Re: MICRO KEEL PATTERN
- --- In email@example.com, "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> Where the heavier chines decided on because of the heavierHi Nels, Yes,the chines were slightly beefed up to take the
> fastenings? (Less chance of splitting etc.) The trade-ff being you
> had to steam the chine logs to get tehm into position.
fastenings without fear of having the prescribed 3/4" square chines
split. As for the"steaming" of them,it was just a couple of
towels,wrapped around the chine at the point of greatest bend,soaked
with hot water,covered in plastic and left over-night with a weight
attached to the outboard end.When I returned the following day,the
chines had settled down to their new shape:-)
> Did you space the screws the same distance as you would have with
> ring nails? I am wondering if a screw holds that much better than a
> ring nail as it must be counter-sunk and then there is the risk of
> being pulled through the 3/8" plywood. Or would it be possible toIn
> remove the screws above the water line once the expoxy has cured?
> which case one could use drywall screws. (Below the waterline theyThe primary reason for my use of screws has to do with how I like to
> will be totally glassed in anyway.)
build.That is,I am a firm believer in the "dry fit" whereby whatever
you are assembling all gets put together without epoxy and tested for
fit.Once the piece is"perfect",it is unscrewed,epoxy is then laid on
and the whole thing goes back together precisely since you can now
use your screw holes as guides.Another benefit is that a screw will
let you draw a work together gently without all the noise,hammer head
dents in the wood from missed strikes and general violence usually
associated with a swinging hammer.Ring nails are just as strong as
screws but do not afford the above advantages.
I suppose that one could remove all the fastenings and trust the
epoxy to do its job.At the time when I built LESTAT,my faith was
still somewhat shaky.
>I recall it as more a 1X6 but what's a couple of inches between
> I am also wondering about installing the keelson, which is not
> mentioned in the plans. You used a 1X4 mahogany board faired into
> notches in all the bulkheads and both ends? Then you screwed the
> bottom plywood along the keelson as well?
friends :-) but yes,that is how it was done with the keelson only
running between the two ends of the enclosed living space and not out
to the transom nor the stem(bow transom). I wanted it for the
spreading of the loads expected from the traditionally hung ballast
and to prevent the bottom plywood from flexing the wrong way and
developing a convex bottom.
> For the rest of the framing, you went with the standard dimensions
> seems, except for the cabin overhead beams. Did you use a smallerFor most of the boat,I used s/s Robertson drive number 8 screws with
> sized screw in the smaller frames?.
some number 6 and 10 where thought best and a few number 14(yikes!)
like the ones which secure the eye straps up forward on the mast
> believe that an additional manual would constrict a buildersnatural
> creativity. What it would do is pull together various articles thatand
> are already scattered around "out there" and perhaps avoid some
> potential pitfalls to catch people over and over again.
> The sharing of ideas would never be stifled so long as there are
> pirates, dreamers, half vast vikings, beer drinking proslethizers
> moaning chair mystics! (Sorry if I missed anyone:-)Deep down inside my little black rock of a soul,I whole heartedly
agree with you Nels..............but I'm too lazy :-)
Perhaps if you keep asking me a few questions at a time and take
notes,over time you might be able to throw together a manual of sorts
and market it........I won't even ask for a royalty :-D
> Cheers, Nels