[bolger] Re: Weldwood for Fillets
- I don't think that Weldwood would make good fillets.
My Cynthia J. had leeboards on a simple pivot bolt as per the plan.
Pictures in the vault. The topsides have a reinforcing pad on the inside. I
bought cheap plastic (nylon? delrin?) thru-hull fittings and installed them
a bushings in the leeboards because I though the simple holes through the
plywood leeboards would get bigger and bigger as the boards worked in use.
Boards mounted like this are easier to damage than ones that can pivot away
from the boat. IF the board is forced sideways the strain is focused on the
bolt area. On the other hand, they work on either tack. The boards need to
be have leeboard guards to rest against both above and below the pivot.
- I used Weldwood to cheaply smooth out the inner corner on a flattie
kayak I built last year. Outside, there's an external chine log about
3/8" square. I mixed the glue with some West Filleting Mix #405 I
had around. I didn't even tape it.
It came out nice, having a pretty good color to match the Philippine
Brittle it may be, but I haven't had any trouble with cracking in
one season of use, which included lots of swinging it up on top of
the car, carrying it by the coaming over my shoulder a ways,
grounding on the beach, jamming it into a corner of the garage, etc.
And the boat doesn't even have a real deck to stiffen it, just some
heat shrink dacron over a couple stringers with a Funnoodle coaming.
I think Jim Michalak is a very reliable source of information, and
you could certainly depend on Bondo to work well. But if I remember
right, Bondo is pretty boring to mix and goes off very quickly.
The only trouble with Weldwood is that, in the small 8 oz.
containers commonly available, as glue it doesn't seem to be all that
cheap anymore, compared to careful use of polyurethane or even a
little epoxy from a big jug.
I certainly would not use it for what you're proposing without keeping
everything at 70 degrees while it sets up. Putting the tape on while
the fillet is still wet will save a lot of sanding and improve adhesion.
Unless its a totally throwaway boat anyhow, why not try some
destructive testing and see if it works? The rule, courtesy of Harold
Payson, is if you drive over a sample joint with your truck and the
ply goes first it'll be all right in your boat.
- I'm building a concrete canoe (it's just something civil engineers do
for fun!) and we're allowed to have "up to 25% binding agents other
than portland cement". I was using some Probond polyurethane glue,
and noticed the instructions say that it cures in the presence of
moisture, so I thought, "why not?". I mixed 3/4 lb. of cement with
1/4 lb. of Probond, then added enough water so it was easy to work
with. That stuff has set up harder than concrete...I'm going to mix
enough next time to make some cubes so I can bust them in the
compression machine. I'll let y'all know the results when I get them.
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, Teakdeck@a... wrote:
> As some of you may recall, I am epoxy challenged (terribly allergic
> stuff). But I want to try my hand at stitch and glue construction.
> read about Jim Michalak using Bondo for filleting with polyester
resin ( I
> have read much about what's wrong with polyester, that is not what
> concerned about) over the fiberglass tape. I thought to myself, why
> Weldwood (standard instant boat glue) thickened with silica? So,
> Also, any good ideas about pivoting leeboards?
> Mike Masten