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Re: Peel Ply

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  • wmrpage <wmrpage@aol.com>
    ... would ... down, ... You will probably not be surprised to learn that you are 150% correct! Finish quality on my epoxy-over-easy-on-poly experiment was
    Message 1 of 65 , Feb 2, 2003
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      --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor
      <proaconstrictor@y...>" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
      >
      > For you simple experiment, I am not sure what improvement there
      would
      > be over standard flow coating. Strip canoe folks get perfect
      > finishes on smallish projecyts like canoes, and they don't monkey
      > around, just spread it out. On the flat, it is easier. Upside
      down,
      > I am not so sure. Let us know how it works out.

      You will probably not be surprised to learn that you are 150%
      correct! Finish quality on my "epoxy-over-easy-on-poly" experiment
      was much less satisfactory than simply flow coating. It's a pity in a
      way, as, if it had worked, it would have enabled me to work in an
      extra step or two for each weekend's epoxy session.

      I was concerned about getting an even thickness of the thickened
      finish coat. However, I found I could evenly spread a mayonnaise-like
      mix of epoxy and fairing filler with a 1/16" notched trowel over the
      curing glass/epoxy without any problem. The goop flowed to a nearly
      uniform coat in several minutes. I had worried that the trowel would
      tend to snag and drag the cloth, but this did not prove to be a
      problem. I did wait 30 minutes or so after rolling out the glass to
      give the epoxy time to get somewhat tacky before troweling.

      For whatever reasons, the finish coat on the "over-easy" test sample
      re-distributed itself, resulting in quite evident variations in
      thickness and an number of pits in the surface. It would have
      required a lot of sanding and some filling to give an acceptable
      surface.

      Results on a waxed formica platen would probably be better, but if
      the pits were the result of out-gassing during the cure, it would
      still give a poorer surface finish than simply flow coating.
      The "over-easy" technique has the additional defect that there is no
      way of determining what your results will be or to take corrective
      action. You don't know what you'll get until you turn the cured piece
      over.

      So, all in all, this was not a good idea.

      Ciao for Niao,

      Bill in MN
    • soussouchew <vachew@voyager.net>
      I have not experienced the outgassing phenomenon using MDO plywood. I have used peelply only on the butt joints and consider it well worth the expense. When I
      Message 65 of 65 , Feb 4, 2003
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        I have not experienced the outgassing phenomenon using MDO
        plywood. I have used peelply only on the butt joints and consider
        it well worth the expense. When I removed the clamping boards,
        there was no filling or sanding required.

        For pre-glassing or coating the large flat surfaces in the
        horizontal position, peelply is too expensive and is unnecessary.
        I use adhesive applicator roller covers. These are roller covers
        with 1/8" nylon bristles rather than the nap found on paint rollers.
        They are specifically designed for epoxy and other adhesives.
        They are made by Linzer and I find them at Home Depot. I cut
        them in half because I find it less tiring to use a 4" roller. Short
        lengths of these roller covers, split on the bandsaw and wedged
        into a saw kerf at the end of a stick, make great brushes.

        Vince Chew


        --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "home" <boatbuilding@g...>
        wrote:
        > Probably all of the above. Out-gassing is a real problem with
        epoxy in some
        > temperature environments where it can swing by large
        amounts. I have a real
        > problem with it here in CO where nights can be 55 - 60
        degrees and day time
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