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Re: Fwd: Sacrificial Anode, OT

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  • graeme19121984
    Bill, there are sophisticated electronic devices avaiable that are designed to stop corrosion/oxidation in motor vehicles. I think some up-market Japanese etc
    Message 1 of 2 , Sep 19 1:23 AM
      Bill,

      there are sophisticated electronic devices avaiable that are designed
      to stop corrosion/oxidation in motor vehicles. I think some up-market
      Japanese etc bikes come with them as standard and some cars have them
      as an option.

      I believe they are an expensive add-on gadget, upwards of $1000 plus
      fitting, but do a fantastic job of keeping things "as new". They do
      work for shiny or lustrous metal finishes. I reckon for an expensive
      bike they'd be the go, as there's nothing as labour intensive to
      maintain in show condition.

      Graeme

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, BllFs6@... wrote:
      >
      >
      >
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      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: bllfs6@...
      > To: microcruising@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 4:00 am
      > Subject: Sacrificial Anode, OT
      >
      >
      >
      > Hi All...
      >
      > not really boat related, but given that boats often use sacrificial
      anodes, I figured this might be the place to ask...
      >
      > I have an old car, some areas the metal is fine, others it is
      deeply pitted/rusting.
      >
      > I gotten the good metal down to bare metal. The rust areas have
      been sanded down as much as I dare. Then a rust remover, naval jelly,
      has been used. After meticulous cleaning a rust convertor/inhibitor
      will be applied. Then a commerical rust encapsulating primer paint. I
      am trying very had to to this just right and am following the
      manufacturers instructions as best I can.
      >
      > Still, I am worried about that rust coming back enough to blister
      the paint in short order.
      >
      > During a bout of insomia....it occured to me......sacrificial
      anodes like on boats?
      >
      > What about on the inside (of the car)?on every discrete body panel
      I solder a copper wire to the steel.? Then I run that copper wire to
      a chunk of zinc from a boat supply place. Pound it out flat to
      increase the surface area to the air. Also run a ground wire from the
      zinc directly to the battery (or NOT?)
      >
      > Yes, I know in theory the whole car body is grounded, but in
      practice between the larger surface area, painted parts, rusty
      connecting bolts ......there probably are some residual currents
      being created.
      >
      > Would this possibly help any?
      >
      > Or at the the very least DEFINITELY NOT HURT?? Cause if so I am
      pretty tempted to do it..
      >
      > take care and thanks for any input!
      >
      >
      > Blll
      >
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