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Re: micro sheer clamp......how?

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  • bruce@hallman.org
    ... [Could you, or someone, please post the URL link to your Micro photo album?] Two pieces of 3/4 square wood will bend tighter curves than one piece 3/4 x
    Message 1 of 9 , May 1, 2004
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      --- "Jason Stancil" wrote:
      > No way that sheer clamp
      > is making that bend

      [Could you, or someone,
      please post the URL link to
      your Micro photo album?]

      Two pieces of 3/4" square
      wood will bend tighter
      curves than one piece
      3/4" x 1 1/2". Especially
      if the curves are in three
      dimensions.

      Also, I made many of the
      tight bends by not bending
      but simply cutting a curved
      piece of wood to fit the curve.

      One unanticipated curve issue
      that I am just encountering
      is that the camber of the
      roof of my boat has eased by
      two inches in the heat of
      California Spring, versus
      the cool of last winter.

      This has implications to the
      fit of the sliding roof hatch
      which I am presently dealing!
    • Peter Lenihan
      ... Jason, It means that this is what is going to be happening as you remove the rubrail from its dry fit stage,prior to hollowing and gluing.You want to
      Message 2 of 9 , May 3, 2004
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        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jason Stancil" <jasonstancil@h...>
        wrote:
        > > Now,working backwards,back out the screws only enough to
        > > release the rubrail while your helper holds the now straightening
        > > out end and keeps it from twisting and breaking.
        >
        > Huh? what does that mean?

        Jason,
        It "means" that this is what is going to be happening as you
        remove the rubrail from its "dry fit" stage,prior to hollowing and
        gluing.You want to make sure the end being freed from the crews does
        not fall off and crack uncerimoniously.Also,do not back out the
        screws too far since you want to keep just a little point sticking
        out proud to serve as guide points for perfect re-attachment.This is
        most helpful since a rub rail loaded with glue is going to be one
        slippy snake and with it smearing all over the place :-), you'll be
        hard pressed to find your pencil line again underneath the glue.......

        Hope this makes better sense and that it is not too late to be
        helpful!

        Sincerely,

        Peter Lenihan,ex owner/builder of Lestat.........
      • Bruce Hallman
        ... Worth mentioning, [if you have not already noticed.] The rubrail bends in two directions. I don t have my plans handy, but I recall the Micro rubrail is
        Message 3 of 9 , May 3, 2004
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          > the micro rubrail

          Worth mentioning, [if you have not
          already noticed.] The rubrail bends
          in two directions. I don't have
          my plans handy, but I recall the
          Micro rubrail is about 3/4" by 2"?

          The 3/4" direction bends easily with
          the width of the boat, but the 2"
          direction is a much tougher bend
          following the shear line. Avoid
          the temptation to increase the
          2" dimension because you will not
          be able to follow the shear line
          bend.

          If you want a wider rubrail, [like
          I did], you need to make it up from
          multiple pieces. I chose to use three
          3/4" x 1 1/2" strips plus an overlay
          of two 3/4" x 1 1/2" strips ripped from
          nice D.Fir 2x6's.

          Worth a debate, the sail plan drawing
          of the Micro Navigator seems to show
          a wider rubrail than the rubrail
          shown on the standard Micro. [To my
          eye at least!] Also the stern transom
          of the Navigator shows a very wide rubrail
          [not shown on the standard Micro transom].
          I interpreted this to mean the Navigator
          has a wider rubrail all around, including
          a rubrail across the bow transom.

          Also, I am fond of my extra deep rubrail
          on one side which gives me a toe-hold to shimmy
          around the Navigator Cabin, [PCB approved.]
        • Paul Lefebvre
          I just mounted my rubrails on Saturday so it s fresh in my mind that the standard plans call for 2: 1/2 thick layers, the inner one is supposed to be 2 1/2
          Message 4 of 9 , May 3, 2004
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            I just mounted my rubrails on Saturday so it's fresh in my mind that the
            standard plans call for 2: 1/2" thick layers, the inner one is supposed to
            be 2 1/2" by 1/2", outer is something like 1 1/4" x 1/2". I'd decided to go
            with a single piece of 3/4" x 2 1/2" but it just wouldn't make the bend; I
            ripped 1/2" off and the 3/4" x 2" rails went on, but still required a fair
            bit of force.

            I'd pre-bent my rails by suspending them between a bench and a stool and
            leaving a 40lb weight on the middle for about 2 weeks; this made them sag to
            almost follow the boat's hull shape by themselves in the horizontal; but the
            bend in the vertical dimension was tough! They are now temporarily screwed
            on, before sticking them on chemically I will pull the boat out of the shed
            and have a look from different angles/distances to be sure I'm happy, for as
            Peter mentioned, this line is very important in the overall appearance of
            the boat. I plan to leave them screwed on for a couple weeks and work on
            other stuff, let 'em get used to their new shape a bit before I go back and
            wrestle with them again to get the epoxy in between them and the hull; might
            make it go a bit easier.

            By the way Peter, thanks for the tip on the Sikkens Cetol. Great stuff;
            really rich color and very easy to work with! Makes my bargain
            pseudo-mahogany look like expensive teak!

            Paul Lefebvre

            -----Original Message-----
            From: Bruce Hallman [mailto:bruce@...]

            > the micro rubrail

            Worth mentioning, [if you have not
            already noticed.] The rubrail bends
            in two directions. I don't have
            my plans handy, but I recall the
            Micro rubrail is about 3/4" by 2"?

            The 3/4" direction bends easily with
            the width of the boat, but the 2"
            direction is a much tougher bend
            following the shear line.
          • Jason Stancil
            Peter- thanks for the explaination on both the keel and the rub rails. I did nt realize you used a different keel assembly than the plans, thanks though. I
            Message 5 of 9 , May 3, 2004
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              Peter- thanks for the explaination on both the keel and the rub
              rails.
              I did'nt realize you used a different keel assembly than the plans,
              thanks though. I think the keel assembly want be too tough. I'm
              going to build it up after i glass the hull and get the batten on,
              then i'm just going to set it aside till i drag her out for the
              finishing and mount it then. The flipping was brutal the first time.
              I've since added the two navigator frames and pulled thge temps and
              i've started the seat and air box framing so it should be a good 50 -
              75 lbs. heavier the 2nd time around. Then once i get the glass and
              wpoxy on another 15.......i better start being nice to the neibor
              kids......the pissed me off saying it was goofy looking :)

              Bruce thanks for the rub rail info.

              I got my sheer claps on both inner and outer on one side i'll do the
              other some time this week. My problem was i was trying to use 1.5
              x .75 to beef it up........tisk, tisk. Not what bolger specified. I
              went with the .75(+)x.75(+) and it flopped right in place.....only a
              few curses to persuade it. I used oak for the rails and everone here
              says "oak don't glue and rots easy" so I clamped both sides in place
              and just drove some 2" stainless screws right through the outside
              rail through the hull and only in one or to places did the tips poke
              through the inner rail......all of those places out of sight in the
              flooding wells....i'll grind them later. I measured the screws and
              spaced them evenly the SS heads seated nice and look good. I'll coat
              it all with epoxy so the water stays out.

              As for the rub rail, i've got to make a little scribe/transfer jig
              as my marks are on the inside of the hull (dumb!). Like you said
              bruce tough to bend the 2 inches up to follow the sheer so i'm
              laminating several pieces together like you did. I noticed that the
              navigator sheet shows bigger rails and i figured if they were 1.5
              inches thick i could scoot around the cabin using those and the hand
              rails i'm going to put on the cabin top......there i go again
              deviating from the plans. It's your fault bruce i thought yours
              looked good. If it was'nt for your pictures and oink online i'd be
              lost.

              Thanks for everyones help

              Launch by 2027 or bust!
              Jason
            • Nels
              ... I would like add that this is also handy even when the boat is on a trailer... Nels
              Message 6 of 9 , May 3, 2004
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                --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
                > > the micro rubrail
                >> Also, I am fond of my extra deep rubrail
                > on one side which gives me a toe-hold to shimmy
                > around the Navigator Cabin, [PCB approved.]

                I would like add that this is also handy even when the boat is on a
                trailer... Nels
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