Re: [bolger] Re: box cutwater Tennessee?
From what I read he did replace the bottom, stem to stern but he missed on the 5/8" Ply and went to 1/2" ply due to the "Exposure 1"/"Exterior" issue. Reading that his Plywood supply did not have 5/8" Exterior on hand so he opted to go with 1/2". Not that it's a real issue that I can see. though.
Nope. Swing and a miss Chris. I'm right. He did the whole bottom, and documented it in his May and June 2008 blog. A brief scan of the text reminded me that although the plans now show 1/2" ply, he used 5/8" in his rebuild, replacing the 3/8" ply.
http://www.jimsboat s.com/1may08. htm#New%20AF4% 20Bottom% 201
http://home. earthlink. net/~je3mchlk/ data/#AF4% 20Bottom% 202
Don Schultz ( who was right for once. ;-D )
--- In bolger@yahoogroups. com, Chris Crandall <crandall@.. .> wrote:
> > Watch for the same thing from Jim Michalak, though I think he
> > provides very fair warning regarding what his designs are intended to
> > handle. Recently he rebuilt the bottom of his own prototype AF-4.
> > He went to a thicker bottom than his plans called for! Hmmmmmmm.
> DS: You might have mixed things up there. Jim replaced a bottom section
> in the stern hull due to rot. The patch might have been extra thick, but
> the rest of the bottom remained the same.
- I'm building a rather highly modified Idaho with a Clam Skiff bottom. The bottom is two layers of 1/2" MDO with three more layers 16" wide for the shoe. It is very stout.
I say highly modified because 4 cycle outboards are expensive and I had a junked Tennant sweeper on hand. It had a 33hp Kubota diesel with hydraulic drive. So the front 2/3's of my boat is Idaho and the rear 1/3 is Atkin Shoals Runner for the inboard installation. The flat bottom transition is more like Atkin Sand Piper. I retained the hydraulic drive and stretched the beam from 5' to 6' ( The Kubota and hydraulics being about 400 lbs. plus I needed the room to walk around it). AutoCad was a big help.
I have the hull completed and turned over. Engine installation is progressing.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "daschultz2000" <daschultz8275@...> wrote
> That said, you could double up the bottom thickness, and the bulkhead thickness, plus add a Work/Clam Skiff style 'shoe' (see Payson's Instant Boats site) to get the strength, and endure the ride. Devlin is big on beefy bulkheads, saying they contribute significantly to overall rigidity and even make construction easier because of the stiffness they add.
> This advice is worth just whatcha paid for it.
> Don Schultz
> --- In email@example.com, Joe Stromski <j.stromski@> wrote:
> > Have any Tennessee's been built using the "box cutwater" hull shown as
> > optional for the Sneak........
- from what I recall from MAIB, one of the commercial fishing boat designs he was working on (the smaller one) is based on the topaz hull, I'm not sure if it is the one that was built and launched in Gloucester recently, but I think so.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Joe Stromski <j.stromski@...> wrote:
> I'm very interested in building a Topaz. I'm seeking general info on the
> design. A previous thread mentioned it being available with a variety of
> different cabin treatments. My research has led me to Bruce Hallmann's
> Flickr pages, featuring the "Topaz Spyder", and I also see JourneyBoats
> online with the totally enclosed cabin version. Are these the two main
> variants? What about a bill of materials for the build? Does anyone know
> the cost of plans? Any other general info or opinions on the design?