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Re: Weldwood vs. Titebond II?

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  • andy farquhar
    Garth I used Tirtebond II on the gunnels of a glued lapstrake sailing canoe that I built two years ago. I have sailed the boat frequently for the past two
    Message 1 of 7 , Apr 5, 2000
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      Garth

      I used Tirtebond II on the gunnels of a glued lapstrake sailing canoe
      that I built two years ago. I have sailed the boat frequently for
      the past two years and all is fine. Also, I glued the scarfs for the
      inwales and outwales with Titebond II (I am too cheap to spring for
      lumber that long) and they are holding up fine. I am now using
      Titebond II for most of the joining above the waterline in a Bolger
      Oldshoe which is now under (slow) construction.

      Andy Farquhar
      afarquhar@...
    • gbship@istal.com
      Titebond II has held well in a variety of uses on three different boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I ve gotten it to fail is to boil or soak for a
      Message 2 of 7 , Apr 5, 2000
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        Titebond II has held well in a variety of uses on three different
        boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I've gotten it to fail is
        to boil or soak for a long time test joints. They don't fail on their
        own, but the glue is substantially weakened. It seems to regain its
        strength when the joint dries. Dry it seems to hold as well as epoxy.
        It especially seems appropriate when the boat will be sealed with
        epoxy anyway.

        Here in the humid south, I've had problems with Weldwood. Two masts
        using this as the sole adhesive both delaminated in the hot sun. So I
        avoid weldwood and use the cheaper and easier Titebond II.

        Gary Blankenship
        Tallahassee, FL

        P.S. Someone a couple weeks ago had a question about Clear Cote and
        Fiberglass Coatings Inc. epoxies. They are two different companies,
        but both are in St. Petersburg, FL. I don't have addresses or nubmers
        handy, but you can get that from directory assistance; area code 727.
        Of the two, Fiberglass Coatings seems to have a wider variety of
        epoxies, I like them better and they are a few dollars cheaper. Big
        drawback is they sell it in paint cans, which makes it impossible to
        pour small amounts (I use small dixie type cups to dip it out....).
        I've heard they will on request sell in plastic bottles, will find
        that out when I visit them later today!


        -- In bolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
        > I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
        > When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
        than
        > gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
        glue,
        > as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
        be
        > found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
        > Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
        > It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
        > Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
        > "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
        > submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
        stack
        > up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
        > are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
        >
        > Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
        best?
        > The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
        is
        > it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
        >
        > Looking forward to the next boat,
        > Garth
      • Robert N. Lundy
        For Fiberglass Coatings offerings etc., go to www.fgci.com And you can get their products in jugs-you just have to ask-their default is paint cans. The paint
        Message 3 of 7 , Apr 6, 2000
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          For Fiberglass Coatings offerings etc., go to www.fgci.com

          And you can get their products in jugs-you just have to ask-their default is
          paint cans. The paint cans suck.

          Robert & Amy Lundy
          St. Petersburg, fla.
          robert@...
          amy@...


          > -----Original Message-----
          > From: gbship@... [mailto:gbship@...]
          > Sent: April 06, 2000 1:17 AM
          > To: bolger@egroups.com
          > Subject: [bolger] Re: Weldwood vs. Titebond II?
          >
          >
          > Titebond II has held well in a variety of uses on three different
          > boats; from masts to rubrails. The only way I've gotten it to fail is
          > to boil or soak for a long time test joints. They don't fail on their
          > own, but the glue is substantially weakened. It seems to regain its
          > strength when the joint dries. Dry it seems to hold as well as epoxy.
          > It especially seems appropriate when the boat will be sealed with
          > epoxy anyway.
          >
          > Here in the humid south, I've had problems with Weldwood. Two masts
          > using this as the sole adhesive both delaminated in the hot sun. So I
          > avoid weldwood and use the cheaper and easier Titebond II.
          >
          > Gary Blankenship
          > Tallahassee, FL
          >
          > P.S. Someone a couple weeks ago had a question about Clear Cote and
          > Fiberglass Coatings Inc. epoxies. They are two different companies,
          > but both are in St. Petersburg, FL. I don't have addresses or nubmers
          > handy, but you can get that from directory assistance; area code 727.
          > Of the two, Fiberglass Coatings seems to have a wider variety of
          > epoxies, I like them better and they are a few dollars cheaper. Big
          > drawback is they sell it in paint cans, which makes it impossible to
          > pour small amounts (I use small dixie type cups to dip it out....).
          > I've heard they will on request sell in plastic bottles, will find
          > that out when I visit them later today!
          >
          >
          > -- In bolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
          > > I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
          > > When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
          > than
          > > gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
          > glue,
          > > as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
          > be
          > > found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
          > > Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
          > > It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
          > > Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
          > > "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
          > > submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
          > stack
          > > up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
          > > are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
          > >
          > > Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
          > best?
          > > The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
          > is
          > > it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
          > >
          > > Looking forward to the next boat,
          > > Garth
          >
          >
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        • Daniel Curnutte
          In England it is nigh on impossible to find Weldwood... The Titebond sounds like our local equivilant.. Hard as Nails and looks like glorified Elmers... I
          Message 4 of 7 , Apr 17, 2000
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            In England it is nigh on impossible to find Weldwood... The Titebond
            sounds like our local equivilant.."Hard as Nails" and looks like
            glorified Elmers... I have just started using a product by Humbrol
            (big UK adhesives co.)called Cascamite.. Other European builders
            might find this useful. It is easy to find, comes as a powder and
            mixes with water.. Even says on container.. Suitable for
            Boatbuilding!! It costs about $24 for 1.5kg of powder (about a third
            of price of epoxy).
            I have used Epoxy on my Micro for the Hull, Bulkheads and saved some
            to glue together the keel and stick in lead plug. The Cascamite is
            being used for decks etc...
            It sounds like my Cascamite is identical to Weldwood.. Can I use it
            to glue my 25' mast together???
          • Mark Paquette
            I don t now if anyone else has found this info. so here we go. I found their web site and some info on Type II testing. Check out the link below to see
            Message 5 of 7 , Apr 17, 2000
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              I don't now if anyone else has found this info. so here we go. I
              found their web site and some info on Type II testing. Check out the
              link below to see additional info on Titebond.

              00341 Revision Date: 3/10/00
              What is the difference between Type I and Type II testing?

              Type I testing: boiling for 4 hours; oven at 140�F for 19 hours.
              This
              happens for 2 cycles and then the bonds are checked for delamination.
              The bonds are then broken and must pass a certain strength before
              they break. The bonds are checked for wood failure.

              Type II testing: Wood soaked for 4 hours; oven at 120�F for 19
              hours.
              This repeated for a total of 3 cycles. The bonds are inspected for
              delamination.
              Both of these tests are done on 2" by 5" birch 3 ply plywood. Set up
              like plywood- using 3-5 plys of wood.

              �1999 Franklin International Legal Disclaimer Privacy Policy

              http://www.titebond.com/

              I think I will be using more of this stuff on my next boat.

              Mark in MN.




              --- In bolger@egroups.com, "Garth Battista" <garth@b...> wrote:
              > I recently built a Michalak Toto (and before that, a Windsprint).
              > When it came time to glue on Toto's wales, I thought, OK, rather
              than
              > gooping it up with the sure thing, epoxy, I'll finally try wood
              glue,
              > as per Payson's book, and Michalak's instructions. No Weldwood to
              be
              > found at our lumberyard, but they had this bottle of premixed
              > Titebond II, quite inexpensive.
              > It says it "outperforms all other wood glues." "Passes ANSI
              > Type II water resistance testing." "Ideal for exterior uses" but
              > "not recommended for use below the waterline or for continuous
              > submersion." All sounds OK for wales, I guess. But how does it
              stack
              > up against the most-mentioned wood glue, Weldwood? And what exactly
              > are the ANSI Type II water resistance standards?
              >
              > Has anyone ever used both and formed an opinion as to which is
              best?
              > The Titebond is a cinch to apply, with its applicator nozzle. But
              is
              > it just a glorified Elmer's? Any advice appreciated.
              >
              > Looking forward to the next boat,
              > Garth
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