Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

[bolger] Re: Square Scarfs

Expand Messages
  • Richard
    ... I do this: epoxy prime pieces to be joined. (I used 1:1 thinned 50% with acetone) lay down piece of particle board at least 12 inches wide cover with wax
    Message 1 of 11 , Oct 6, 1999
    • 0 Attachment
      jeff@... wrote:

      > The easiest way I have found to build is to cover a 2x6 with plastic
      > wrap and screw the two sheets down tight to form a smooth seam, then
      > using thickened epoxy, coat and fill the seam except where the screws
      > are placed. The next day when set, remove the screws and finish one
      > side by sanding a slight hollow in the seam and lay in the tape. When
      > set, flip and do the other side.
      >
      > This all takes 3 days to do properly so it is slower but does work
      > nicely.
      >

      I do this:
      epoxy prime pieces to be joined. (I used 1:1 thinned 50% with acetone)
      lay down piece of particle board at least 12 inches wide
      cover with wax paper
      wet where joint will be with epoxy, lay glass in epoxy, wet glass out
      attach one of the pieces to be spiced to particle board, centered over
      glass, tack in place
      apply wood flower or wheat flour thickened epoxy to edge
      lay other piece to be spliced on glass and push into thickened filler, tack
      in place
      epoxy and glass top side
      appy wax paper
      apply 12 wide piece of particle board, tack in place

      repeat if you have more pieces

      hold long boards up with scrap wood
      apply weight, lots of weight, evenly distributed

      This is pure Payson and Carnell. Works very well, and Dave has done testing
      that showes that very narrow strips of tape, 2 to 3 inches, is still
      stronger than the wood.

      I have done four joints at once, takes 24 hours to cure good. If you are
      going to put lots of stress on it soon, you might give a day or so to set up
      harder.



      >
      > When I stiched my boat together, I used this method also. I placed my
      > stiches about 2" apart, aligned the boat and filled between the stiches
      > with thickened epoxy, when set I cut the stiches out and removed. At
      > this point the boat is held together by the epoxy so don't try moving
      > anything, then fill in the gaps left by the stiches with thickened
      > epoxy. After this, finish the seams normally.
      >
      > This way I have no stiches buried in the epoxy. It is slower but
      > easier. Just remember to remove the excess epoxy that may be squeezed
      > out on the inside as you do this, or suffer the sanding job later.
      >

      I do exactly the same thing, mainly so I can make reasonably sized fillets
      without the wires getting in the way.
    • GHC
      No, the bottom of the step of the Sneakeasy is 3/4 , and the rest of the bottom is 1/2 . The sides were supposed to be 3/8 , but I accidentally used used 1/4
      Message 2 of 11 , Oct 6, 1999
      • 0 Attachment
        No, the bottom of the step of the Sneakeasy is 3/4", and the rest of the
        bottom is 1/2". The sides were supposed to be 3/8", but I accidentally
        used used 1/4" for some reason - could be that I blew up the plans from the
        book...

        I built the boat to run down the Arkansas River navigation channel. When
        the water runs (and I mean 12-14 knots), I've seen plenty of trees, cows,
        and once even a tractor-trailor and a Winnebago. That's tough on your bottom.

        Damming the Arkansas was the biggest Corps project ever in the 70's - Will
        Rogers said it could never be done.

        Curious you asked about the fish - no - they don't carry (yet), but WE do
        fish with guns in Oklahoma...

        Gregg


        At 06:46 PM 10/5/1999 -0400, you wrote:
        >To Gregg:
        >
        >Did you use any type of formula to determine how far back to make the lap?
        >
        >A 3/4 in. bottom on a Sneakeasy? Do the fish in Oklahoma lakes have
        >shotguns? Don't you think you should write an article for WoodenBoat about
        >"Square Scarfs"? Really, if this works, you'd almost be better off having
        >two of the lap joints in one of bolger's 16' boats and avoid the ugliness of
        >a buttstrap all together.
        >
        >Thanks Gregg
        >
        >To Michael:
        >
        >So you ended up using the "fiberglass buttstrap" I've seen described in your
        >sides? That looks like it would finish off nice and clean.
        >
        >One thing I keep staring at the plans and the key (and Payson's book)
        >without figuring out. The miships mold (temporary) is to be positioned on
        >the line scibed on the sides during building. Does this mean directly
        >centered? should the mold be aft of the line of forward of it?
        >
        >thanks for your help Michael.
        >
        >Robert Lundy
        >St. Petersburg, Fla.
        >
        >
        >> -----Original Message-----
        >> From: GHC [mailto:ghartc@...]
        >> Sent: 05 October, 1999 6:13 PM
        >> To: bolger@egroups.com
        >> Subject: [bolger] Re: Square Scarfs
        >>
        >>
        >> That's just what I did on the 3/4" bottom of my sneakeasy, with no
        >> complaint...
        >>
        >> Gregg Carlson
        >>
        >> At 03:26 PM 10/4/1999 -0400, you wrote:
        >> > "" bottom in the plan (but I would have to cough up for an extra
        >> >sheet of plywood), I've been trying to think of a better way to
        >> make my two
        >> >8' sheets one long sheetwithout using a buttstrap plywood
        >> scarfed in
        >> >this manner. Comments from any more experienced woodworkers are most
        >> >appreciated. Ha, Ha. & Amy Lundy
        >> >St. Petersburg, Fla.
        >> > Click Here! eGroups.com home:
        >> http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
        >> > www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
        >> >
        >>
        >>
        >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
        >>
        >> eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
        >> http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >>
        >
        >
        >------------------------------------------------------------------------
        >
        >eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
        >http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
      • Michael Jennings
        ... In the end yes, but it required quite a few cycles of reapplying thickened epoxy and sanding. On the inside I gave up and just sanded a little. ... I
        Message 3 of 11 , Oct 8, 1999
        • 0 Attachment
          Robert N. Lundy wrote:

          > To Michael:
          >
          > So you ended up using the "fiberglass buttstrap" I've seen described in your
          > sides? That looks like it would finish off nice and clean.

          In the end yes, but it required quite a few cycles of reapplying
          thickened epoxy and sanding. On the inside I gave up and just sanded a
          little.
          >
          > One thing I keep staring at the plans and the key (and Payson's book)
          > without figuring out. The miships mold (temporary) is to be positioned on
          > the line scibed on the sides during building. Does this mean directly
          > centered? should the mold be aft of the line of forward of it?
          >

          I believe I centered the plywood portion of the mold on the lines as
          best I could. I don't think its makes much difference with the 1/4"
          ply. It was tricky holding the forward and aft molds close to the lines
          while driving screws in to hold them in place.

          > thanks for your help Michael.
          >
          > Robert Lundy
          > St. Petersburg, Fla.
          >
          > > -----Original Message-----
          > > From: GHC [mailto:ghartc@...]
          > > Sent: 05 October, 1999 6:13 PM
          > > To: bolger@egroups.com
          > > Subject: [bolger] Re: Square Scarfs
          > >
          > >
          > > That's just what I did on the 3/4" bottom of my sneakeasy, with no
          > > complaint...
          > >
          > > Gregg Carlson
          > >
          > > At 03:26 PM 10/4/1999 -0400, you wrote:
          > > > "" bottom in the plan (but I would have to cough up for an extra
          > > >sheet of plywood), I've been trying to think of a better way to
          > > make my two
          > > >8' sheets one long sheetwithout using a buttstrap plywood
          > > scarfed in
          > > >this manner. Comments from any more experienced woodworkers are most
          > > >appreciated. Ha, Ha. & Amy Lundy
          > > >St. Petersburg, Fla.
          > > > Click Here! eGroups.com home:
          > > http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
          > > > www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
          > > >
          > >
          > >
          > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
          > >
          > > eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
          > > http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
          > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
          >
          > eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
          > http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
        Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.