Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [bolger] Re: Trolling motor for Micro Take 3

Expand Messages
  • Wesley Cox
    All good points. Thanks, Peter.
    Message 1 of 75 , Dec 1, 2005
    • 0 Attachment
      All good points. Thanks, Peter.

      pvanderwaart wrote:

      >>Would
      >>you care to comment on the stability of the open canoe type
      >>Toto?
      >>
      >>
      >
      >Pardon me for joining the discussion in the middle.
      >
      >In boats small enough to carry, seaworthiness is based in the
      >operator, not in the vessel. Even a sea kayak which is effectively
      >immune from taking on water is dependent on the crew to keep the boat
      >upright, or to recover from a roll. Training and judgement about when
      >to stay ashore are more important the the differences from one boat
      >to another.
      >
      >Stability depends very much on the crew. If he is sitting on the
      >bottom of the boat, it is much more stable than if he is sitting up a
      >few inches on some kind of seat. That said, I wonder if stability is
      >the most important factor. In any kind sea, the boat can be endangered
      >as much by spray and splash as by the threat of outright roll.
      >
      >Windsurfers go out in awful conditions, capize all the time, and most
      >get back undrowned. You should emulate the factors that make it
      >possible, which include 1) floatation for the boat so it can't swamp,
      >2) a boat that can be re-entered after a capsize, 3) flotation for
      >the crew (which saves a lot of energy even if the crew can swim), 4)
      >attachment of the crew to the boat so they won't get separated, 5) wet
      >or dry suit as appropriate to prevent hypothermia, 6) ability to
      >control the rig so it doesn't prevent successful righting after a
      >capsize. There may be other factors I have not mentioned.
      >
      >Peter
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >Bolger rules!!!
      >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
      >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
      >- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
      >- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
    • Lincoln Ross
      I m not sure the quoting is still accurate in this thread. In any case, I m sure the Dynel is good if the issue is just abrasion. However, I think at the
      Message 75 of 75 , Apr 5, 2006
      • 0 Attachment
        I'm not sure the quoting is still accurate in this thread. In any
        case, I'm sure the Dynel is good if the issue is just abrasion.
        However, I think at the partners, and perhaps elsewhere, localized
        crushing is part of the picture. In that case I'm guessing fiberglass
        would remain superior. Not that you couldn't have a bit of dynel over it.
        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
        >
        > One layer of dynel is 6 times as abrasion resistance as 1 layer of 6oz
        > glass per some tests in Boatbuilder several years ago.
        >
        > HJ
        >
        > pvanderwaart wrote:
        > >> What about armoring the mast with fiberglass and epoxy at the
        > >>
        > > partners and other wear
        > >
        > >> points? Or wrapping it with some other thing to prevent wear?
        snip
      Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.