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Brick leeboard

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  • Mark
    Fiddling with a pivoting leeboard for a Brick this afternoon. Using the stock Bolger shape it worked out pretty much like Frank s, i.e. pivoted about half way
    Message 1 of 4 , May 30, 2004
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      Fiddling with a pivoting leeboard for a Brick this afternoon. Using the stock Bolger shape
      it worked out pretty much like Frank's, i.e. pivoted about half way up the side and quite
      a bit toward the front of the board.
      http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/projects/threesheets/boat.cfm

      Just mocking it up, though, there seems to be a scary amount of twist in the side when
      force goes only to the rail and the bolt.
      I tried slipping in a 6' long 1 x 3 pivot board for'n'aft between the leeboard and the
      hull, but that doesn't seem to improve things enough to glue it on permanently.

      The bolt could go through the chine. That looks odd when up and requires a very long arm
      to pull the thing down.
      I'm not inclined to add a midships frame.


      Some other solutions come to mind:

      1. Double the thickness of the plywood side (inside) in way of the lowered board.
      2. A wooden, open ended 1x2" lower guard; Like Bolger's, but blocked solid for about 6"
      forward of the board only. Pivot bolt is supposed to supplement the strength lost by the
      guard's not being blocked at rear.
      3. An iron bar similar to #2. Or a loooong one, fastened down both ends to the chine.
      4. A vertical 1x3 that fits between the pivot board and the sheer, centered on the bolt.
      Still don't know how long to make the pivot board.

      #3 might be the most foolproof, also the most trouble to fabricate. Do any of the others
      have a chance?

      Mark
    • Doug Day
      I have a pivot leeboard on my brick. What I did was to mount a 1x3 on the outside at the level of the bolt and a bracket just below the gunnel. Basically
      Message 2 of 4 , May 31, 2004
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        I have a pivot leeboard on my brick. What I did was to mount a 1x3
        on the outside at the level of the bolt and a bracket just below the
        gunnel. Basically made a Michalak style leeboard mount. This
        supported the side so that I have no twist at all. I also made my
        leeboard from 2 layers of 3/8" ply as there are a number of reports
        of broken leeboards as designed.

        It seems to work pretty well. There are several different options
        that people have used that you can see at www.pdracer.com.

        Doug

        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Mark <marka@h...> wrote:
        >
        > Fiddling with a pivoting leeboard for a Brick this afternoon. Using
        the stock Bolger shape
        > it worked out pretty much like Frank's, i.e. pivoted about half way
        up the side and quite
        > a bit toward the front of the board.
        > http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/projects/threesheets/boat.cfm
        >
        > Just mocking it up, though, there seems to be a scary amount of
        twist in the side when
        > force goes only to the rail and the bolt.
        > I tried slipping in a 6' long 1 x 3 pivot board for'n'aft between
        the leeboard and the
        > hull, but that doesn't seem to improve things enough to glue it on
        permanently.
        >
        > The bolt could go through the chine. That looks odd when up and
        requires a very long arm
        > to pull the thing down.
        > I'm not inclined to add a midships frame.
        >
        >
        > Some other solutions come to mind:
        >
        > 1. Double the thickness of the plywood side (inside) in way of the
        lowered board.
        > 2. A wooden, open ended 1x2" lower guard; Like Bolger's, but
        blocked solid for about 6"
        > forward of the board only. Pivot bolt is supposed to supplement the
        strength lost by the
        > guard's not being blocked at rear.
        > 3. An iron bar similar to #2. Or a loooong one, fastened down both
        ends to the chine.
        > 4. A vertical 1x3 that fits between the pivot board and the sheer,
        centered on the bolt.
        > Still don't know how long to make the pivot board.
        >
        > #3 might be the most foolproof, also the most trouble to fabricate.
        Do any of the others
        > have a chance?
        >
        > Mark
      • Bruce Hallman
        ... Also consider building it with a side mounted daggerboard, per PCB plans. I understand your desire for a pivoting lee board, but in actual practice you
        Message 3 of 4 , May 31, 2004
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          >Mark <marka@> wrote:
          > Fiddling with a pivoting leeboard for a
          > Brick this afternoon.
          > Just mocking it up, though, there seems
          >to be a scary amount of twist in the side when
          > force goes only to the rail and the bolt.
          > Some other solutions come to mind:
          > Do any of the others
          > have a chance?

          Also consider building it with a side
          mounted daggerboard, per PCB plans.

          I understand your desire for a pivoting
          lee board, but in actual practice you might
          find that the daggerboard might be workable.

          It certainly is the simplest option.
        • Mark
          Thanks for these replies. ... Gluing down the 1x3 will make the difference. A 3 or 4 foot one ought to be enough, eh? ... Absolutely. Especially after spending
          Message 4 of 4 , Jun 1, 2004
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            Thanks for these replies.

            > I have a pivot leeboard on my brick. What I did was to mount a 1x3
            > on the outside at the level of the bolt and a bracket just below the
            > gunnel.
            > Doug

            Gluing down the 1x3 will make the difference. A 3 or 4 foot one ought to be enough, eh?


            > Also consider building it with a side
            > mounted daggerboard, per PCB plans.
            >
            > I understand your desire for a pivoting
            > lee board, but in actual practice you might
            > find that the daggerboard might be workable.
            >
            > It certainly is the simplest option.
            > Bruce

            Absolutely. Especially after spending more time than I care to reveal figuring out just
            where the pivot should be, both to leave enough but not too much peaking through the rail
            to pull down with and to come just so high to clear at the rear without ever hanging up on
            _top_ of the chine. An inch either way does seem to matter. Also, the center shifts back
            so far when retracted I doubt it will be much use.

            Still, before sailing in the 40 foot deep water, I need to learn how to in the water that
            may average 4. Maybe it needs some brass half oval around the front.

            When this one breaks, the next may be a triangular one, as is found in a centerboard; only
            pinned through the chine, and mounted open on the side.

            (( Also: One of you was nice enough to send a couple of pix. I saw the message briefly
            today at work, but must have given it the wrong flag when unsuccessfully trying to open
            the jpgs. (That network is great about connecting out but a little too careful about what
            it takes in, I guess.) Anyway I think it came down to this computer at home but cannot
            find it.))

            But I got the gist of a plywood pad inside. Would yours be about 8 inches square? If you
            can send that message again, I'll be grateful.

            Mark
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