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Re: Asking for advice,

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  • Bruce Hector
    3/4 gaps! That s great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it s well within epoxy range . Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch fiberglass
    Message 1 of 6 , Jul 1, 2005
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      3/4" gaps!

      That's great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it's well
      within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch
      fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.

      One several of my "boats" I've had pre bogging gaps I cpould lose my
      can of beer through!

      Get out the duct tape, lay it over the gap, and bog and glass it from
      the inside. Next day, take of the tape and do the same from the
      outside, heaping the epoxy/wood flour/whatever bonding filler you like
      up good in a mound. Later sand or grind down to the correct contour,
      or somewhere reasonably close et Voila, a nice strong seam. Stronger
      in fact than if you had a nice tight contact fit in the first place.

      Bruce Hector
      Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
    • dnjost
      John - 3/4 ? not bad! Here is what I do when fixing small holes (up to 2 ) on Pointy Skiff, and with the gaps that occured when building Diablo. 1. duct
      Message 2 of 6 , Jul 1, 2005
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        John -

        3/4"? not bad! Here is what I do when fixing small holes (up to 2")
        on Pointy Skiff, and with the gaps that occured when building Diablo.

        1. duct tape a piece of heavy plastic over the outside joint to use
        as a release film. Be sure it is as fair as possible over the
        exterior chine area.

        2. Apply putty and a layer of glass to the inside of the hole. Smooth
        it out, as you are the one who is going to have to look at this side
        of the boat as a constant reminder of it.

        3. Remove the film from the outside and fill the uneven spots with
        putty

        4. sand until it looks fair to your eye.

        By "putty" I am referring to epoxy types. Please do not use bondo
        below the waterline or anywhere where it might get very wet. It will
        deteriorate with time and Murphy will have a say as to when it will
        fail. West makes various types of compounds. I like 407 for most work
        as it sands quite easily.


        David Jost
      • Peter Lenihan
        ... , it s well ... Been double dipping in that Maudit from your last visit,I see! I always thought epoxy was indeed noted for its gap filing properties but
        Message 3 of 6 , Jul 4, 2005
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          --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
          wrote:
          > 3/4" gaps!
          , it's well
          > within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch
          > fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
          > Bruce Hector
          > Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!

          Been double dipping in that Maudit from your last visit,I see! I
          always thought epoxy was indeed noted for its' gap filing properties
          but can't recall ever reading anything about gorges,fiords,canyons
          and raveens :-) If a"gap" is found to be bigger then the width of a
          common pencil(1/4"?), I would humbly suggest re-measuring and re-
          cutting a better fitting piece. If funds are tight or budget simply
          busted,then go ahead and "patch" or fill with more epoxy. Keep in
          mind however,epoxy is far more expensive then wood and is intended
          to be the glue that holds a structure together,not the other way
          around :-)

          Sincerely,

          Peter,"Le Gris",Lenihan, worried that BBB(Big Bad Bruce) has been
          chewing on the lees at the bottom of his Maudit bottles attempting
          to tweek his buzz upward.....:-D
        • donm172001
          A 3/4 gap is big enough to shim with wood. I would cut a piece of similar wood keeping the grain in the same direction as the original piece Try to match the
          Message 4 of 6 , Jul 6, 2005
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            A 3/4" gap is big enough to shim with wood. I would cut a piece of
            similar wood keeping the grain in the same direction as the original
            piece Try to match the angle and width, but if the angle is off a
            little or the piece is not quite as wide as the gap, don't worry
            about it. Clamp a support piece under the work area if necessary. Put
            plastic carton sealing tape on it if you don't want it to be part of
            the finished structure. Coat the edges to be mated with unthickened
            epoxy, wait a while for it to soak in, then coat the mating surfaces
            with thickened epoxy and slide in the filler piece. Most likely the
            epoxy in the joints will begin to sink after a while. If it does,use
            a small syringe filled with thickened epoxy and put a bead along each
            joint. Wipe the adjacent areas with acetone or vinegar before the
            epoxy cures to save on sanding later. When it is cured about
            fingernail hard, or a little less, remove the support. and scrape off
            any epoxy above the surfaces. You will end up with an almost
            invisible repair requiring little or no sanding.







            --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
            wrote:
            > 3/4" gaps!
            >
            > That's great carpentry from my level of skill. And of course, it's
            well
            > within "epoxy range". Any gap that can be bridged with 6 inch
            > fiberglass tape is within epoxy range.
            >
            > One several of my "boats" I've had pre bogging gaps I cpould lose
            my
            > can of beer through!
            >
            > Get out the duct tape, lay it over the gap, and bog and glass it
            from
            > the inside. Next day, take of the tape and do the same from the
            > outside, heaping the epoxy/wood flour/whatever bonding filler you
            like
            > up good in a mound. Later sand or grind down to the correct
            contour,
            > or somewhere reasonably close et Voila, a nice strong seam.
            Stronger
            > in fact than if you had a nice tight contact fit in the first place.
            >
            > Bruce Hector
            > Full speed ahead Lenihan and pass the bloddy bog!
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