Re: Caulking stuff
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "robert pyfrom" <neetra@c...>
wrote: "swear by Ace bath-tub caulk,"
All my TIMS units were assembled solely with drywall screws and
whatever caulk was cheapest at HD, can't remember the name. Simple 2 by
2 inside franes, the goop caulked along in a solid line and screwed
from the outside. Wipe up the excess. Simple.
None of mine leaked.
Two, that were assembled right at the Kingston Messabout did leak, one
so badly that it actually caught a fish! No caulk was used on these two.
For info on the great 2005 Kingston Messabout and lots of TIMS photos.
- Actually Bruce the one I helped assemble was caulked minutes before
launching. It wasn't until it was in the water did we realize that
we'd used water soluble latex caulking instead of, well, something
else. I'd like to believe that if the caulk had had a time to "cure"
it would've been OK.
Heck, it made a great breakfast table.
--- In email@example.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "robert pyfrom" <neetra@c...>
> wrote: "swear by Ace bath-tub caulk,"
> All my TIMS units were assembled solely with drywall screws and
> whatever caulk was cheapest at HD, can't remember the name. Simple 2 by
> 2 inside franes, the goop caulked along in a solid line and screwed
> from the outside. Wipe up the excess. Simple.
> None of mine leaked.
> Two, that were assembled right at the Kingston Messabout did leak, one
> so badly that it actually caught a fish! No caulk was used on these two.
> Bruce Hector
> For info on the great 2005 Kingston Messabout and lots of TIMS photos.
- In a message dated 4/2/05 11:06:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
> 5200 is very strong and hard when dry, and you can sand it and3M 5200 is also a terrific adhesive, as I believe someone has already noted.
> paint it. Clyde
It is not something you would want to use on any two pieces of wood you might
someday want to separate, e.g. if the boat owner decides that the boat is a
keeper and wants to rectify some of deficiencies in joinery in the future. It
sounds to me like the original inquiry was more concerned about limiting water
infiltration and enhancing the cosmetics.
Without knowing anything about anything, I think my inclination would be to
look for products that painters use when doing wood siding - 1) it would be the
kind of stuff that Home Despot, Menards, etc. stock; 2) it would be
formulated for its ease of use and cosmetic properties, rather than adhesion; 3) it
would have been developed for a much larger, more lucrative market than any
boating product and probably benefits from more R&D. Mind you, I have no idea what
house painters use for what, but I think I'd ask one.
Ciao for Niao
Bill in MN
(contemplating my latest deficiencies in wood joiner)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
- The theme of the responses seemed to be it doesn't matter
what you use.
One of my constraints is that I want the decks to be
One suggestion was to use peanut butter, however the
only peanut butter I had was crunchy so that was out.
Going with the theme of "use what you have laying
around" I chose left over rain gutter caulk. I had
only enough to do the bow which was a blessing in
disguise. Can you say mess of the century?
If this stuff wont sand I am going to have a one mile
finish on my Teal. In ten minutes I managed to caulk
35% of my body and most of the garage. The Teal fared
a little better.
For the stern I tried tub and tile caulk. I am going
to have to repaint the caulked areas anyway, see below,
so sun resistance was not too important in the end. This
was easier than the rain gutter stuff to apply. Erroneously
thinking I could actually get a smooth finish I tried the
old wet finder trick. This caused the caulk to form lumps
so I will be sanding and painting fore and aft.
I am in awe of you who can actually do this correctly.
hal, the caulking challenged, from snowy northern Utah.
> I am in awe of you who can actually do this correctly.I don't think you are describing anyone around here.
Liberal use of masking tape helps a little.
Disposable 'one use' cardboard 'coving tools'
you make with a sissors can help too.
--- In email@example.com, hal <hl700@c...> wrote:
"In ten minutes I managed to caulk 35% of my body and most of the
garage. The Teal fared a little better."
Good work Hal,
Did you hear the story about the engineer with two degeres who used
expanding foam in the air chambers of his beautiful strip built
Believe me, it can get far worse.
A group for fun or touring rowing I'm trying to get going here in
Kingston now that the water has (mostly) thawed.
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, hal <hl700@c...> wrote:
> One of my constraints is that I want the decks to beHi Hal,
I must have missed something along the way but I did not know the
TEAL even had a deck(s)......I do recall it having just a few slates
to hold the prescribed floatation in place but otherwise deckfree.
Perhaps you WANT to have a deck(s) instead of slates and if that
is the case,the deck is so teeny why even make it removable at all
when it amounts to just a big breasthook anyway and that is
something you'd want solidly anchored in place :-)
Access bellow can be assured through openings easily made through
whatever bulkhead(s) you would place inboard to support the upper
aft edge of the "deck".
Hope this makes sense, as I can hardly understand it myself :-)
Sorry to read about the mess with caulking goop.Aim for solid boat
boatbuilding and not dismountable boats.............:-D
Peter "quit caulking around" Lenihan,halfway through the aft
stateroom and making plans for the roof beintôt,from along the banks
of the St.Lawrence.........