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Re: Redoing Brightside

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  • Bryant Owen
    Good advice. I m old enough to recall sealing everything before painting - and often it was a thinned topcoat. As a rule I do this with my oil based paints
    Message 1 of 7 , May 29, 2005
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      Good advice. I'm old enough to recall sealing everything before
      painting - and often it was a thinned topcoat. As a rule I do this
      with my oil based paints (big fan of Tremclad) and it's worked well.

      I went back where I bought it and their advice was pretty well what
      you said. Wish I'd known this in the first place. Lesson learned. IIRC
      the new can I saw at the marine store DID mention sealer but my own
      can left over from the original job does not.

      Interesting. I did a highway sign (4' x 6' MDO) a year ago that's
      south facing and receives salt blast mist in the winter. Used a top
      end gloss acrylic latex with related sealer/primer (Sherman Williams?)
      as per directions from a professional sign maker. Checked it out last
      week and expected to see some touch up areas. Nothing, nada, zilch.
      Even the bird crap acid hadn't made a dent in it. And it's almost as
      glossy and hard as the Brightside.

      I'm heading into another bare wood project and have had the local
      paint shop pro recommend one of the Zinssler (sp?) sealer/primers
      under a top brand acrylic latex - 2 coats each.

      Bryant - who sees a lot of sanding/sealing/priming/painting in his future

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, <mkriley@f...> wrote:
      > I take it the brightside was applied over bare wood in spots.
      > primer should never be applied over bare wood. It should get 1
      thinned coat of topcoat and one unthinned coat. This will mostly
      disapear into the wood
      > but seals and hardens its surface. Primer consists of vehicle<liquid>
      > and solids. If applied over bare wood the vehicle is sucked into the
      bare wood leaving a porous matrix that will pull water from anywhere.
      > the leaves were just holding water.
      > Build primers should be sanded mostly off, the only primer that
      should have a compete coat are the bonding primers.
      > Most of the new paints are for putting a sheen on fibergalss and are
      too hard
      > for bare wood.
      > To repair you paint make sure you sand back at least 1/2" from the
      bare spots and give it some initial topcoat then primer then final coats.
      > done properly it is as good as the rest. If you painted over
      epoxyed areas and bare wood you are painting over apples and oranges.
      > you can email off list if you need more help
      > if the whole surface was epoxy coated I would look for incomlete mix
      or amine blush or incomplete coverage of epoxy coating.
      > mike
      > I was a professional wooden boat guy in florida since the 70's<the
      days before boats as jewelery> . This was common knowledge but seems
      to have died out. Maintaining the same boats over a decade sure helps
      to find out the old timers were right.
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