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[bolger] folding schooner const update

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  • harding2@home.com
    Have cut out and dry assembled all the frames and stem for the forward hull. Probably a little paranoid but we wanted to make sure we got the framing bevel
    Message 1 of 1 , Sep 4 6:15 PM
      Have cut out and dry assembled all the frames and stem for the forward
      hull. Probably a little paranoid but we wanted to make sure we got the
      framing bevel right before gluing it down. Figured if we cut something
      the wrong way, it was easier to replace some framing than do the whole
      layout again.

      After fretting over the best way to join the marine ply sheets we
      bought for the sides, we put an 8" 1/4" ply butt block with epoxy only
      on the inside and glass tape on the outside. Having done this I suspect
      that glass tape on both sides may be actually stronger because it is
      more flexible. I can hear Dave Carnell saying "I told you so." The
      difference is probably irrelevant in this appilication. When we did our
      canoe we did both sides at once and got a crease and bubble on the
      bottom tape. You need a really flat floor or some ply you can afford to
      lay down and it still looks hard to me. I think we got a neater tape
      joint on the outside because of the flatness and stability given by the
      butt block.

      Used superbond from Fiberglass coatings for the ply butt joint and to
      fill the crack that developed in the seam when the bottom of the sheet
      somehow wondered off. We had the sheets tacked down and weighted with
      cinder blocks but still had something go amiss and had about 1/16 to
      fill toward the bottom of the joined sheets. (I can see why Jim
      Michalak uses a board to back up his seams. You can put some decent
      screws in them and you know they aren't going anywhere.)

      Used the 1:1 laminating epoxy from Fiberglass Coatings and 4" tape
      from West Systems. It was 25% more than the bulk tape at our local West
      Marine but it looked a tighter weave and easier to fill and less likely
      to run on us before we could get it installed.

      I bought a pint each of resin and activator and they come in paint
      cans. We just spooned the stuff out, one spoon of each and mixed it in
      a plastic cup. My oldest son is the epoxy expert, uses it alot in
      building his radio controlled airplanes. He favors putting the tape on
      dry and forcing the epoxy through with a plastic scraper or squeegie. I
      would rather paint the wood first but think he works the piece so
      thoroughly that the wood is well wetted out. When the tape is
      transparent and thoroughly wetted out we put a piece of wax paper over
      it and squeegie that in. Put a board on it and a couple of cinder
      blocks and go away.

      Being very careful we cut out the sides with just the butt blocks on
      and then put the tape on. Laid out and cut one side and then flipped it
      and used it as the pattern for the other side. Thought briefly about
      tacking the pattern to the work and using a flush cutting bit on the
      router but decided that it would be hard to get a good bearing. On the
      aft hull I think I will rip 2 ft panels from the sheets of ply before
      joining the edges. Much easier to handle and to get to lie flat on our
      garage floor.

      We also picked up some Doug Fir 16 foot 2x4 and ripped out the gunwales
      and had a nice batten left over which we used to lay out the sides.
      This is about as hard as our little tablesaw ought to work. The batten
      urned out to be really unecessary because the runs are almost dead
      straight with very little curve toward the stern. But we got the whole
      family to hold it to the line and felt like real boat builders scribing
      our sheer and chine lines with a batten.

      I bought some 1x4 doug fir flooring for the 1x3 frames on the aft hull.
      They don't have the ply bulkheads and I wanted the extra strength. The
      pine which is the easiest framing stuff to get here is pretty soft. The
      flooring is beautiful and reasonable.

      Next we will dry assemble the forward hull and if all goes well glue
      everything with epoxy and put it together.
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