Re: Trolling motor for Micro Take 3
> WouldPardon me for joining the discussion in the middle.
> you care to comment on the stability of the open canoe type
In boats small enough to carry, seaworthiness is based in the
operator, not in the vessel. Even a sea kayak which is effectively
immune from taking on water is dependent on the crew to keep the boat
upright, or to recover from a roll. Training and judgement about when
to stay ashore are more important the the differences from one boat
Stability depends very much on the crew. If he is sitting on the
bottom of the boat, it is much more stable than if he is sitting up a
few inches on some kind of seat. That said, I wonder if stability is
the most important factor. In any kind sea, the boat can be endangered
as much by spray and splash as by the threat of outright roll.
Windsurfers go out in awful conditions, capize all the time, and most
get back undrowned. You should emulate the factors that make it
possible, which include 1) floatation for the boat so it can't swamp,
2) a boat that can be re-entered after a capsize, 3) flotation for
the crew (which saves a lot of energy even if the crew can swim), 4)
attachment of the crew to the boat so they won't get separated, 5) wet
or dry suit as appropriate to prevent hypothermia, 6) ability to
control the rig so it doesn't prevent successful righting after a
capsize. There may be other factors I have not mentioned.
- I'm not sure the quoting is still accurate in this thread. In any
case, I'm sure the Dynel is good if the issue is just abrasion.
However, I think at the partners, and perhaps elsewhere, localized
crushing is part of the picture. In that case I'm guessing fiberglass
would remain superior. Not that you couldn't have a bit of dynel over it.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
> One layer of dynel is 6 times as abrasion resistance as 1 layer of 6oz
> glass per some tests in Boatbuilder several years ago.
> pvanderwaart wrote:
> >> What about armoring the mast with fiberglass and epoxy at the
> > partners and other wear
> >> points? Or wrapping it with some other thing to prevent wear?