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Re: fitting polycarbonate?

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  • cha62759@traverse.com
    The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and follow the directions.
    Message 1 of 7 , Sep 1 7:04 PM
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      The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are
      asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
      follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
      about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
      variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
      shrinkage/expansion.
      Bob Chamberland

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...> wrote:
      > A week away from mounting my windows, some nice smoked
      > polycarbonate. Hate to screw it up because the polycaronate was
      > heart breakingly expensive.
      >
      > How should i cut it out......card board template to the sheet,
      > outlined and jigsawed with a plastic blade?
      >
      > How should i mount.....from the inside backed by some fir stips or
      > right onto the exterior house sides?...how much flange do i need? or
      > maybe flush into the openings with a firr flange on the inside?
      >
      > How far apart should i drill the holes? (1/4" thick)
      >
      > I've got a box of little bronze screws, washers and a several tubes
      > of 5200 donated to the project.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Jason
    • Paul W. Esterle
      I replaced the windows with Plexiglas on my boat (www.captnpauley.com). They were 3/8 thick and I drilled the holes about 2-3 apart. Use a plastic drill or
      Message 2 of 7 , Sep 1 7:57 PM
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        I replaced the windows with Plexiglas on my boat (www.captnpauley.com). They
        were 3/8" thick and I drilled the holes about 2-3" apart. Use a plastic
        drill or knock off the cutting edge of a standard twist drill practice on
        scrap to make sure it doesn't "grab" and chip the plastic. I used a medium
        toothed saber saw and cut outside the line. Sand to the line. Then I rounded
        over the edge and polished it with 600 grit then jewelers rouge until shiny.
        This remove any scratches that could serve as stress riser and crack the
        plastic. I used 1/4" fasteners in 5/16" hole to allow for
        expansion/contraction. I also used pan head screws with washers underneath.
        DON'T USE COUNTERSUNK SCREWS!!! I painted the area on the back side of the
        window where it mounted on the cabin. I used 3M 101. BoatLIFE Life-Calk is
        also good. 5200 or even 4200 may react with the plastic. I put rubber
        washers on the back side of the screws so the window tightened down on them
        and didn't squeeze out all the plastic. Use plenty of tape to mask off any
        areas you don't want sealant...

        This article will appear in the next issue of SAIL's BoatWorks Magazine.

        Paul Esterle
        Freelance Boating Writer
        Member, Boating Writers International
        Published in Small Craft Advisor, SAIL,
        Living Aboard, Boatbuilder, Good Old
        Boat, Blue Water Sailing, Nor'easter
        pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
        www.smallcraftadvisor.com
        www.captnpauley.com
      • craig o'donnell
        ... Don t use drywall screws or wood screws. Use pan head screws unless you have cup washers for the fluted shank screws. If you use fluted head screws like
        Message 3 of 7 , Sep 2 4:27 AM
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          >The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are
          >asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
          >follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
          >about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
          >variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
          >shrinkage/expansion.


          Don't use drywall screws or wood screws. Use pan head screws unless you
          have cup washers for the "fluted" shank screws. If you use fluted head
          screws like drywall screws you'll crack the plastic.

          Drill holes oversize so the plastic can expand and contract.
          --
          Craig O'Donnell
          Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
          <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
          The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
          The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
          Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
          American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
          Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
          _________________________________

          -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
          -- Macintosh kinda guy
          Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
          _________________________________
        • Lincoln Ross
          Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and bend it without doing
          Message 4 of 7 , Sep 3 5:55 AM
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            Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka
            acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
            bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
            holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
            and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
            bandsaw blade. I suppose those ideas with oversize holes are good so the
            polycarbonate will lay down flat. Plexi, on the other hand, will crack
            if you just think about it wrong. (I promise not to think too hard about
            anyone else's plexi windows.)

            > craig o'donnell wrote:
            >someone else wrote:
            >
            >
            >>>The manufacturers have detailed specifications for everything you are
            >>>asking. Go to the website of the maker of your polycarbonate and
            >>>follow the directions. Several caveats. These materials are fussy
            >>>about the kind of drill you use, the speed you drill. They have widely
            >>>variable shrinkage rates so the holes have to accommodate the
            >>>shrinkage/expansion.
            >>
            >>Don't use drywall screws or wood screws. Use pan head screws unless you
            >>have cup washers for the "fluted" shank screws. If you use fluted head
            >>screws like drywall screws you'll crack the plastic.
            >>
            >>Drill holes oversize so the plastic can expand and contract.
            >> --
            >>
          • juan negron
            Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and bend it without doing
            Message 5 of 7 , Sep 3 6:47 AM
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              Sounds like you guys are mixing up polycarbonate and plexiglas (aka
              acrylic). Polycarbonate is very hard to crack. You can beat on it and
              bend it without doing so, and I certainly can't recall any troubles with
              holes. It's good to use a slow feed rate, however, so it doesn't melt
              and freeze and grab your tools suddenly, which can do a real job on a
              bandsaw blade.

              Si seƱor. The stuff is tuff. Expensive but well worth it when the
              characteristics demand it. We use it for signage purpose when we need
              something to stand up to bored punk's abuse, for example. The usual
              problem is machining the stuff, as it is formulated precisely to
              prevent the same damages you are trying to inflict on it.

              PET is another of these materials ( the same used for soda bottles) ,
              although less rigid, and less scratch resistant.

              Both should state the U.V. resistance warranty, as not all are
              formulated for exterior use!

              We cut it with a jigsaw with a DeWalt cobalt steel Extreme blade, ref
              DT2144, for alu, plastics and fiberglass. These blades are great. As a
              matter of fact, lately we tend to buy DeWalt power tools as first
              choice. ( Standard Disclaimer : No relation to DeWalt... Bla, bla...)

              Juan.
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