Re: [bolger] Re: Birdwatcher II
----- Original Message -----
From: "dnjost" <davidjost@...>
> The rest is in the details: Mast (haven't
> quite figured that one out yet),
If it's the same mast as as shown on the original BW, the it's a puzzler.
Cutting the long vee's in the center plug is doable, but how are you
supposed to insure those skinny points are glued on the inside of the main
I'd build either a standard box section or a birdsmouth and be done with it.
- John -
That about sums it up...the puzzler. It appears to be series of
concentric box spars that are glued one inside the other and then
faired smooth. Will investigate a little bit on this as I really want
to build to plans and not deviate unless absolutely essential.
I suppose this would allow the use of shorter pieces of good stock and
avoid the hassle of trying to scarf and find straight pieces w/o
blemishes, and result it scarfed sections through the fairing process.
It actually seems reasonable. No need for the expense of sitka spruce!
Bruce's idea of doing a model first is quite rational.
Thanks to all for the support and ideas.
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "dnjost" <davidjost@...> wrote:
> Ok -
> It does include a commentary that outlines the thought process behind
> the design and what it hopes to accomplish. a well detailed building
> key. and 5 sheets of blueprints in both metric and
> Dodecametric/fractional system (feet/inches/eighths) ;-)
When I receieved my BW2 plans,I found it very helpful to go through
the key and refer to the plans sheets at the same time, several times
over before doing anything. Since there is no "building sequence" per
se, I thought I'd offer my 2 cents on what worked and what I'd do
differently "next time".
I laid out my side panels with butt blocks and installed all interior
framing while flat on the floor. I then flipped the panels and
preglassed using Garth Batista's technique(see Jim Michalak's web
page, back issues) of rolling a plasitc film on top of the wet
epoxy/glass.He used Mylar and got an almost mirror finish. I used
sheet plastic and got a very smooth surface that reduced my fairing to
almost nothing. If you're using top quality materials, like Bob Larkin
is, you may want to skip the exterior glass on the topsides.I used ACX
ply. These things worked well.
I also pre-cut the motor cut-out on the starboard side while the
panels were flat.Seemed like a good idea at the time. This resulted in
an unfair bend in that area when the sides were sprung around the
frames. It took some wrestling to correct, and I'd wait until the hull
is together and perhaps the deck is on before cutting it out "next time".
After the sides were on the frames I laminated the sheer clamps and
chine logs. I cut my chine logs flush with the inner stem and stern
posts, before I added the exterior stem and stern caps. Because of
aesthetics and perhaps strength, I'd let the chine logs flow into the
exterior pieces "next time", like Bob Larkin did.
The plans are vague about the sheer clamp/window transition to the aft
deck, but Bob seems to have figured it out quite nicely. I'm not that
Finally, if I were to do it again I would take Bruce's advice and
build a model first.........like Bob did!
Bottom line, build like Bob Larkin. He's thoughtful and meticulous in
building, and generous and kind with advice.
My pics are in bolger4photos.
Best wishes in your building adventure,
- David -
thanks for the advice, and encouragement.
I finally had a couple of hours to sit with the plans, scale rule,
and building key and had some fun just figuring out how it all goes
Having built Micro, the sequence appears to be similar without the
bother of the lead keel assembly. I am sure putting the 109lb board
in place will be no easy task, but I plan to employ slave labor here
(14 year old son).
The mast does appear to be as Bruce described as having the tapered
plug on the top 6' of mast. This appears to be the most challenging
carpentry. I may do up a birdsmouth or go with the standard box spar
as described in Chapelle's book. I am tempted to rabbet out some
2x4's glue them up, taper, and plug em' but I can see where the
orientation of the wood in the 4 sided box will add strength while
reducing weight aloft.
The good news is that it really is built in a sort of instant boat
fashion. (and my basement is exactly 25' long with huge removeable