Re: [bolger] Re: SIngleHander Schooner boom and gaff questions
- On Thu, 2006-05-04 at 05:30 +0000, Susan Davis wrote:
> > There's an inset on the sail plan page that shows "end of Booms".OK, so both outhaul for the sail and the topping lift go through the
> > It shows a notch in the end vertically and a dowel rod through the
> > boom horizontally.
> You cleat the outhaul and topping lift to this.
notch and then tie off on one side of the dowel rod or the other. Got
>Got it thanks.
> > According to item #2 the topping lift passes through the notch to
> > the mast, I assume being tied to the dowel rod. I assume the sail
> > does not tie off through the notch.
> That's what I did. It's helpful to be able to adjust the foot
> tension, and cleating it to the topping lift cleat gives you the
> ability to do that.
>The sail plan didn't show any grommet holes along the foot of the sail
> > So, is the tack of the sail laced through the hole in the front of
> > the boom and then the clew tied around the dowel rod somehow,
> > leaving everything in between loose fitted?
> No. You do as you describe, and additionally bend the foot of the
> sail onto the boom by tying loops of line (which go through grommets
> in the foot) around the boom.
or the head. Would you say three along the bottom of the foresail and 4
along the bottom of the main sail be adequate ? I assume three or so
along the head tied to the gaffs would be reasonable as well.
> > I assume the the throat of the sail ties to the hole under the jaws
> > of the gaff.
> > But, I don't see anything in the diagram about how the head
> > of the sail can attach to the end of the gaff? Should there be a
> > hole or a dowel rod there ?
> A hole.
> > 2. Any advantage for the jaw that sits on top of the booms and
> > gaffs to be solid wood over plywood?
> No. Mine are plywood.
>Yep, you are right, I missed it in items #3 & #4:
> > 3. The lines drawn representing the peak and throat halyards just
> > go out to the gaff and touch it and stop. Are there supposed to be
> > holes in specific locations for the peak and throat halyards to tie
> > through
> Yes. In fact, I think the instructions mention this, and give a
> proposed distance from the end of the spar. If not, you can take the
> measurement off the plan.
3. Main peak halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff around gaff
18" below peak.
4. Main throat halyard 1/4" by 26': standing end around gaff above jaws.
but it sound like your experience implies holes are best. Thanks.
> > I guess by tying them you could slightly change their positions if
> > need be.
> Just tying them won't work -- the halyard will slip on the spar. You
> need to drill a hole.
Chris Kottaridis (chriskot@...)