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Re: sputtering 4 strokes

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  • Ron Magen
    While my 199x vintage Evinrude Yachtwin is not a 4-stroke it is just as susceptible to gas contamination as any engine. I do a few simple procedures on a
    Message 1 of 20 , Sep 5, 2003
      While my 199x vintage Evinrude 'Yachtwin' is not a '4-stroke' it is just
      as susceptible to 'gas contamination' as any engine. I do a few simple
      procedures on a regular basis and really have had no problems. In fact,
      I told another Potter owner to follow them and it cured HIS engine
      stalling problems . . . I once had to tow him in because the engine

      Mine has a 3 gal. 'remote' tank, while his had a smaller capacity
      'internal tank' so I know this works with both. Condensation can be a
      lot more than you realize; and the effect on the fuel a lot greater with
      even a small amount. I always add about a 'capful' of 'Store-N-Start'
      stabilizer to the tank on fill up. If I add more gas, I'll also add a
      bit more of the stabilizer. Supposedly, this stuff also has a 'dryer'
      component, but adding a occasional 'dash' of 'dollar store' stuff
      wouldn't hurt if you haven't used the gas in a long time. {ALL the
      'cheap stuff' is Methanol; the stuff that has Ethanol {or
      Isopropyl }WILL SAY SO on the 'components' list. In addition, I always
      make sure the carburetor bowl is EMPTY at the end of the day. I leave
      the engine on a fast idle, and disconnect the fuel line . . . AT THE
      TANK . . . and hang that end on the boom 'pigtail' so it drains the line
      and carb. No 'sludge', gum, or varnish build-up. Annually, I clean or
      replace the fuel filter in the engine, and inspect and/or replace the
      plugs. When the boat was 'slipped' we used an old 'car cover' for a boat
      cover, and kept the fuel container shaded and the vent closed. Now that
      she is on a mooring, and un-shaded, we leave it open . . . so the
      plastic tank doesn't 'flex' as much. STILL starts immediately, and
      hasn't stalled out yet.

      With the other guy's 3.5 motor . . . 1 - DUMP {properly, of course}the
      old fuel and FLUSH the tank well with fresh fuel. 2 - DRAIN & flush the
      carburetor 3 - CLEAN the internal fuel filter 4 - REFILL with FRESH
      fuel/ STABILIZER/oil mix & and run engine at mid throttle {or greater}
      for at least 30 minutes. After doing this, and following my 'normal'
      procedures, he had NO MORE stalling problems.

      On a '4-stroke' note, I had similar 'sputtering' problems with my old
      {1984}Toyota Pick-up, and also my 'new' 1995 Isuzu. The 'Toy' was very
      fuel efficient, and would go for weeks between fill-ups. It also sat in
      the drive more that it was on the road. A steel tank, in cool weather
      picks up a good amount of condensation. In addition, because the gas &
      water AREN'T mixed {THAT'S what the 'dryer' does}, the water
      ACCUMULATES. Even with the modern 'emission proof' non-vented tanks,
      this does happen. When I started to have a rough running engine, I would
      immediately added a couple of pints {of dryer}to the tank. By the way,
      those expensive 'Fuel Injector Cleaners' that suggest adding to each
      tank - they are basically ALCOHOL. I typically add a pint of Isopropyl
      dryer at least once a month, during the winter. Also, simply keeping the
      tank full reduces the tendency . . . I try not to let my fuel level get
      below 1/4 tank, at any season.

      Regards & Good Luck,
      Ron Magen
      Backyard Boatshop
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