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Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!

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  • Richard Spelling
    I shouldn t be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either. ... From: Bruce Hallman To:
    Message 1 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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      I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either.
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
      To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
      Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


      > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
      > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
      >
      > Oh yes, another reason to fix
      > the off-center board wells from
      > the exterior, is that if you were
      > to try to gain access from the
      > interior, you would need to move
      > the *large* lead ballast bars
      > hiding beneath the cabinets.
      >
      >
      >
      > Bolger rules!!!
      > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
      > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
      > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
      > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
      > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
      > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
      >
      > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
      >
    • Frank San Miguel
      Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement. ok - I ll summarize the idea: - Cut holes the sides - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
      Message 2 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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        Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.

        ok - I'll summarize the idea:

        - Cut holes the sides
        - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
        - scarf in some new side pieces

        Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
        waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
        exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
        wells.

        Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
        blocks?

        Frank

        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
        > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
        and make it near perfect, either.
        > ----- Original Message -----
        > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
        > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
        > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
        > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
        >
        >
        > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
        > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
        > >
        > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
        > > the off-center board wells from
        > > the exterior, is that if you were
        > > to try to gain access from the
        > > interior, you would need to move
        > > the *large* lead ballast bars
        > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > Bolger rules!!!
        > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
        > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
        posts
        > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
        > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
        01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
        > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
        > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
        > >
        > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
        http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        > >
        > >
      • Richard Spelling
        I d put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair the joint smooth and
        Message 3 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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          I'd put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair
          the joint smooth and invisible from the rest of the hull.

          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
          To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 12:39 PM
          Subject: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


          > Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.
          >
          > ok - I'll summarize the idea:
          >
          > - Cut holes the sides
          > - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
          > - scarf in some new side pieces
          >
          > Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
          > waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
          > exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
          > wells.
          >
          > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
          > blocks?
          >
          > Frank
          >
          > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
          > > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
          > and make it near perfect, either.
          > > ----- Original Message -----
          > > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
          > > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
          > > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
          > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
          > >
          > >
          > > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
          > > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
          > > >
          > > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
          > > > the off-center board wells from
          > > > the exterior, is that if you were
          > > > to try to gain access from the
          > > > interior, you would need to move
          > > > the *large* lead ballast bars
          > > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > Bolger rules!!!
          > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
          > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
          > posts
          > > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
          > > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
          > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
          > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          > > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
          > > >
          > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
          > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          > > >
          > > >
          >
          >
          >
          > Bolger rules!!!
          > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
          > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
          > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
          > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
          > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          >
          >
        • mikestockstill
          Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the
          Message 4 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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            Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has
            a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the bit of
            extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for actually
            joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call a "reinforcing
            strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs along the upper
            horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the midshipectomy. See

            http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/

            Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as thick.

            Mike


            --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
            > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
            > blocks?
          • Peter Lenihan
            ... pass loosely has ... cut, and the bit of ... actually ... a reinforcing ... along the upper ... midshipectomy. See ... thick. ... Frank, Mike is
            Message 5 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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              --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
              > Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could
              pass loosely has
              > a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree
              cut, and the bit of
              > extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for
              actually
              > joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call
              a "reinforcing
              > strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs
              along the upper
              > horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the
              midshipectomy. See
              >
              > http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
              >
              > Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as
              thick.
              >
              > Mike


              Frank,
              Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
              experience is valuable.
              Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
              times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
              butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
              excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
              underneath.
              With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
              side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
              which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
              epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
              together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
              situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
              little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
              have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
              Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
              scarf.


              Sincerely,

              Peter Lenihan
            • Frank San Miguel
              Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks. Frank
              Message 6 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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                Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks.

                Frank

                --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
                > Frank,
                > Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
                > experience is valuable.
                > Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
                > times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
                > butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
                > excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
                > underneath.
                > With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
                > side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
                > which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
                > epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
                > together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
                > situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
                > little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
                > have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
                > Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
                > scarf.
                >
                >
                > Sincerely,
                >
                > Peter Lenihan
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