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Cartopper - rudder details and centreboard pivot

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  • andrew_kieren
    Hi, A mate and I have started to build a cartopper (one each) for our kids to learn to sail in. We have got as far as cutting out the panels from 1/4 marine
    Message 1 of 14 , Aug 11, 2008
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      Hi,

      A mate and I have started to build a cartopper (one each) for our kids
      to learn to sail in. We have got as far as cutting out the panels from
      1/4" marine ply and everything is proceeding to plan (touch marine ply).

      We have come across a few things we couldn't understand from the plans
      or from Dynamite Payson's instructions from Woodenboat Magazine.

      1) the rudder is 2 pieces of 1/4" ply laminated = 1/2" plus paint etc.
      thick. How wide do we make the "slot" between the rudder cheek
      pieces? The plans seem to show two 1/4" spacers between the cheek
      pieces - but that would make the slot 1/2" minus paint etc. Will the
      rudder blade still fit between the cheeks and pivot smoothly? Do we
      need to make the space larger? What have others used for a pivot bolt?

      2) what should we use for the centreboard (centerboard) pivot? I
      remember having a Heron once that just had a bolt with some rubber
      washers under the head and nut. It wasn't satisfactory because it
      leaked if it was too loose and you couldn't do it up too tight without
      squashing the casing. What have others done here?

      3) neither of us could understand the plan details of how the mast
      attaches to the foredeck, or indeed if it does. There is a detail in
      the plan of some complicated looking cleat. We would appreciate any
      ideas here too.

      Thanks in anticipation,

      Andrew

      PS. this is our second project, see our first project:
      http://www.boatbuilder.com.au/images/stories/mag/smiggy.pdf
    • Don Ellenbrook
      I have just joined this site...I m sure you will find the help you need...Best of luck with your boat...Don ... From: andrew_kieren
      Message 2 of 14 , Aug 11, 2008
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        I have just joined this site...I'm sure you will find the help you need...Best of luck with your boat...Don

        --- On Mon, 8/11/08, andrew_kieren <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:

        From: andrew_kieren <a.c.l.yen@...>
        Subject: [bolger] Cartopper - rudder details and centreboard pivot
        To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Monday, August 11, 2008, 8:43 PM






        Hi,

        A mate and I have started to build a cartopper (one each) for our kids
        to learn to sail in. We have got as far as cutting out the panels from
        1/4" marine ply and everything is proceeding to plan (touch marine ply).

        We have come across a few things we couldn't understand from the plans
        or from Dynamite Payson's instructions from Woodenboat Magazine.

        1) the rudder is 2 pieces of 1/4" ply laminated = 1/2" plus paint etc.
        thick. How wide do we make the "slot" between the rudder cheek
        pieces? The plans seem to show two 1/4" spacers between the cheek
        pieces - but that would make the slot 1/2" minus paint etc. Will the
        rudder blade still fit between the cheeks and pivot smoothly? Do we
        need to make the space larger? What have others used for a pivot bolt?

        2) what should we use for the centreboard (centerboard) pivot? I
        remember having a Heron once that just had a bolt with some rubber
        washers under the head and nut. It wasn't satisfactory because it
        leaked if it was too loose and you couldn't do it up too tight without
        squashing the casing. What have others done here?

        3) neither of us could understand the plan details of how the mast
        attaches to the foredeck, or indeed if it does. There is a detail in
        the plan of some complicated looking cleat. We would appreciate any
        ideas here too.

        Thanks in anticipation,

        Andrew

        PS. this is our second project, see our first project:
        http://www.boatbuil der.com.au/ images/stories/ mag/smiggy. pdf


















        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Alan J.
        G day Andrew I m terribly inaccurate with these things, so I d build the rudder blade first then build the stock to fit... John Welsford details a very good
        Message 3 of 14 , Aug 11, 2008
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          G'day Andrew

          I'm terribly inaccurate with these things, so I'd build the rudder blade
          first then build the stock to fit...

          John Welsford details a very good centreboard pivot system in the
          jwbuilders yahoogroup files area.

          No idea on the mast securing. I'd imagine the snotter would be led
          to the partner & tied off. This would also hold the mast in its step.

          cheers
          Alan J.


          ---- andrew_kieren <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
          >
          > 1) the rudder is 2 pieces of 1/4" ply laminated = 1/2" plus paint etc.
          > thick. How wide do we make the "slot" between the rudder cheek
          > pieces? The plans seem to show two 1/4" spacers between the cheek
          > pieces - but that would make the slot 1/2" minus paint etc. Will the
          > rudder blade still fit between the cheeks and pivot smoothly? Do we
          > need to make the space larger? What have others used for a pivot bolt?
          >
          > 2) what should we use for the centreboard (centerboard) pivot? I
        • andrew_kieren
          Thanks Alan for the tip about the JWbuilders group. I couldn t find what you were referring to - but I discovered all sorts of other interesting information
          Message 4 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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            Thanks Alan for the tip about the JWbuilders group. I couldn't find
            what you were referring to - but I discovered all sorts of other
            interesting information while looking!

            Andrew

            --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Alan J." <aaar@...> wrote:
            >
            > G'day Andrew
            >
            > I'm terribly inaccurate with these things, so I'd build the rudder
            blade
            > first then build the stock to fit...
            >
            > John Welsford details a very good centreboard pivot system in the
            > jwbuilders yahoogroup files area.
            >
            > No idea on the mast securing. I'd imagine the snotter would be led
            > to the partner & tied off. This would also hold the mast in its
            step.
            >
            > cheers
            > Alan J.
            >
            >
            > ---- andrew_kieren <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
            > >
            > > 1) the rudder is 2 pieces of 1/4" ply laminated = 1/2" plus paint
            etc.
            > > thick. How wide do we make the "slot" between the rudder cheek
            > > pieces? The plans seem to show two 1/4" spacers between the
            cheek
            > > pieces - but that would make the slot 1/2" minus paint etc. Will
            the
            > > rudder blade still fit between the cheeks and pivot smoothly? Do
            we
            > > need to make the space larger? What have others used for a pivot
            bolt?
            > >
            > > 2) what should we use for the centreboard (centerboard) pivot? I
            >
          • paulthober
            Answers: 1. The rudder blade should be snug in its slot. This is a kick-up rudder and it is friction as adjusted by the pivot bolt that keeps it down. Build it
            Message 5 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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              Answers:

              1. The rudder blade should be snug in its slot. This is a kick-up
              rudder and it is friction as adjusted by the pivot bolt that keeps it
              down. Build it just as shown.

              2. I used a short piece of stainless bar-stock and epoxied it in
              place. The center-board has a notch so that it can be removed.

              3. The mast does not attach to the foredeck. Just stick it in the hole
              and go sailing.

              Good luck, and don't forget to post some photos.

              Paul





              --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "andrew_kieren" <a.c.l.yen@...> wrote:
              >
              > Hi,
              >
              > A mate and I have started to build a cartopper (one each) for our kids
              > to learn to sail in. We have got as far as cutting out the panels from
              > 1/4" marine ply and everything is proceeding to plan (touch marine ply).
              >
              > We have come across a few things we couldn't understand from the plans
              > or from Dynamite Payson's instructions from Woodenboat Magazine.
              >
              > 1) the rudder is 2 pieces of 1/4" ply laminated = 1/2" plus paint etc.
              > thick. How wide do we make the "slot" between the rudder cheek
              > pieces? The plans seem to show two 1/4" spacers between the cheek
              > pieces - but that would make the slot 1/2" minus paint etc. Will the
              > rudder blade still fit between the cheeks and pivot smoothly? Do we
              > need to make the space larger? What have others used for a pivot bolt?
              >
              > 2) what should we use for the centreboard (centerboard) pivot? I
              > remember having a Heron once that just had a bolt with some rubber
              > washers under the head and nut. It wasn't satisfactory because it
              > leaked if it was too loose and you couldn't do it up too tight without
              > squashing the casing. What have others done here?
              >
              > 3) neither of us could understand the plan details of how the mast
              > attaches to the foredeck, or indeed if it does. There is a detail in
              > the plan of some complicated looking cleat. We would appreciate any
              > ideas here too.
              >
              > Thanks in anticipation,
              >
              > Andrew
              >
              > PS. this is our second project, see our first project:
              > http://www.boatbuilder.com.au/images/stories/mag/smiggy.pdf
              >
            • pvanderwaart
              ... IMHO, this is one of the places that the Bolger drive for simplicity crosses the line into degraded functionality. There are plenty of ways of rigging a
              Message 6 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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                > 1. The rudder blade should be snug in its slot.

                IMHO, this is one of the places that the Bolger drive for simplicity
                crosses the line into degraded functionality. There are plenty of ways
                of rigging a shock cord hold down.

                One of the big advantages is that you can launch off a beach with the
                rudder blade raised, then lower it by tugging on the shock cord and
                slipped the loop on the end over a hook. With the Bolger friction
                method, you either have to launch in deep water so the blade can be
                down (and it's a big blade), or you have to lean over the transom to
                push it down at a time when you want to be busy doing something else.
              • Alvan A Eames
                For the rudder blade on my Cartopper, I epoxied in a piece of formica which widened the slot enough to cope. For the centreboard pivot , I drilled a hole
                Message 7 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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                  For the rudder blade on my Cartopper, I epoxied in a piece of formica
                  which widened the slot enough to cope.

                  For the centreboard pivot , I drilled a hole through both sides, popped in
                  a short piece of stainledd steel, and then screwed a small plywood pad on
                  each side. The pivot bar was not fastened with glue or anything, and the
                  ply pads located it. The gasket used was a small piece of duck tape, on
                  each side.

                  I also lined the iside of the centreboard case with a few strips of Formica
                  in the interests of slipperyness.
                • nordski62
                  I m newbie to the group. Just finished Bolger s Canoe and getting ready to build the Cartopper over the Winter and have been interested in this conversation
                  Message 8 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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                    I'm newbie to the group. Just finished Bolger's Canoe and getting ready to build the
                    Cartopper over the Winter and have been interested in this conversation about the rudder.
                    Has anyone tried the kick up rudder as described in an article at duckworks? http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/kick-up/index.cfm It looks like a pretty
                    good idea. I've read a few posts in the archives about the Cartopper and some say that it isn't
                    the best sailer. The seat configuration makes the boat difficult to move around in and the
                    sprit rig is a handful. Any comments? Aaron
                  • Harry James
                    With amazing luck I found the link in files I was looking for, John built two cartoppers I think here is one in summer California Sacremento Delta wx, not
                    Message 9 of 14 , Aug 12, 2008
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                      With amazing luck I found the link in files I was looking for, John
                      built two cartoppers I think here is one in summer California Sacremento
                      Delta wx, not noted for calm weather.

                      *http://tinyurl.com/6ajpnj*

                      or http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Bolger%20Cartopper/

                      Its how summer sailing is supposed to be


                      HJ


                      nordski62 wrote:
                      > I'm newbie to the group. Just finished Bolger's Canoe and getting ready to build the
                      > Cartopper over the Winter and have been interested in this conversation about the rudder.
                      > Has anyone tried the kick up rudder as described in an article at duckworks? http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/articles/kick-up/index.cfm It looks like a pretty
                      > good idea. I've read a few posts in the archives about the Cartopper and some say that it isn't
                      > the best sailer. The seat configuration makes the boat difficult to move around in and the
                      > sprit rig is a handful. Any comments? Aaron
                      >
                      >
                      > ------------------------------------
                      >
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                      > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
                      > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
                      > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
                      > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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                      > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Yahoo! Groups Links
                      >
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                      >
                      >


                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                    • malcolmf
                      Andrew; Re: #3 I think that the mast simply goes through a hole in the deck, which acts as a partner, and on to the step at the bottom of the boat. Apparently
                      Message 10 of 14 , Aug 19, 2008
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                        Andrew;
                        Re: #3
                        I think that the mast simply goes through a hole in the deck, which acts
                        as a partner, and on to the step at the bottom of the boat.
                        Apparently the Cartopper can be rigged either with a leg o' mutton or a
                        sprit sail. In either event, there is a 'sprit' rigging involved:
                        the boom on the leg o' mutton or the pole on the sprit sail. In sprit
                        rigging, tensioning of the sail is provided by the snotter acting on the
                        end of a spar. All of the rigging is fixed to the mast - nothing
                        secures to the deck. A loop in the end of the snotter engages a notch
                        in the end of the pole, runs up to a ring/block/thumb or whatever on the
                        mast and then down to a cleat on the mast. There can be variants of
                        exactly how the lines run, but basically, that's it. For a sprit
                        controlled sail to function correctly, the mast must be free to turn.
                        If it didn't turn, the sprit & snotter would wind or unwind around the
                        mast on different tacks, giving different tension to the sail.
                        The study plans I saw showed something on the mast & I could not figure
                        out what it was. Something to do with rigging the snotter, I suspect.
                        If your plans include both the leg o' mutton & sprit sail, are the mast
                        fittings the same for both?
                        Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
                        Malcolm

                        andrew_kieren wrote:
                        >
                        >
                        >
                        > 3) neither of us could understand the plan details of how the mast
                        > attaches to the foredeck, or indeed if it does. There is a detail in
                        > the plan of some complicated looking cleat. We would appreciate any
                        > ideas here too.
                        >
                        > Thanks in anticipation,
                        >
                        > Andrew
                        >
                        > .
                        >
                        >
                        > No virus found in this incoming message.
                        > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
                        > Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.0/1602 - Release Date: 8/9/2008 1:22 PM
                        >



                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • nsimms
                        ... Is this really true? I m in the middle of building the leg o mutton rig for a modified Nymph, and the Nymph plans seem to show the (square) mast wedged
                        Message 11 of 14 , Aug 20, 2008
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                          --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, malcolmf <malcolmf@...> wrote:
                          >For a sprit
                          > controlled sail to function correctly, the mast must be free to turn.
                          > If it didn't turn, the sprit & snotter would wind or unwind around the
                          > mast on different tacks, giving different tension to the sail.

                          Is this really true? I'm in the middle of building the leg o'mutton
                          rig for a modified Nymph, and the Nymph plans seem to show the
                          (square) mast wedged into the longitudinal thwart (which acts as a
                          mast step), at the mast base.

                          So I made my mast step (I have no thwart due to my customizations)
                          such that the mast will be tapered/wedged in at the base and will not
                          turn. It will thus be 'suspended' and kept off the 1/4" ply bottom of
                          the boat. I haven't constructed the mast yet, so it's not too late to
                          change this if the mast absolutely needs to rotate.

                          Anybody else have experience with the small Bolger sprit rigs? Does
                          your mast rotate or not?

                          BTW, I was planning to make the snotter a la Dynamite's 'Instant
                          Boatbuilding' book, and as 'alternate' spec'd in the Ruben's Nymph
                          plans, with a thimble in a sling, through which the snotter passes.
                          IIRC, Dynamite says this method is less prone to binding.

                          Seems to me this ought to work freely enough not to require rotation
                          of the mast...

                          Neil S.

                          P.S. Looking more closely at the Ruben's Nymph plans, it appears the
                          mast on that design IS free to rotate, being round at the base, with
                          the weight of the mast bearing on the partner via the mast chocks. Of
                          course that's a bigger rig (59 sq ft vs 40 sq ft on Nymph). So now I'm
                          not so sure which way to go :(.
                        • Bill Kreamer
                          It s hard to picture the snotter causing the mast to rotate much, what with the friction at partners and step. Can someone with a big-ish snotter/sprit rig
                          Message 12 of 14 , Aug 20, 2008
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                            It's hard to picture the snotter causing the mast to rotate much, what with
                            the friction at partners and step. Can someone with a big-ish snotter/sprit
                            rig chime in? Maybe greased leathers in those areas would help. And a
                            retaining collar clamped around the mast under the partners? - Bill K



                            _____

                            From: bolger@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bolger@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
                            nsimms
                            Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 3:50 PM
                            To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: [bolger] Re: Cartopper - rudder details and centreboard pivot



                            --- In bolger@yahoogroups. <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com> com, malcolmf
                            <malcolmf@...> wrote:
                            >For a sprit
                            > controlled sail to function correctly, the mast must be free to turn.
                            > If it didn't turn, the sprit & snotter would wind or unwind around the
                            > mast on different tacks, giving different tension to the sail.

                            Is this really true? I'm in the middle of building the leg o'mutton
                            rig for a modified Nymph, and the Nymph plans seem to show the
                            (square) mast wedged into the longitudinal thwart (which acts as a
                            mast step), at the mast base.

                            So I made my mast step (I have no thwart due to my customizations)
                            such that the mast will be tapered/wedged in at the base and will not
                            turn. It will thus be 'suspended' and kept off the 1/4" ply bottom of
                            the boat. I haven't constructed the mast yet, so it's not too late to
                            change this if the mast absolutely needs to rotate.

                            Anybody else have experience with the small Bolger sprit rigs? Does
                            your mast rotate or not?

                            BTW, I was planning to make the snotter a la Dynamite's 'Instant
                            Boatbuilding' book, and as 'alternate' spec'd in the Ruben's Nymph
                            plans, with a thimble in a sling, through which the snotter passes.
                            IIRC, Dynamite says this method is less prone to binding.

                            Seems to me this ought to work freely enough not to require rotation
                            of the mast...

                            Neil S.

                            P.S. Looking more closely at the Ruben's Nymph plans, it appears the
                            mast on that design IS free to rotate, being round at the base, with
                            the weight of the mast bearing on the partner via the mast chocks. Of
                            course that's a bigger rig (59 sq ft vs 40 sq ft on Nymph). So now I'm
                            not so sure which way to go :(.





                            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                          • Mark Balogh
                            My Micro has two sprit sails with the mizzen very small and neither mast is intended to rotate. The extra length of the sprit that extends forward of the mast
                            Message 13 of 14 , Aug 21, 2008
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                              My Micro has two sprit sails with the mizzen very small and neither
                              mast is intended to rotate. The extra length of the sprit that
                              extends forward of the mast prevents the wrapping of the snotter from
                              being a problem in any normal range of sprit angles. You do not of
                              course want the sprit to wrap 360° around the mast.
                              Mark
                              On Aug 20, 2008, at 3:50 PM, nsimms wrote:

                              > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, malcolmf <malcolmf@...> wrote:
                              > >For a sprit
                              > > controlled sail to function correctly, the mast must be free to
                              > turn.
                              > > If it didn't turn, the sprit & snotter would wind or unwind
                              > around the
                              > > mast on different tacks, giving different tension to the sail.
                              >
                              > Is this really true? I'm in the middle of building the leg o'mutton
                              > rig for a modified Nymph, and the Nymph plans seem to show the
                              > (square) mast wedged into the longitudinal thwart (which acts as a
                              > mast step), at the mast base.
                              >
                              > So I made my mast step (I have no thwart due to my customizations)
                              > such that the mast will be tapered/wedged in at the base and will not
                              > turn. It will thus be 'suspended' and kept off the 1/4" ply bottom of
                              > the boat. I haven't constructed the mast yet, so it's not too late to
                              > change this if the mast absolutely needs to rotate.
                              >
                              > Anybody else have experience with the small Bolger sprit rigs? Does
                              > your mast rotate or not?
                              >
                              > BTW, I was planning to make the snotter a la Dynamite's 'Instant
                              > Boatbuilding' book, and as 'alternate' spec'd in the Ruben's Nymph
                              > plans, with a thimble in a sling, through which the snotter passes.
                              > IIRC, Dynamite says this method is less prone to binding.
                              >
                              > Seems to me this ought to work freely enough not to require rotation
                              > of the mast...
                              >
                              > Neil S.
                              >
                              > P.S. Looking more closely at the Ruben's Nymph plans, it appears the
                              > mast on that design IS free to rotate, being round at the base, with
                              > the weight of the mast bearing on the partner via the mast chocks. Of
                              > course that's a bigger rig (59 sq ft vs 40 sq ft on Nymph). So now I'm
                              > not so sure which way to go :(.
                              >
                              >
                              >



                              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                            • malcolmf
                              ... Bill Kreamer wrote It s hard to picture the snotter causing the mast to rotate much, what with the friction at partners and step. Can someone with a
                              Message 14 of 14 , Aug 29, 2008
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                                nsimms wrote:
                                >
                                > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com <mailto:bolger%40yahoogroups.com>,
                                > malcolmf <malcolmf@...> wrote:
                                > >For a sprit
                                > > controlled sail to function correctly, the mast must be free to turn.
                                > > If it didn't turn, the sprit & snotter would wind or unwind around the
                                > > mast on different tacks, giving different tension to the sail.
                                >
                                > Is this really true? I'm in the middle of building the leg o'mutton
                                > rig for a modified Nymph, and the Nymph plans seem to show the
                                > (square) mast wedged into the longitudinal thwart (which acts as a
                                > mast step), at the mast base.
                                >
                                > So I made my mast step (I have no thwart due to my customizations)
                                > such that the mast will be tapered/wedged in at the base and will not
                                > turn. It will thus be 'suspended' and kept off the 1/4" ply bottom of
                                > the boat. I haven't constructed the mast yet, so it's not too late to
                                > change this if the mast absolutely needs to rotate.
                                >
                                > Anybody else have experience with the small Bolger sprit rigs? Does
                                > your mast rotate or not?
                                >
                                > BTW, I was planning to make the snotter a la Dynamite's 'Instant
                                > Boatbuilding' book, and as 'alternate' spec'd in the Ruben's Nymph
                                > plans, with a thimble in a sling, through which the snotter passes.
                                > IIRC, Dynamite says this method is less prone to binding.
                                >
                                > Seems to me this ought to work freely enough not to require rotation
                                > of the mast...
                                >
                                > Neil S.
                                >
                                > P.S. Looking more closely at the Ruben's Nymph plans, it appears the
                                > mast on that design IS free to rotate, being round at the base, with
                                > the weight of the mast bearing on the partner via the mast chocks. Of
                                > course that's a bigger rig (59 sq ft vs 40 sq ft on Nymph). So now I'm
                                > not so sure which way to go :(.
                                >
                                >
                                > No virus found in this incoming message.
                                > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
                                > Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.5/1620 - Release Date: 8/19/2008 6:04 AM
                                >
                                Bill Kreamer wrote
                                It's hard to picture the snotter causing the mast to rotate much, what with
                                the friction at partners and step. Can someone with a big-ish snotter/sprit
                                rig chime in? Maybe greased leathers in those areas would help. And a
                                retaining collar clamped around the mast under the partners? - Bill K

                                Hi, all,
                                My boat is a 16 foot, 6' beam, FG Crawford Dory, weighing about 450
                                lbs. I have two sails that I use: a 77 ft sprit and a 99 ft sprit. The
                                mast is a round, glued up mast, about 3" diam, tapering aloft, no
                                leather, greased or otherwise. I have been sailing this boat for about
                                17 years now.
                                There are undoubtedly other ways to do it, but as far as I know the
                                standard rigging for a spritsail is all on the mast. I assure you that
                                the mast can rotate in its step. I scanned some passages out of John
                                Leather's "Spritsails and Lugsails" and offer some of his comments:

                                /"The hole in the mast thwart should not fit /[and here I lost some text
                                in scanning]/ chafing piece of greased leather seized or sewn around it
                                to allow the mast to rotate in the step, which is desirable with small
                                spritsails."
                                /

                                /"The sprit is set up by passing the tail of the snotter through the
                                score in the sprit heel and then through the thimble, forming a purchase
                                which is swigged-up until wrinkles are thrown in the sail from tack to
                                peak, as in setting a gaff sail."/

                                When the sprit pole is 'swigged-up', the tension (and it is
                                considerable) is set relative to the mast. Since the pole is offset to
                                one side of the mast, if the mast did not turn, tension would change
                                when tacking and the sail, pole et. al. go from side to side. In
                                tacking, the mast does not come about all at once, rather it walks its
                                way around under the influence of the snotter and the movements of the
                                boat. Turning the mast by hand is not difficult, but it does take both
                                hands. /

                                /

                                /"The spritsail, mast, sprit and rigging is best first tried laid out on
                                the ground. The clew should be high and the tack low. Spritsail masts
                                should have good rake as this seems to help the sails set well and
                                usually improves the appearance of the rig in a small boat. Many small
                                spritsail boats had adjustable rake on at least the mainmast."
                                "The thumb cleat for the tack might be fitted just above the upper mast
                                support, as low as possible, to allow adjustment of the tack position.
                                The thumb cleat for the snotter is best positioned on the ground with
                                the sprit 'peaked-up' at its correct angle to set the sail. This cleat
                                should be as low as possible. The robands should be tied to the mast,
                                not too tightly."/
                                /"When everything seems satisfactory on the ground, the sail can be
                                furled for carrying or stowage by taking the sprit out of the snotter,
                                placing it parallel to the mast and, keeping the head of the sail taut,
                                throw the clew over the sprit, then roll the sail and sprit up to the
                                mast, maintaining an upward pressure on the peak so it will furl
                                tightly. The loose snotter is passed around the sail and mast and then a
                                clove hitch is passed around all. The sheet is coiled and made fast to
                                the tail of the snotter. The rig is then ready to be carried, stepped or
                                stored."/
                                /"A long narrow boat will probably be best with a rig of two or more
                                spritsails. It is usually best to make these sails of different areas,
                                with the larger as the foresail and the smaller the mizzen in a two
                                masted rig; or the mainsail larger than the foresail, and the mizzen
                                smallest in a three masted rig. If two masted, the full rig can be
                                carried in light winds and in stronger breezes the foresail can be
                                reefed. If the wind strengthens, the mizzen might be furled and
                                unstepped and the foresail be shifted slightly aft in a second step, to
                                preserve sail balance. This step can usefully give increased rake to the
                                mast. In strong winds the mizzen, only, could be set up, probably in the
                                same step and well raked. This reduction of sail area and a freshening
                                wind will usually require the centreboard to be lowered further. In the
                                now uncommon three masted rig the mainmast and sail is the first to be
                                furled or struck, leaving the fore and mizzen as a useful area for
                                stronger winds. If wind strength increases these are reefed or shifted
                                for the two sail rig."/

                                These passages show that the entire sprit rig can be set up outside of
                                the boat and easily be picked up and shifted about. I cannot remember
                                where I read it, but I have heard that just chucking the entire rig over
                                the side (but not losing hold of the sheet) makes a wonderful sea anchor.


                                /"When beaching a spritsail boat in a light onshore wind the sails can
                                be allowed to rotate to blow out forward; this is possible with the
                                rotary masts but undesirable in other conditions as retrieving the
                                sheets and retrimming the sails would be difficult afloat.
                                Alternatively, in a two masted spritsail boat, the mizzen is handed and
                                the foresail is brailed up as she runs for the shore."/


                                This is a step that I commonly take. I agree completely about
                                difficulty in retrieving the sheets and retrimming sails when afloat,
                                but it is a long way from being impossible. In gentle weather it is OK
                                just to unsnap the sheet from the sail, allowing it to blow out forward,
                                while you catch a fish, eat lunch or attend to other business. With a
                                bit more wind, getting all together again can be a chore and something
                                that I would not care to recommend trying in a tender boat. Care does
                                need to be taken not to get the sail wrapped around the mast.
                                /
                                "A sizeable sprit rig is not ideal for single-handed sailing, as to go
                                forward and unship the sprit from the snotter by hand is not easy if the
                                sprit is to leeward of the sail, and it may be difficult if it is to
                                windward, as once the heel is out of the snotter it tends to drive down
                                and could pierce the bottom of the boat in extreme conditions, when it
                                is best to direct the heel overboard."/
                                Ya' gotta be careful. And I agree completely with him here. I
                                sometimes think that a lug sail would be easier to use. All you have to
                                do is loose the halyard, and if the spar doesn't brain you on its way
                                down, the sail is in and you can do the housekeeping later. With the
                                sprit, you have togo to the mast, undo the snotter; the sprit heel
                                going overboard gives you more room and makes life easier. Then while
                                keeping the peak of the sail in check, get the pole inboard, then roll
                                the sail up to the mast. To furl I use a line for this that has an eye
                                in one end. Run the line around the mast/sail, put the bitter end
                                through the eye and spiral the line down the sail and secure it. If
                                everything is calm I use marline hitches, otherwise just spiral it down.
                                Then you can take the mast down. I grew tired of lifting the mast/sail
                                over the partner, so I installed a pair of hinges, replacing one if the
                                pins with a cotter pin, then cut the partner in half so I could hinge
                                the partner open. It helps.
                                All of this being said, I really don't know what ground rules apply for
                                a leg o' mutton rig with sprit boom. And I am sure that many sprit rigs
                                have worked well without a rotating mast. Good luck on whatever you
                                choose to do. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
                                Calm Seas & A Prosperous Voyage
                                Malcolm





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