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oarlock placement?

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  • bcd5194
    Hello to all, Looking for advice on oarlocks for my Waterman 16 canoe (I know, not a Bolger boat, hope you guys aren t offended). When building, didn t think
    Message 1 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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      Hello to all,
      Looking for advice on oarlocks for my "Waterman 16" canoe (I know, not
      a Bolger boat, hope you guys aren't offended). When
      building, didn't think about rowing, I mainly sail, but tired of
      lugging that battery
      and motor around, so tried setting up for rowing. Problem is, the
      center seat is about 5 inches too high for rowing; I could lower the
      seat (lots of work!), or I could raise the oarlocks (easy, but ugly!).
      I've posted pics in photo section titled "rowing?". Hopefully you can
      see in the pics where the old sidemount oarlocks were and where they
      need to be. Just need a "3rd eye" view. Maybe one of you knows a
      better way altogether.
      Cheers and thanks for any and all responses,
      Bradley
    • Bob Johnson
      You could try the longshank style oarlocks used on the Bolger Sweet Pea design for stand up rowing. Pete Culler used a similar pair on his Otter rowing
      Message 2 of 5 , Nov 1, 2008
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        You could try the longshank style oarlocks used on the Bolger Sweet Pea
        design for stand up rowing. Pete Culler used a similar pair on his
        Otter rowing batteau to raise and spread the oars. Dynamite Payson
        details how to make a pair of these from a regular pair of oarlocks and
        some copper tubing. With these types of oarlocks, instead of a
        standard socket, you have to fabricate a beefed up deep socket or a
        pair of supports aligned vertically to take the force of the long shaft.

        Bob
        ---
        On Saturday, November 1, 2008, at 03:22 PM, bcd5194 wrote:
        >
        > Hello to all,
        > Looking for advice on oarlocks for my "Waterman 16" canoe (I know, not
        > a Bolger boat, hope you guys aren't offended). When
        > building, didn't think about rowing, I mainly sail, but tired of
        > lugging that battery
        > and motor around, so tried setting up for rowing. Problem is, the
        > center seat is about 5 inches too high for rowing; I could lower the
        > seat (lots of work!), or I could raise the oarlocks (easy, but ugly!).
        > I've posted pics in photo section titled "rowing?". Hopefully you can
        > see in the pics where the old sidemount oarlocks were and where they
        > need to be. Just need a "3rd eye" view. Maybe one of you knows a
        > better way altogether.
        > Cheers and thanks for any and all responses,
        > Bradley
        >
      • bill shamblin
        i set a coleman canoe up to row by sitting on the floor on a low wooden crate and cushion totaling about 6 from floor. then i screwed two 4 2x4 blocks the
        Message 3 of 5 , Nov 2, 2008
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          i set a coleman canoe up to row by sitting on the floor on a low
          wooden crate and cushion totaling about 6" from floor. then i
          screwed two 4" 2x4" blocks the the gunnels and screwed a 5' long 2x4
          down crosswise on top of them. i drilled 1/2" holes in the ends of
          the 2x4 for the oarlocks which made a first class rowing ststion for
          homemade oars of bannister rail and screw-on plywood blades. it
          didnt matter if the rig was slightly off center fore and aft.
          sorry no picture.

          bill in nc

          --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "bcd5194" <reenbrad@...> wrote:
          >
          > Hello to all,
          > Looking for advice on oarlocks for my "Waterman 16" canoe (I know,
          not
          > a Bolger boat, hope you guys aren't offended). When
          > building, didn't think about rowing, I mainly sail, but tired of
          > lugging that battery
          > and motor around, so tried setting up for rowing. Problem is, the
          > center seat is about 5 inches too high for rowing; I could lower
          the
          > seat (lots of work!), or I could raise the oarlocks (easy, but
          ugly!).
          > I've posted pics in photo section titled "rowing?". Hopefully you
          can
          > see in the pics where the old sidemount oarlocks were and where
          they
          > need to be. Just need a "3rd eye" view. Maybe one of you knows a
          > better way altogether.
          > Cheers and thanks for any and all responses,
          > Bradley
          >
        • mark hamill
          http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~fassitt/canoe_mirror/m anning/manning.html This is an excellent article from Wooden Boat by Sam Manning that
          Message 4 of 5 , Nov 2, 2008
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            http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~fassitt/canoe_mirror/m
            anning/manning.html

            This is an excellent article from Wooden Boat by Sam Manning that will
            allow you to sail the canoe as well.

            The American Red Cross Canoeing
            New York, Doubleday. 1973

            This book has a homemade plan for a sailing and rowing rig. There are
            instructions fro determining oarlock and oar sizes. The sailrig is a
            lateen. I used this rig for years but will make a Manning rig for my
            next canoe.

            Both designs would probably work well on some canoelike Bolber designs.

            Mark
          • mark hamill
            For the Manning Article try Googling Sticks and String Canoe. It is not the complete article from Wooden Boat so you may want to look it up there. Manning, Sam
            Message 5 of 5 , Nov 2, 2008
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              For the Manning Article try Googling Sticks and String Canoe. It is not
              the complete article from Wooden Boat so you may want to look it up
              there.
              Manning, Sam F., author and illustrator: "Sticks and String," 22:33
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