Re: Light schooner
With the bulkheads you dont need fillit with the logs. I filleted
mine because I used PL premium for side to bulkhead glue. I fillited
for added security.
Concerning buttblock for the sides, if I had it to do again I would
use Dynamite's method of taped joints. I had to do alot of fairing to
get my sides looking presentable.
I would definitely build the boat with scarfed logs. They are an
intrical part of the boat design. That is alot of sail for such a
light boat. The stress without the logs may tear the boat apart with
just stich and glue method.
--- In email@example.com, "Jim Kessler" <jkess777@...> wrote:
> I would also suggest not making limber holes in your bulkheads but
> rather leave them watertight and place dexkplates in them instead.
> talked to Tim Fatchen about this and he mentioned it was a very
> He also mentions to add water ballast to the boat by usinf 2.5"
> capping them and filling with water. Then placing them at the chine
> the foward and aft cockpits. Great way to add ballast. The watter
> the pipes in the boat becomes ballast wieght but becomes nuetral in
> I'll be rigging my boat stock and as a solo.
> Jim Kessler
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Bill Wallace <wwostar@> wrote:
> > I sam sitting in the moaning chair thinking about chine logs
> > clamps for the light schooner I am about to build, not at all
> > the number of scarph joints I will have to make to get those long
> > What think you of butt blocks?
> > What think you of having them not connected at all, just
> end to end?
> > What think you of having the notches in the frames very
> > providing limber holes, not attched to the sheet log at all?
> > What think you of no chine logs at all, just a big fillet covered
> > glass tape?
> > Bill Wallace in Houston