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Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!

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  • Bruce Hallman
    ... I agree! After looking again at the AS-29 drawings, the off-centerboard wells could be totally rebuilt without removing the interior cabinetry. Take a
    Message 1 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
      > Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue your
      > boat! It doesn't have to look perfect

      I agree! After looking again at the
      AS-29 drawings, the off-centerboard
      wells could be totally rebuilt without
      removing the interior cabinetry. Take a
      saw to the exterior hull, rebuild the
      wells and patch back the hull by lapping
      on some plywood.

      I the worse case, the boat could 'swell'
      out another inch at that location, so what!
    • Bruce Hallman
      ... Oh yes, another reason to fix the off-center board wells from the exterior, is that if you were to try to gain access from the interior, you would need to
      Message 2 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
        --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
        > Take a saw to the exterior hull,

        Oh yes, another reason to fix
        the off-center board wells from
        the exterior, is that if you were
        to try to gain access from the
        interior, you would need to move
        the *large* lead ballast bars
        hiding beneath the cabinets.
      • Richard Spelling
        I shouldn t be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either. ... From: Bruce Hallman To:
        Message 3 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
          I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either.
          ----- Original Message -----
          From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
          To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
          Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
          Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


          > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
          > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
          >
          > Oh yes, another reason to fix
          > the off-center board wells from
          > the exterior, is that if you were
          > to try to gain access from the
          > interior, you would need to move
          > the *large* lead ballast bars
          > hiding beneath the cabinets.
          >
          >
          >
          > Bolger rules!!!
          > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
          > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
          > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
          > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
          > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
          > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
          >
          > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          >
          >
        • Frank San Miguel
          Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement. ok - I ll summarize the idea: - Cut holes the sides - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
          Message 4 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
            Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.

            ok - I'll summarize the idea:

            - Cut holes the sides
            - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
            - scarf in some new side pieces

            Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
            waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
            exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
            wells.

            Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
            blocks?

            Frank

            --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
            > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
            and make it near perfect, either.
            > ----- Original Message -----
            > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
            > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
            > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
            > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
            >
            >
            > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
            > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
            > >
            > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
            > > the off-center board wells from
            > > the exterior, is that if you were
            > > to try to gain access from the
            > > interior, you would need to move
            > > the *large* lead ballast bars
            > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > > Bolger rules!!!
            > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
            > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
            posts
            > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
            > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
            01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
            > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
            > >
            > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
            http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            > >
            > >
          • Richard Spelling
            I d put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair the joint smooth and
            Message 5 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
              I'd put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair
              the joint smooth and invisible from the rest of the hull.

              ----- Original Message -----
              From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
              To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 12:39 PM
              Subject: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


              > Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.
              >
              > ok - I'll summarize the idea:
              >
              > - Cut holes the sides
              > - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
              > - scarf in some new side pieces
              >
              > Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
              > waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
              > exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
              > wells.
              >
              > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
              > blocks?
              >
              > Frank
              >
              > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
              > > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
              > and make it near perfect, either.
              > > ----- Original Message -----
              > > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
              > > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
              > > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
              > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
              > >
              > >
              > > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
              > > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
              > > >
              > > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
              > > > the off-center board wells from
              > > > the exterior, is that if you were
              > > > to try to gain access from the
              > > > interior, you would need to move
              > > > the *large* lead ballast bars
              > > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > Bolger rules!!!
              > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
              > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
              > posts
              > > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
              > > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
              > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
              > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > > >
              > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
              > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              > > >
              > > >
              >
              >
              >
              > Bolger rules!!!
              > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
              > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
              > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
              > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
              > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
              >
              > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              >
              >
            • mikestockstill
              Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the
              Message 6 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
                Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has
                a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the bit of
                extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for actually
                joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call a "reinforcing
                strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs along the upper
                horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the midshipectomy. See

                http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/

                Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as thick.

                Mike


                --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
                > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
                > blocks?
              • Peter Lenihan
                ... pass loosely has ... cut, and the bit of ... actually ... a reinforcing ... along the upper ... midshipectomy. See ... thick. ... Frank, Mike is
                Message 7 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
                  --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
                  > Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could
                  pass loosely has
                  > a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree
                  cut, and the bit of
                  > extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for
                  actually
                  > joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call
                  a "reinforcing
                  > strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs
                  along the upper
                  > horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the
                  midshipectomy. See
                  >
                  > http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
                  >
                  > Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as
                  thick.
                  >
                  > Mike


                  Frank,
                  Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
                  experience is valuable.
                  Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
                  times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
                  butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
                  excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
                  underneath.
                  With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
                  side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
                  which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
                  epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
                  together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
                  situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
                  little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
                  have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
                  Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
                  scarf.


                  Sincerely,

                  Peter Lenihan
                • Frank San Miguel
                  Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks. Frank
                  Message 8 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
                    Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks.

                    Frank

                    --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
                    > Frank,
                    > Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
                    > experience is valuable.
                    > Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
                    > times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
                    > butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
                    > excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
                    > underneath.
                    > With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
                    > side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
                    > which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
                    > epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
                    > together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
                    > situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
                    > little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
                    > have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
                    > Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
                    > scarf.
                    >
                    >
                    > Sincerely,
                    >
                    > Peter Lenihan
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