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Re: [bolger] OT:Fibreglass Repair: Leeboards: Kayak Sail Rigs

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  • John and Kathy Trussell
    Folbot made a number of kits. In general, they may be divided into vinyl cover over frame and sheet plywood boats; I built one of the skin on frame boats
    Message 1 of 2 , Jul 26, 2006
      Folbot made a number of kits. In general, they may be divided into vinyl cover over frame and sheet plywood boats; I built one of the skin on frame boats ("Big Glider") in an upstairs bedroom with the mistaken belief that I could get it down the stairwell. It wasn't too hard to dissassemble a window and lower it to the ground. I'm not sure which kind you have. Give me some more info and I'll see what I can offer.

      John T
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Tod German
      To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Monday, July 24, 2006 9:27 PM
      Subject: [bolger] OT:Fibreglass Repair: Leeboards: Kayak Sail Rigs

      I got the two floatation bags mail order for my Sabot nutshell sail
      pram but have not figured out how to lash them under the thwarts yet.
      Since my knots are still not good (I was in the Army, not the Navy) I
      will buy nylon strapping. The bags were pricey at $33 USD each, plus
      shipping but I hope they do the job.

      My other new (to me) boat, the antique plywood Folbot kit boat leaked
      like a sieve but did not sink when I ventured out to Folsom Lake. I
      need advice on re-glassing the cracked tape and glass. I have an
      orbital sander (I'm dangerous... dangerous), must I remove ALL the old
      glass, tape and paint and get to bare plywood, or can I glass over the

      Can I get this epoxy and glass tape at, like, Home Depot or Lowes or
      Ace? Should I tape and glass the inside seams as well? Would spraying
      polyurethane on the inside also help with the leaks? Can I paint the
      outside with latex house paint when I get the seams sealed?

      The boat weighed about 100 lbs. when I bought it and put it on top of
      my van and it weighed about 200 lbs. when I took it out of the water
      at the end of the day.

      It paddled very nicely in spite of the water ballast and turned well,
      went straight, took the ski boat wakes nicely- the front deck and
      splash guard doing their job. Coordinating the paddle strokes with my
      buddy was hard to do. I see why the old paddles that came with the
      kayak are so chipped on the edges- rookie paddlers like us slamming
      them together.

      I am looking at the sail rigs for canoes and kayaks on the web to
      maybe sail the boat. Lots out there but I am sort of aiming for
      minimal materials costs for this $100 USD boat.

      It is the old Folbot kit from the 70s or 80s with the one big cockpit
      hole amid ship with two seat backs and ply-covered foredeck and and
      back deck. It is heavy, hell for stout and stable- important for me
      because canoes' tippiness always made me uneasy.

      Lots of the clamp-on aux sail rigs have two lee boards while others
      claim one lee board does just as well. Opinions on that?

      I just read a very good article by Jim Michalak regarding the
      placement of the mast, lee board etc. for a Bobsboat sail conversion
      so I will look at that again if I put a sail on this boat.

      I already have a bunch of visqueen, is it possible to make poly sails
      using 4' rolls of plastic? Can duct tape be substituted for double
      sided tape for sail building?

      What's the deal with the rudder? For max simplicity/cheapness, do I
      want a steering oar, rudder kit (hand or foot), no rudder [suck it
      down, ya wuss, why in my day...]- just kidding.

      Anybody use 'whacky noodles' for extra floatation? They float well and
      are cheap.


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