some volume of flotation, a trade-off I'll take to avoid what I found in the past when I dug and scraped waterlogged foam out of a compartment only to discover rotted plywood underneath.
         
        I did this on a Diablo I built in 2001 and so far it works great.  Well... the flotation hasn't been put to the ultimate test but the flotation compartments, hull and foam blocks were in good condition when I pulled them during a remodeling re-fit last winter.

        Rick

        --- On Sat, 1/30/10, Douglas Pollard <dougpol1@...> wrote:

        From: Douglas Pollard <dougpol1@...>
        Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Flotation Help
        To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Saturday, January 30, 2010, 6:47 AM

        I would think that the wood will rot long before the foam does in the
        case of a leak. But it is still a good idea to keep the foam away from
        the wood so that air can circulate between foam and wood. Wood is going
        to rot sooner or later and nothing can be done about that. Poisons will
        stop it for a while until they leach or wash out. Wooden boats are not
        permanant. I suspect that foam takes up less space in the boat than
        bottles and space is at a premium in small boats. A wooden boat with
        water ballast doesn not need flotaion for it's self as it will float but
        it does need flotation for a great deal of it's contents.
        The really good thing about bottles is they can be put in a net and air
        can circulate all around and through them. That is a huge advantage. Doug

        Rick Bedard wrote:
        >
        > Not to stir up trouble but this (quote below) is exactly the reason
        > why I do not use this type of foam.
        > In my world if there is a leak on a boat kept in the water, I may not
        > know it until the foam is softened and waterlogged, allowing rot to
        > get a good start on the wood in contact with that soggy foam.
        >
        > Rick
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >     Not to worry. Here's from their FAQ
        >
        >     14. *Is this foam water resistant?*
        >
        >     Yes, but with the following caveat.
        >
        >     ...it should never be submerged in contact with water permanently.
        >     Over a period of years the water contact can begin to soften the
        >     foam and cause it to lose its closed-cell status.
        >
        >
        >     On Jan 29, 2010, at 7:40 AM, GBroadlick@...
        >     </mc/compose?to=GBroadlick@...> wrote:
        >>
        >>     This is what is coming
        >>     http://www.uscompos ites.com/ foam.html
        >>     <http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html>
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >



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