Re: Peel Ply
- --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, "proaconstrictor
<proaconstrictor@y...>" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> For you simple experiment, I am not sure what improvement there
> be over standard flow coating. Strip canoe folks get perfectdown,
> finishes on smallish projecyts like canoes, and they don't monkey
> around, just spread it out. On the flat, it is easier. Upside
> I am not so sure. Let us know how it works out.You will probably not be surprised to learn that you are 150%
correct! Finish quality on my "epoxy-over-easy-on-poly" experiment
was much less satisfactory than simply flow coating. It's a pity in a
way, as, if it had worked, it would have enabled me to work in an
extra step or two for each weekend's epoxy session.
I was concerned about getting an even thickness of the thickened
finish coat. However, I found I could evenly spread a mayonnaise-like
mix of epoxy and fairing filler with a 1/16" notched trowel over the
curing glass/epoxy without any problem. The goop flowed to a nearly
uniform coat in several minutes. I had worried that the trowel would
tend to snag and drag the cloth, but this did not prove to be a
problem. I did wait 30 minutes or so after rolling out the glass to
give the epoxy time to get somewhat tacky before troweling.
For whatever reasons, the finish coat on the "over-easy" test sample
re-distributed itself, resulting in quite evident variations in
thickness and an number of pits in the surface. It would have
required a lot of sanding and some filling to give an acceptable
Results on a waxed formica platen would probably be better, but if
the pits were the result of out-gassing during the cure, it would
still give a poorer surface finish than simply flow coating.
The "over-easy" technique has the additional defect that there is no
way of determining what your results will be or to take corrective
action. You don't know what you'll get until you turn the cured piece
So, all in all, this was not a good idea.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
- I have not experienced the outgassing phenomenon using MDO
plywood. I have used peelply only on the butt joints and consider
it well worth the expense. When I removed the clamping boards,
there was no filling or sanding required.
For pre-glassing or coating the large flat surfaces in the
horizontal position, peelply is too expensive and is unnecessary.
I use adhesive applicator roller covers. These are roller covers
with 1/8" nylon bristles rather than the nap found on paint rollers.
They are specifically designed for epoxy and other adhesives.
They are made by Linzer and I find them at Home Depot. I cut
them in half because I find it less tiring to use a 4" roller. Short
lengths of these roller covers, split on the bandsaw and wedged
into a saw kerf at the end of a stick, make great brushes.
--- In email@example.com, "home" <boatbuilding@g...>
> Probably all of the above. Out-gassing is a real problem withepoxy in some
> temperature environments where it can swing by largeamounts. I have a real
> problem with it here in CO where nights can be 55 - 60degrees and day time