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Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!

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  • mikestockstill
    Hi Frank- Let me offer the following perspective: http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/deconstruction/ I think your repair is small by comparison. Get
    Message 1 of 15 , Oct 1, 2003
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      Hi Frank-

      Let me offer the following perspective:

      http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/deconstruction/

      I think your repair is small by comparison.

      Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue your boat! It doesn't have to look
      perfect
      either - it just needs to be safe and secure.

      You will have this finished in time for your cruise.

      Have at it!

      Mike


      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
      > It's a sad day for Alisa (my AS-29).

      ...snip...

      >
      > If you want to see pictures of what rot can do to your chine logs, visit:
      > http://www.fsanmiguel.com/alisa/rot-9-28-03
      >
      > If you have some suggestions as to what I should do with Alisa, let me
      > know.
      >
      > Frank
    • Bruce Hallman
      ... I agree! After looking again at the AS-29 drawings, the off-centerboard wells could be totally rebuilt without removing the interior cabinetry. Take a
      Message 2 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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        > Get a saw, cut out the bad stuff, and rescue your
        > boat! It doesn't have to look perfect

        I agree! After looking again at the
        AS-29 drawings, the off-centerboard
        wells could be totally rebuilt without
        removing the interior cabinetry. Take a
        saw to the exterior hull, rebuild the
        wells and patch back the hull by lapping
        on some plywood.

        I the worse case, the boat could 'swell'
        out another inch at that location, so what!
      • Bruce Hallman
        ... Oh yes, another reason to fix the off-center board wells from the exterior, is that if you were to try to gain access from the interior, you would need to
        Message 3 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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          --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
          > Take a saw to the exterior hull,

          Oh yes, another reason to fix
          the off-center board wells from
          the exterior, is that if you were
          to try to gain access from the
          interior, you would need to move
          the *large* lead ballast bars
          hiding beneath the cabinets.
        • Richard Spelling
          I shouldn t be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either. ... From: Bruce Hallman To:
          Message 4 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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            I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull and make it near perfect, either.
            ----- Original Message -----
            From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@...>
            To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
            Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


            > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
            > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
            >
            > Oh yes, another reason to fix
            > the off-center board wells from
            > the exterior, is that if you were
            > to try to gain access from the
            > interior, you would need to move
            > the *large* lead ballast bars
            > hiding beneath the cabinets.
            >
            >
            >
            > Bolger rules!!!
            > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
            > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
            > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
            > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
            > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
            > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
          • Frank San Miguel
            Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement. ok - I ll summarize the idea: - Cut holes the sides - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
            Message 5 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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              Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.

              ok - I'll summarize the idea:

              - Cut holes the sides
              - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
              - scarf in some new side pieces

              Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
              waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
              exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
              wells.

              Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
              blocks?

              Frank

              --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
              > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
              and make it near perfect, either.
              > ----- Original Message -----
              > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
              > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
              > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
              > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
              >
              >
              > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
              > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
              > >
              > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
              > > the off-center board wells from
              > > the exterior, is that if you were
              > > to try to gain access from the
              > > interior, you would need to move
              > > the *large* lead ballast bars
              > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
              > >
              > >
              > >
              > > Bolger rules!!!
              > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
              > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
              posts
              > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
              > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
              01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
              > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
              > >
              > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
              http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              > >
              > >
            • Richard Spelling
              I d put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair the joint smooth and
              Message 6 of 15 , Oct 2, 2003
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                I'd put butt blocks on the inside to hold everything together, and lay some glass over the joint on the outside, in order to fair
                the joint smooth and invisible from the rest of the hull.

                ----- Original Message -----
                From: "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@...>
                To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 12:39 PM
                Subject: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!


                > Thanks Mike, Bruce and Richard! For the ideas *and* encouragement.
                >
                > ok - I'll summarize the idea:
                >
                > - Cut holes the sides
                > - fix the chines and rebuild the wells
                > - scarf in some new side pieces
                >
                > Sounds like a good plan to me. I only need to replace parts below the
                > waterline (slightly above) so I'll be scarfing the timbers and
                > exterior ply and using butt blocks for inboard sides of the bilgeboard
                > wells.
                >
                > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
                > blocks?
                >
                > Frank
                >
                > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...> wrote:
                > > I shouldn't be that hard to patch a hole cut in the extrenal hull
                > and make it near perfect, either.
                > > ----- Original Message -----
                > > From: "Bruce Hallman" <bruce@h...>
                > > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
                > > Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:11 AM
                > > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: A sad day for Alisa -- not so!
                > >
                > >
                > > > --- Bruce Hallman wrote:
                > > > > Take a saw to the exterior hull,
                > > >
                > > > Oh yes, another reason to fix
                > > > the off-center board wells from
                > > > the exterior, is that if you were
                > > > to try to gain access from the
                > > > interior, you would need to move
                > > > the *large* lead ballast bars
                > > > hiding beneath the cabinets.
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > Bolger rules!!!
                > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
                > posts
                > > > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
                > > > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
                > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                > > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
                > > >
                > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
                > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                > > >
                > > >
                >
                >
                >
                > Bolger rules!!!
                > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
                > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
                > - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
                > - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
                > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
                > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
                >
                > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                >
                >
              • mikestockstill
                Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the
                Message 7 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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                  Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could pass loosely has
                  a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree cut, and the bit of
                  extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for actually
                  joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call a "reinforcing
                  strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs along the upper
                  horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the midshipectomy. See

                  http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/

                  Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as thick.

                  Mike


                  --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Frank San Miguel" <sanmi@y...> wrote:
                  > Mike, how did you fasten your new plywood panels - scarfing or butt
                  > blocks?
                • Peter Lenihan
                  ... pass loosely has ... cut, and the bit of ... actually ... a reinforcing ... along the upper ... midshipectomy. See ... thick. ... Frank, Mike is
                  Message 8 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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                    --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
                    > Definitely go with butt blocks. The only thing I did that could
                    pass loosely has
                    > a scarf is the chine - note from the earlier link the 45 degree
                    cut, and the bit of
                    > extra length of plywood I added to make the sheet longer. But for
                    actually
                    > joining the new ply to the existing, I used what the plans call
                    a "reinforcing
                    > strap. This is a long 3"x1"(2 layers of 1/2") piece that runs
                    along the upper
                    > horizontal edge of the ply side that remained after the
                    midshipectomy. See
                    >
                    > http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/frame_construction/
                    >
                    > Each end had also a vertical butt block - much wider, but not as
                    thick.
                    >
                    > Mike


                    Frank,
                    Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
                    experience is valuable.
                    Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
                    times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
                    butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
                    excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
                    underneath.
                    With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
                    side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
                    which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
                    epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
                    together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
                    situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
                    little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
                    have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
                    Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
                    scarf.


                    Sincerely,

                    Peter Lenihan
                  • Frank San Miguel
                    Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks. Frank
                    Message 9 of 15 , Oct 3, 2003
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                      Sam Devlin describes something simiar. Sounds practical to me! Thanks.

                      Frank

                      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <lestat@b...> wrote:
                      > Frank,
                      > Mike is obviously the real "surgeon" in the gang and his
                      > experience is valuable.
                      > Just to add to the plywood joining ideas,I've used a number of
                      > times a thing I call the "Butt-Scarf". What this is esentially is a
                      > butt strap let into the panels you wish to join without the unsightly
                      > excrescence of the butt strap reminding you forever of what lays
                      > underneath.
                      > With the 1/2" side panels,you would/could router out 1/4" of the
                      > side panel to a width equal to the width of your intended butt strap
                      > which would be,of course,1/4" thick. Mix up a nice thick batch of
                      > epoxy after pre-coating the exposed landings and clamp the sucker
                      > together with clamps,srews or whatever works best for your
                      > situation.Screws work well and it is a breeze to later seal up the
                      > little screw holes.Done with attention to detail and some care,you'll
                      > have a hard time seeing where"it" is once painted over :-)
                      > Also,a whole lot quicker and"easier" to get right then a true
                      > scarf.
                      >
                      >
                      > Sincerely,
                      >
                      > Peter Lenihan
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