Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: Building Queen Mab

Expand Messages
  • millhavenguy
    Hi Bruce, Thanks for your thoughts. I was able to get a copy of the MAIB article as well as the later one where John Hadden built Queen Mab in strip built
    Message 1 of 4 , Sep 21, 2008
    • 0 Attachment
      Hi Bruce,

      Thanks for your thoughts. I was able to get a copy of the MAIB
      article as well as the later one where John Hadden built Queen Mab in
      strip built method.

      I'm still leaning towards lapstrake although the comments of Dave T.
      were very interesting. Light does seem better. I'm thinking 3mm ply
      over 3/8ths frames. Let's face it, this is not a cargo hauler.

      David

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...> wrote:
      >
      > I was hoping that someone with explicit experience with Queen Mab
      > would jump in...?
      >
      > I haven't seen the plans for Queen Mab up close. The photolink
      shown
      > below is scanned from the MAIB article six years ago. It shows
      Queen
      > Mab, after it was cut free from the strongback.
      >
      > http://www.flickr.com/photos/hallman/2760785435/
      >
      > There are different methods of how to build lapstrake like this that
      > varies according to personal preference. I have done it twice,
      > learning new things each time.
      >
      > My advice is to leave the frames 'solid' during the straking. Only
      > after the straking would I then take a jigsaw and do the center
      > cutouts. Also, I would cut the plywood frames to a baseline, some
      > equal distance above the waterline. (Above, meaning higher up from
      > the kee, perhaps 4 inches above the sheerlinel, although the boat is
      > straked upside down.)
      >
      > Personally, I like installing the plywood frames on a flat 2x6
      > strongback, setting on sawhorses. I prefer using scrap wood
      > brace/struts cut at 45degrees, anchored in place using a narrow
      crown
      > air powered stapler. (Which has the advantage of being able to
      shoot
      > an anchor 'one handed' while the other hand holds the frame/brace
      > square in posistion.)
      >
      > Like this:
      > http://sports.webshots.com/photo/1360984644051159125megNfx
      >
      > Ultimately, the frames need to be aligned to make a fair curve for
      the
      > bent on keel strip. Part of the beauty of lapstrake construction
      like
      > this is that you have a lot of tolerance for fudge factors, and the
      > boat can still look nice, and work perfectly when things get out of
      > alignment by an inch, or more. That is a little mentioned 'gotcha'
      > about tack and tape panel boats is that the tolerance there is 1/2"
      or
      > so, while with lapstrakes the tolerance is vastly more forgiving.
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 5:06 PM, millhavenguy <drp122@...> wrote:
      > > Hi all,
      > >
      > > I purchased plans for Queen Mab from Mr. Bolger about a year ago
      and
      > > have been studying them with an eye to starting her this fall. I
      am
      > > having a bit of a problem getting started and am not sure quite
      how to
      > > place the frames vertically above the building frame.
      > >
      > > Could someone offer advice as to what reference point
      (waterline?) from
      > > the plans I should use? I am planing to build her in glued
      lapstrake.
      > >
      > > Also if anyone has any pictures of their build I would be very
      greatful
      > > for a link to them.
      > >
      > > Best wishes, David
      >
    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.