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Re: epoxy thickening and coating question?

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  • John ONeill
    If you don t already have one, I highly recommend buying System 3 s starter kit for $10. It only has enough epoxy to play around with, but it comes with an
    Message 1 of 6 , Apr 1, 2004
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      If you don't already have one, I highly recommend buying System 3's
      starter kit for $10. It only has enough epoxy to play around with,
      but it comes with an easy to udnerstand book, thickeners, measureing
      cups, I think they even put gloves in it. It'll get you up to speed
      quickly and give you an idea what the stuff'll do and how to do it.

      My experience is that while there is a learning curve, epoxy is
      easier than you might think. Even the drawbacks, like long set-up
      time, can be used to advantage and turned into plusses. 'Plastic'
      epoxy, kicking but not cured, is easy to work. The stuff is
      incredibly versitle, glue, filler, fairing compound, undercoat for
      varnish . . . you can color it, sand it, even use it as a bearing
      surface. Both of my 5 year old Cartopper's stainless steel
      centerboard pins are loosly embedded in clear epoxy. They're as
      tightly fitted as the day they were made, no give, but still spin in
      their holes (solidly embedding ss in epoxy promotes crevace
      corrosion). I cured the epoxy right around the pins, which were
      coated with wax.

      My gut reaction is that Gorilla glue over cured epoxy might not be a
      good idea, but I don't know. However, I think once you start using
      epoxy the question of using Gorilla glue over it won't be an issue.

      Some pros won't use epoxy, as a glue, even over cured epoxy. If they
      have to they'll sand through the old coat and glue-up fresh wood to
      fresh wood. Think ahead and it probably won't be a significant issue.

      John O'Neill

      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "smithriverranger" <jasonstancil@h...>
      wrote:
      > 3 questions:
      >
      > 1. Is wood flour ok for thickening epoxy to use as a glue? or is
      > silica a better choice?
      >
      > 2. I'm planning on building with mdo......Do i need to precoat the
      > endgrain before i actually wet out the end let it tack and then add
      > the thickened epoxy? Or can i do it all at once? Seems easier to
      not
      > have to scrub the blush and from i what i have read i'm under the
      > impression that it will be a stronger bond if i do it all at
      > once...both a chemical and physical bond.
      >
      > 3. If i have precoated wood with epoxy and it has fully set can i
      > use gorilla glue to bond the 2 epoxy coated surfaces together? I'm
      > real familiar with the gorilla glue plus it's much cheaper than
      > epoxy so i'm tempted to use it in some circumstances.
      >
      > Epoxy is new to me, i've only built with titebond II and gorilla
      > glue in the past. Longetivity is my goal here so a little over kill
      > is ok by me.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Jason Stancil
    • Paul Lefebvre
      I met a guy in Puerto Rico in February who is building a catamaran that has a stripped lower hull and ply uppers. He taught me a new trick - when he ripped his
      Message 2 of 6 , Apr 1, 2004
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        I met a guy in Puerto Rico in February who is building a catamaran that has
        a stripped lower hull and ply uppers. He taught me a new trick - when he
        ripped his strips he saved the sawdust, then put it through his wife's food
        processor to make his own 'wood flour' - I saw some of it, looks just like
        the stuff Raka sells, perfectly even and very fine, only in his case the
        color matches his wood perfectly....

        Paul Lefebvre


        >>.... If you use sawdust, try to figure out a way to use only the really
        finest stuff.
        The particle size really seems to affect the handling properties of the
        epoxy mix.
      • Lincoln Ross
        ... Works fine. I still like to add a little silica as it makes the stuff behave a little better. But wood flour alone is not bad. Probably much better than
        Message 3 of 6 , Apr 1, 2004
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          See below:

          >Jason Stancil wrote:
          >3 questions:
          >
          >1. Is wood flour ok for thickening epoxy to use as a glue? or is
          >silica a better choice?
          >
          Works fine. I still like to add a little silica as it makes the stuff
          behave a little better. But wood flour alone is not bad. Probably much
          better than silica if you end up breathing a little bit of it. Sometimes
          I will hold my breath while adding the silica until I walk outdoors with
          it to do my mixing. A really good mask may be better. If you use
          sawdust, try to figure out a way to use only the really finest stuff.
          The particle size really seems to affect the handling properties of the
          epoxy mix.

          >2. I'm planning on building with mdo......Do i need to precoat the
          >endgrain before i actually wet out the end let it tack and then add
          >the thickened epoxy?
          >
          I think I would coat once, wait five or 10 minutes, and come back. And
          if it works with your building sequence you could come back in a while
          (like 30 minutes) and add the thickened epoxy. You may be worrying a bit
          much here. Probably depends on just where the end will be in the
          finished boat.

          >Or can i do it all at once? Seems easier to not
          >have to scrub the blush and from i what i have read i'm under the
          >impression that it will be a stronger bond if i do it all at
          >once...both a chemical and physical bond.
          >
          People say it will still be a strong bond if you come back the next day.
          Blush comes off easily, tho I guess the water might take a while to dry
          out of the end grain. You shouldn't be depending on good strength from
          end grain butt joints. That only works, as far as I know, with very
          precise joints with Titebond in very light balsa. Not something you'd
          see on a boat.

          >
          >3. If i have precoated wood with epoxy and it has fully set can i
          >use gorilla glue to bond the 2 epoxy coated surfaces together? I'm
          >real familiar with the gorilla glue plus it's much cheaper than
          >epoxy so i'm tempted to use it in some circumstances.
          >
          You'd better sand that epoxy. Haven't tried it myself. Any Gorilla Glue
          I've seen is MUCH more expensive than epoxy bought in bulk. Try raka.com

          >
          >Epoxy is new to me, i've only built with titebond II and gorilla
          >glue in the past. Longetivity is my goal here so a little over kill
          >is ok by me.
          >
          Just be careful not to get it on you! (you can clean your tools with
          vinegar, but don't let the stuff get on you)

          >
          >Thanks,
          >Jason Stancil
          >
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