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Re: Faux Decking

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  • Peter Lenihan
    ... Tom, The only picture I have,and it isn t the best shot,is here in the files,click on head jpg ;
    Message 1 of 10 , Aug 29, 2003
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      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
      >
      > Do you have any pictures of the deck on your Micro?
      >

      Tom,
      The only picture I have,and it isn't the best shot,is here in the
      files,click on "head jpg";

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/Lenihans%27%20%20%
      22LESTAT%22%20/

      It is also a very BIG photo so may take some time to load.

      sincerely,
      peter lenihan







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      > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
      > wrote:
      > > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
      > > > Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just
      > plywood?
      > > >
      > > Tom,
      > > I did just that for the foreward well deck on my MICRO.I
      used
      > > 3/4" mahogany plywood.
      > > I do not know the specified thickness of the SNEAKEASY fore
      > deck
      > > but it must be no more then 1/4".This will not leavemuch room for
      > the
      > > effect you are looking for.
      > > However,if the specs call for a thicker decking,like
      1/2",you
      > > might just be able to pull it off.
      > > Here is how I would proceed;
      > > 1)Measure and cut the plywood to shape
      > > 2)Trace out the lines of your plank"seams"
      > > 3)Try and imagine how they will end as each "plank" comes to
      > the
      > > edge of the deck.That is,will you also be drawing in a kingplank
      > and
      > > covering board to achieve the laid deck"look"? Or will you have a
      > > herring bone effect on center with just the nibs cut into the
      > > coveringboard? If you avoid either approach and just run the
      planks
      > > off into thin slices at the edge of the deck,it will
      > look....ah...not
      > > very nice:-)
      > > 4)Once you have settled on a plank layout,cut a kerf no
      more
      > > then about 3/16" deep,depending on how thick your deck is.
      > > 5)Install your deck onto the boat.
      > > 6) Completely seal, with epoxy, the kerfs and
      > deck.Ideally,you
      > > would use a penetrating sealer epoxy and not the thicker
      epoxy"glue"
      > > 7)Once the exposed wood inside the kerf stops soaking up
      the
      > > epoxy sealer,stop adding the epoxy and let this cure.
      > > 8) Once cured,go into each and every kerf with a piece of
      > > tightly folded sand paper, no thicker then your kerf, and give a
      > good
      > > sanding.(a good sanding is when you no longer see the gloss of
      the
      > > epoxy)
      > > 8)Lay down making tape along the edge of each kerf their
      > entire
      > > length.
      > > 9)Lay in a nice bead of either black or white Sikaflex
      > compound
      > > or other similar product.
      > > 10) Once all the seams have been"layed",remove the masking
      > > tape.
      > > 11) Allow the seam compound to fully cure.
      > > 12) Using an 80 grit paper,sand your entire deck,paying
      > > particular attention to the edges of your seams.
      > > 13) Once everthing hase been nicely sanded and cleaned
      up,go
      > > over the deck once more with a couple of coats of epoxy
      > > sealer,lightly sanding between coats.
      > > 14) Apply about 6 to 10 coats of UV varnish,following the
      > > manufacture's instructions to a "T".
      > >
      > > That's how I did my MICRO's well deck and it has maintained its
      > like
      > > new look through 10 years of Canadian style seasons.
      > >
      > > Hope this helps for your SNEAKEASY
      > >
      > > Sincerely,
      > > Peter Lenihan
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