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Re: [bolger] Bilge pump, wiring/voltage questions.

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  • Doug Harrison
    ... Bruce; 12V lighting is generally a rip-off. However, I found a place in AZ that carries electronic ballasted 12V lights for a fraction of what the RV
    Message 1 of 6 , Feb 5, 2003
      2/5/2003 1:44:03 PM, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@...>" <brucehallman@...> wrote:
      >Pricing light fixtures, 110V florescent bulbs
      >and fixtures are cheaper by a factor of 10 than
      >the 12V florescent light fixtures. Would I be
      >nuts to have 110V lighting circuits in the boat?
      >
      Bruce;
      12V lighting is generally a rip-off. However, I found a place in AZ that carries electronic ballasted 12V lights for a fraction
      of what the RV suppliers charge. Try http://www.solar-electric.com/

      The electronic ballast lights are easier on the eyes, quieter and more reliable than conventional magnetic ballast
      lamps. These use regular bulbs. Also, there is no difference in quality or reliability between 12V and 120V as long as
      you stick with electronic. This is not the case with mag ballast. All the new 120V screw-in florescent bulbs have
      electronic ballasts. These would be my first choice if I were using 120V.

      The only caviat with automatic bilge pumps is that you must use a reliable switch or you will end up with either a dead
      battery or sunken vessel. Practical Sailor Magazine tests the various switches occasionally and is probably the best
      source for current information. Previous tests have shown that function and price are not related.

      Doug
    • prthober <prthober@yahoo.com>
      Message 2 of 6 , Feb 5, 2003
        <As for navigation lights, I need port, starboard, stern light and an
        anchor light on top of the main mast, right? Does the stern light
        belong on top of the mizzen mast, or on an independent light pole on
        the stern?>

        Port and Starboard can be one combination light. On my Chebacco I put
        the anchor light at the top of the mizzen to allow easier
        maintenance; my stern light is at deck level at the transom.

        <Would I be nuts to have 110V lighting circuits in the boat?>

        The greater complexity and cost of an inverter plus the danger of
        110VAC easily outweighs the cost of the 12 VDC lamps.

        Paul
      • John Cupp <caj@kfalls.net>
        Bruce try to stay away of 120V on your boat unless you have 120V at dockside then get a big bilge pump for those extended times away from the boat. See f you
        Message 3 of 6 , Feb 5, 2003
          Bruce try to stay away of 120V on your boat unless you have 120V at
          dockside then get a big bilge pump for those extended times away from
          the boat. See f you can find a new wrecked RV trailer for all the
          electrical systems. Then you can have dual power lights and a circuit
          box to die for. You may even be able to save the frame to make a boat
          trailer. You can buy them for a song because most scrap dealers think
          they are more work than profit.

          With all the 12V devices out there now why would you need AC on your
          boat. I buy fuel for my pickup at a Pilot truck stop and they have
          everything you could imagine for trucker to run on 12V DC. I even saw
          a 12V deep fryer. can't you imagine some guy cruising down I-5 making
          French fries in his 18 wheeler! I even saw some 12V white LED cab
          lights that all you have to do is connect the wires. They even have
          12V color TV/VCR's with radios so you can get the play by play on
          KGO.

          You also can go the route of have a portable gen set. I have a small
          Honda that measures about 20" X 15" X 12" with the handle it looks
          like a tool box but it can charge 12V DC batteries and it also puts
          out 120 V AC for lights and a TV ON the lake here when I would go
          fishing I could just use my trolling motor and when it was time to go
          home I would hook up the Honda on the 12V side and run at full power
          all the way home. It uses to much gas though about every ten hours
          you have to add a quart and check the oil.


          John




          --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
          <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
          > I am beginning to think through the wiring
          > for my Micro Navigator project, [Before I
          > cover up every wiring chase.]
          >
          > As I plan on having the boat 'wired' for
          > comfort, two RV batteries, charged
          > with one (or two) 50 watt photovoltaic cells...
          > ...with an AC converter. So I can have a TV
          > for watching SF Giants games in McCovey Cove
          > waiting for the next Barry Bonds splash hit.
          >
          > Pricing light fixtures, 110V florescent bulbs
          > and fixtures are cheaper by a factor of 10 than
          > the 12V florescent light fixtures. Would I be
          > nuts to have 110V lighting circuits in the boat?
          >
          > Also, I am guessing that installing an automatic
          > bilge pump would be cheap insurance. Anyone
          > have ideas and suggestions about this?
          >
          > As for navigation lights, I need port, starboard, stern light
          > and an anchor light on top of the main mast, right?
          >
          > Does the stern light belong on top of the mizzen mast, or on an
          > independent light pole on the stern?
        • sctree
          My two cents, base only on my experience; Batteries... I vehad good luck with gel batteries. Yes, I know they cost more and there are special charging
          Message 4 of 6 , Feb 5, 2003
            My two cents, base only on my experience;

            Batteries... I'vehad good luck with gel batteries. Yes, I know they cost
            more and there are special charging requirements, but .... they don't
            spill, leak, or fume, very nice as I assume you'll be living "in" the
            battery compartment. They are very tolerant of long term non-use, low
            temperature storage, and are vibration resistant. Very easy to stow away
            a second backup battery that you can swap out when the juice goes down.

            Wiring chase .. Are you building in pvc pipe chases? Cheap and neat.
            Make em much bigger dia. than you think you'll need. For gosh sakes used
            the tinned ancor marine grade wire, and marine grade adhesive-shrink
            waterproof terminals.

            Nav lights... You need port and starboard sidelights (or a combo) plus a
            stern light which should be low for sailing. AND a white masthead
            (steaming) light facing the forward 112.5 degrees, which does not have
            to be at the top of the mast, but it does need to be at least a meter (I
            think) above the sidelights for use when under power.. A sailboat under
            power IS a powerboat. The anchor light is another additional light.
            You could go with a masthead tricolor. Big bucks, wiring up the mast is
            tougher to do and maintain. Also, if you go out on the Bay at night
            you'll notice a tricolor on the masthead of a small boat does not stand
            out as well as deck mounted nav lights.....

            Anchor light... can be stowed below and hoisted on a halyard when
            necessary. Davis makes a nice low amp (0.074A) auto off in daylight
            "Mini Mega Light" with a 12v lighter plug. They claim a 1000 continuous
            hours on an 80Ah battery. Visible 2 nm, but not USCG approved as an
            official anchor light..

            As nice as solar sounds it's much easier and cheaper to take the battery
            home and charge it up. (Remember that non leaking, no-spill, non fuming,
            ok to lay it on it's side gel battery?)

            120volt and salt air/water is not a good combo. Don't you lose a lot of
            juice going through an inverter? How much light do you need in that
            cabin? And how big is that TV? There are small low draw 12v TV's out there.

            Bilge pump... Tough decision, you'd need something pretty big, with a
            dependable switch and a good battery that was mounted high to keep up
            with much of a hull breach, then how long would that battery last?. A
            small slow leak would just let water slosh around as there is not a sump
            area for the water to collect into. By the time she was down enough for
            the pump to do much, I'd think someone at the marina (or you if you were
            aboard) would notice... So, Idaknow...

            So much to decide............

            Good luck,

            Rick


            Bruce Hallman wrote:

            > I am beginning to think through the wiring
            > for my Micro Navigator project, [Before I
            > cover up every wiring chase.]
            >
            > As I plan on having the boat 'wired' for
            > comfort, two RV batteries, charged
            > with one (or two) 50 watt photovoltaic cells...
            > ...with an AC converter. So I can have a TV
            > for watching SF Giants games in McCovey Cove
            > waiting for the next Barry Bonds splash hit.
            >
            > Pricing light fixtures, 110V florescent bulbs
            > and fixtures are cheaper by a factor of 10 than
            > the 12V florescent light fixtures. Would I be
            > nuts to have 110V lighting circuits in the boat?
            >
            > Also, I am guessing that installing an automatic
            > bilge pump would be cheap insurance. Anyone
            > have ideas and suggestions about this?
            >
            > As for navigation lights, I need port, starboard, stern light
            > and an anchor light on top of the main mast, right?
            >
            > Does the stern light belong on top of the mizzen mast, or on an
            > independent light pole on the stern?
            >
            >
            > Bolger rules!!!
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            > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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