Re: Question on glassing
- Hi Jim
> One small question on your technique. When you put down the first,sealing coat, how long d you wait for the later coat with the glass?
Do you wait until the epoxy is thoroughly cured, then sand for
mechanical key, or do you put the fabric on with the epoxy still
green and soft?
I wait for the first coat to cure and then lightly sand it. Normally
I fill screw holes and tape seams, then sand the tape edges and clean
up the filled holes before putting the sealing coat on. If I had a
helper, I'd think about putting the cloth on while the sealing coat
is still green, but since I work alone, it's much easier to position
the cloth on a smooth, "dry" hull.
BTW, a sealing coat helps with taping seams, too, but I've found that
I still need to recoat after grinding down the tape edges. So lately
I've just been dunking the tape in epoxy prior to applying it on the
bare plywood seams, and this puts enough glue on to stick the tape
without endless brushing or squegeeing. It's messy, though.
- Hi John,
What weight cloth are you using? For a cartopper and most other
smaller boats, 4 oz. is about all one requires. Heavier cloth will
take more epoxy to fill the weave, add more weight and cost and not
give much in return in the way of strength or delamination ability.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, catboat15@a... wrote:
> If the weather ever warms up here again I want to finish with the
> cloth and epoxy on my Car topper. Right now I see a few small
blisters here and
> there where the glass is not bonded to the wood. Asking for
> those spots? Sand them down and just put on the second and third
coat of epoxy?
> Or the most work, cut them out and patch in a piece of cloth? The
> make more joints of course and require more work to level off the
> On previous glassing jobs I never could seem to fill the weave of
> Should I add some filler powder to the second and third coats to
> texture of the cloth?
> TIA from you experienced boat builders
> John Meacham
> High desert of California
> Bolger Cartopper.
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- Couple of points of response:
1 -- System 3 is very clear that, although they own
Industrial Formulators which makes the Cold Cure
brands, they do not guarantee chemical compatibility
and strongly advise curing and depending on mechanical
2 -- I've encountered extreme amounts of amine blush
when temperatures get too low. I have found it easy
to remove with water while still at the green stage
(followed by a superficial scraping). The partly
cured System 3 has not been noticeably affected by
this treatment. If it gets water on it TOO early it
gets white on the surface but that will disappear in
--- Nels <arvent@...> wrote:
> Industrial Formulators Canada has a free PDF firmatother products especially
> manual available . . . I expect it could apply to
> System Threeand they say
> who now owns IFC . . .
> >(Nels wrote) " I generally use System Three epoxy
> that you can get a chemical bond, up to 72 hoursafter it sets. I
> usually don't have any blush etc.__________________________________
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