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[bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats

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  • Lincoln Ross
    tim smith wrote: osnip ... I ve seen glass rudders on Hobies. Seems like you might want some wood or lots of layers on the
    Message 1 of 23 , Feb 1 10:54 AM
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      "tim smith" <timk_smit-@...> wrote:
      osnip
      > "Fiberglass construction makes the best centerboard Isnip
      >
      > snipThe idea sounds good to me, but I'm ignorant: are glass
      > boards standard in glass boats? Osnip

      I've seen glass rudders on Hobies. Seems like you might want some wood
      or lots of layers on the bottom and leading edge of a board. If you
      made a foam core board it would be very easy to hot wire a very nice
      airfoil shape. In simplest case all you would need is two templates, a
      homemade bow to keep the wire tight, some .020" music wire, some jumper
      cables and two 12 V batteries or a charger and a 12V battery. If you
      look around model airplane sights or airplane homebuilding sites I am
      sure you will find out how to do this. Of course if you use urethane
      you mustn't hot wire it due to toxicity.

      One model site: www.charlesriverrc.org (that's where I'd start looking
      if I needed this info)
    • Tim Smith
      samson family wrote: original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2172 ... maintenance ... plane it ... Bill, that was
      Message 2 of 23 , Feb 1 11:13 AM
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        "samson family" <bill.samso-@...> wrote:
        original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2172
        > I've got the same problem as Tim. The major job in this year's
        maintenance
        > is to hoist the Chebacco high enough to get the **$£$! board out,
        plane it
        > down a bit, re-glass and epoxy it.


        Bill, that was my fix the last time around. Lasted two seasons. And
        the work was done by a reputable yard, not disreputable me.
      • Tim Smith
        orr, jamie wrote: original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2167 ... or bend ... will ... warping! ... Jamie, my board was
        Message 3 of 23 , Feb 1 11:23 AM
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          "orr, jamie" <jor-@...> wrote:
          original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2167
          > Tim
          >
          > How is your board made? And how did it warp -- that is did it cup,
          or bend
          > longwise, or twist, or whatever?
          >
          > My own board is still standing in the shed, so I have no idea what
          will
          > happen when it gets wet. However, with three pieces of ply laminated
          > together, then covered in glass, I'm amazed it can even think about
          warping!
          >
          > Jamie Orr
          >
          Jamie, my board was made by Brad Story, who I guess is said to have
          wrangled with PCB about construction; don't know if any changes were
          made here. Haven't gotten a close enough look to say in which planes
          it's warped. I know it seems inconceivable--mine was planed, glassed
          and glued just two years ago. And Bill S. has the same problem.
        • Peter Vanderwaart
          My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems. Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well. It would be heavy enought to do
          Message 4 of 23 , Feb 1 11:48 AM
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            My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.

            Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well. It
            would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great convenience
            in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
            use epoxy instead of polyester.

            The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is that
            the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.

            There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
            who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an aluminum
            core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
            some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some sort
            waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or under
            showers could be used as a core material.

            Peter
          • djost
            My 1969 Enterprise racing dinghy, a Jack Holt design, has a wooden centerboard. It is made out of marine ply and definitely has positive buoyancy. This is
            Message 5 of 23 , Feb 1 12:45 PM
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              My 1969 Enterprise racing dinghy, a Jack Holt design, has a wooden
              centerboard. It is made out of marine ply and definitely has positive
              buoyancy. This is offset by a grip that consists of what looks like a pair
              of rubber hoses (perhaps old bicycle tires) screwed down so that they grip
              the board just enough so that it does not pop back up. Upwind, the
              combination of leeway and the rubber grips holds the board down.
              Downwind, when the boat starts to come up on plane the board will lift
              about half way up due to the lack of leeward pressure and the speed of the
              boat. That is ok as the boat is much faster with the board raised anyway.

              The biggest problem is that the board is susceptible to breakage. I think
              that it is just strong enough to stand on to right a capsized craft. I had
              occasion to do this last August in Wychmere Harbor on Cape Cod. The mast
              was stuck in the mud and the board held me ok. I have broken two boards
              since 1969, but I think that would be expected on a craft this old.

              Peter Vanderwaart wrote:

              > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
              >
              > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well. It
              > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great convenience
              > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
              > use epoxy instead of polyester.
              >
              > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is that
              > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
              >
              > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
              > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an aluminum
              > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
              > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some sort
              > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or under
              > showers could be used as a core material.
              >
              > Peter
              >
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            • Peter Vanderwaart
              Jack Holt used the same centerboard construction on the GP-14, which was the boat my family had when I was growing up. As I remember, the rubber friction
              Message 6 of 23 , Feb 1 1:20 PM
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                Jack Holt used the same centerboard construction on the GP-14, which
                was the boat my family had when I was growing up. As I remember, the
                rubber friction device had a couple of screws. If you tightened them
                down, the rubber squished to the sides, increasing friction.

                Once when the friction wasn't holding the board down properly at a
                regatta, we tied it down. Then, when we hit a reef, the board broke at
                the pivot pin.

                Peter.

                djost <djos-@...> wrote:
                original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2183
                > My 1969 Enterprise racing dinghy, a Jack Holt design, has a wooden
                > centerboard. It is made out of marine ply and definitely has positive
                > buoyancy. This is offset by a grip that consists of what looks like
                a pair
                > of rubber hoses (perhaps old bicycle tires) screwed down so that they
                grip
                > the board just enough so that it does not pop back up. Upwind, the
                > combination of leeway and the rubber grips holds the board down.
                > Downwind, when the boat starts to come up on plane the board will
                lift
                > about half way up due to the lack of leeward pressure and the speed
                of the
                > boat. That is ok as the boat is much faster with the board raised
                anyway.
                >
                > The biggest problem is that the board is susceptible to breakage. I
                think
                > that it is just strong enough to stand on to right a capsized craft.
                I had
                > occasion to do this last August in Wychmere Harbor on Cape Cod. The
                mast
                > was stuck in the mud and the board held me ok. I have broken two
                boards
                > since 1969, but I think that would be expected on a craft this old.
                >
                > Peter Vanderwaart wrote:
                >
                > > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
                > >
                > > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work
                well. It
                > > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great
                convenience
                > > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
                > > use epoxy instead of polyester.
                > >
                > > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is
                that
                > > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
                > >
                > > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
                > > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an
                aluminum
                > > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
                > > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some
                sort
                > > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or
                under
                > > showers could be used as a core material.
                > >
                > > Peter
                > >
              • Fraser Howell
                My Chebacco centreboard is a sandwich of 1/2 exterior ply enclosing 1/4 aluminum. I had originally glued it with an epoxy that was formulated to stick to
                Message 7 of 23 , Feb 1 1:39 PM
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                  My Chebacco centreboard is a sandwich of 1/2 " exterior ply enclosing
                  1/4" aluminum. I had originally glued it with an epoxy that was
                  formulated to stick to Al, but the board had started to delaminate by
                  the end of the first season. I then wrapped the edges in cloth and
                  epoxy, but that got stuck in the case by mid-summer. I've given up on
                  glue for the centrboard, and on trying to make the affair waterproof. I
                  riveted the whole thing with copper rivets prior to last season, and
                  have had no problems. The board is rigid, and takes the ground well, and
                  only needed about 3 lb of lead to sink properly.
                  The Chebacco rudder is welded al, and it has held up well. It has a
                  horizontal plate on the bottom, and I use it as a boarding ladder when
                  swimming.
                  Cheers;
                  Fraser Howell
                • Robert N. Lundy
                  Oooo.... Every once in while (ok, pretty often) I m amazed at some of the original thinking on this list. Using the concrete backerboard from Home Depot would
                  Message 8 of 23 , Feb 1 2:40 PM
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                    Oooo....

                    Every once in while (ok, pretty often) I'm amazed at some of the original
                    thinking on this list. Using the concrete backerboard from Home Depot would
                    give some heft and glass/epoxy should stick. And you could leave out the
                    lead as the concrete might have enough negative bouancy to sink the whole
                    thing. And this is a product that's designed to withstand water in the
                    first place.

                    Neat idea. Who wants to try it?

                    Robert & Amy Lundy
                    St. Petersburg, fla.
                    robert@...
                    amy@...


                    > -----Original Message-----
                    > From: Peter Vanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]
                    > Sent: February 01, 2000 2:48 PM
                    > To: bolger@...
                    > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
                    >
                    > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well. It
                    > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great convenience
                    > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
                    > use epoxy instead of polyester.
                    >
                    > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is that
                    > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
                    >
                    > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
                    > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an aluminum
                    > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
                    > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some sort
                    > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or under
                    > showers could be used as a core material.
                    >
                    > Peter
                    >
                    >
                    > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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                  • Lincoln Ross
                    An aircraft homebuilding book I have says that gluing to aluminum can be very difficult. All sorts of very careful surface prep required to get a really
                    Message 9 of 23 , Feb 1 6:32 PM
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                      An aircraft homebuilding book I have says that gluing to aluminum can
                      be very difficult. All sorts of very careful surface prep required to
                      get a really reliable joint. scrub, phosphoric acid, distilled water
                      rinse, proper handling of cleaning rags, etc. CLeanliness absolutely
                      critical. Not to even be touched with hands. One trick was to put on
                      thin layer of slow epoxy and THEN do a final scrub, as epoxy would
                      prevent oxidation, etc. Of course you'd have to wipe the debris off.

                      fraser.howel-@... (fraser howell) wrote:
                      snipglued it with an epoxy that was
                      > formulated to stick to Al, but the board had started to delaminate by
                      > the end of the first season.
                      >
                    • John Bell
                      I knew a guy who built wooden kayak paddles. He used aluminum plate sandwiched in between the wooden faces to make a durable tip. He said he tried everything
                      Message 10 of 23 , Feb 1 7:17 PM
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                        I knew a guy who built wooden kayak paddles. He used aluminum plate
                        sandwiched in between the wooden faces to make a durable tip. He said he
                        tried everything to get that aluminum to stick because the tips getting
                        knocked out was the number one reason for returns. His solution to the
                        problem was pretty simple. He would drill a number of holes in the aluminum.
                        Then, he'd thread the holes with thick fiberglass yarn pulled off a piece of
                        heavy glass cloth. Then he would slather the slot in the tip of the paddle
                        with epoxy and slide the aluminum tip in. He later converted to plastic tips
                        using this technique. I suspect it would work pretty well for making a
                        plywood centerboard with an aluminum center, too.

                        John Bell
                        Kennesaw, GA
                        jmbell@...
                        http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com


                        ----- Original Message -----
                        From: Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...>
                        To: <bolger@...>
                        Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 9:32 PM
                        Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats


                        > An aircraft homebuilding book I have says that gluing to aluminum can
                        > be very difficult. All sorts of very careful surface prep required to
                        > get a really reliable joint. scrub, phosphoric acid, distilled water
                        > rinse, proper handling of cleaning rags, etc. CLeanliness absolutely
                        > critical. Not to even be touched with hands. One trick was to put on
                        > thin layer of slow epoxy and THEN do a final scrub, as epoxy would
                        > prevent oxidation, etc. Of course you'd have to wipe the debris off.
                        >
                        > fraser.howel-@... (fraser howell) wrote:
                        > snipglued it with an epoxy that was
                        > > formulated to stick to Al, but the board had started to delaminate by
                        > > the end of the first season.
                        > >
                        >
                        >
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                      • Lincoln Ross
                        The aircraft book I have says to do both. BUt then again, your boat will still float if your board brakes. I think the epoxy layer helps, but if you have a
                        Message 11 of 23 , Feb 1 7:28 PM
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                          The aircraft book I have says to do both. BUt then again, your boat
                          will still float if your board brakes. I think the epoxy layer helps,
                          but if you have a little oil in there I'll bet you are still sunk.

                          david <galvin-@...> wrote:
                          original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2202
                          > Lincoln:
                          > The Gougeon Brothers describe a technique of bonding epoxy to metals
                          where
                          > you clean the metal up and apply a layer of epoxy, then scrub the wet
                          > epoxied surface with stainless steel wool or wet and dry sandpapersnip
                          > > An aircraft homebuilding book I have says that snip
                        • david
                          Lincoln: The Gougeon Brothers describe a technique of bonding epoxy to metals where you clean the metal up and apply a layer of epoxy, then scrub the wet
                          Message 12 of 23 , Feb 1 9:56 PM
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                            Lincoln:
                            The Gougeon Brothers describe a technique of bonding epoxy to metals where you clean the metal up and apply a layer of epoxy, then scrub the wet epoxied surface with stainless steel wool or wet and dry sandpaper to achieve a raw surface onto which the epoxy and thus the wood, can bond. The sanding dust remains in the epoxy, where it presumably does no harm. I haven't tried this, but it seems workable on aluminum, and would save you the demanding surface prep that is usually required, as you suggest. Someone mentioned fastening the plywood to the aluminum with copper rivets, I think. In seawater I believe this would turn the board into a nice battery and rapidly devour the aluminum. You could get away with it in most fresh water environments, however,
                            david

                            Lincoln Ross wrote:

                            An aircraft homebuilding book I have says that gluing to aluminum can
                            be very difficult. All sorts of very careful surface prep required to
                            get a really reliable joint. scrub, phosphoric acid, distilled water
                            rinse, proper handling of cleaning rags, etc. CLeanliness absolutely
                            critical. Not to even be touched with hands.  One trick was to put on
                            thin layer of slow epoxy and THEN do a final scrub, as epoxy would
                            prevent oxidation, etc. Of course you'd have to wipe the debris off.

                            fraser.howel-@... (fraser howell) wrote:
                            snipglued it with an epoxy that was
                            > formulated to stick to Al, but the board had started to delaminate by
                            > the end of the first season.
                            >

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                          • Bill Samson
                            ... A wee bit of lateral thinking here - but have you checked the slot and made sure that it s not getting narrower (i.e. sides swelling)? That d have the
                            Message 13 of 23 , Feb 2 1:51 AM
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                              >get the **$�$! board out,
                              >plane it
                              > > down a bit, re-glass and epoxy it.
                              >
                              >
                              >Bill, that was my fix the last time around. Lasted two seasons. And
                              >the work was done by a reputable yard, not disreputable me.
                              >
                              >

                              A wee bit of lateral thinking here - but have you checked the slot and made
                              sure that it's not getting narrower (i.e. sides swelling)? That'd have the
                              same effect as a swelling board (though harder to fix). The slot should be
                              1.5" wide all over. The board should be 1.25" thick in the middle.

                              Have PCB&F got any views on the suitability of a steel centreplate for a
                              Chebacco?

                              Bill

                              Bill

                              Bill
                              ______________________________________________________
                            • Fries, John
                              Very interresting. A discussion a few days back about the relative ease of building the Single Handed Schooner vs. Light Schooner focused on the lead in the
                              Message 14 of 23 , Feb 2 6:55 AM
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                                Very interresting. A discussion a few days back about the relative ease of
                                building the Single Handed Schooner vs. Light Schooner focused on the lead
                                in the centerboard. How about using concrete? I know it wouldn't be as
                                heavy as the lead, but, if you coated the interior of the void to be filled
                                with epoxy first, that could address concerns about rot at the wood/concrete
                                interface. Probably would coat the outside of the concrete with epoxy for
                                further waterproofing. Is this crazy?

                                > -----Original Message-----
                                > From: Robert N. Lundy [SMTP:robert@...]
                                > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 5:41 PM
                                > To: bolger@egroups.com
                                > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                >
                                > Oooo....
                                >
                                > Every once in while (ok, pretty often) I'm amazed at some of the original
                                > thinking on this list. Using the concrete backerboard from Home Depot
                                > would
                                > give some heft and glass/epoxy should stick. And you could leave out the
                                > lead as the concrete might have enough negative bouancy to sink the whole
                                > thing. And this is a product that's designed to withstand water in the
                                > first place.
                                >
                                > Neat idea. Who wants to try it?
                                >
                                > Robert & Amy Lundy
                                > St. Petersburg, fla.
                                > robert@...
                                > amy@...
                                >
                                >
                                > > -----Original Message-----
                                > > From: Peter Vanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]
                                > > Sent: February 01, 2000 2:48 PM
                                > > To: bolger@...
                                > > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                > >
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
                                > >
                                > > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well. It
                                > > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great convenience
                                > > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
                                > > use epoxy instead of polyester.
                                > >
                                > > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is that
                                > > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
                                > >
                                > > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
                                > > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an aluminum
                                > > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
                                > > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some sort
                                > > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or under
                                > > showers could be used as a core material.
                                > >
                                > > Peter
                                > >
                                > >
                                > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                > > GET A NEXTCARD VISA, in 30 seconds! Get rates as low as 0.0%
                                > > Intro APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
                                > > http://click.egroups.com/1/975/5/_/3457/_/949434489/
                                > >
                                > > -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
                                > > -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
                                > >
                                > >
                                >
                                >
                                > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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                              • Fries, John
                                Yes, that s a good point and another very good idea. Having all these minds working on a problem is an example of the net acting as a distributed processing
                                Message 15 of 23 , Feb 2 11:59 AM
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                                  Yes, that's a good point and another very good idea. Having all these minds
                                  working on a problem is an example of the net acting as a 'distributed
                                  processing platform' for all of us biological computers.

                                  > -----Original Message-----
                                  > From: Chuck Leinweber [SMTP:duckworks@...]
                                  > Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 3:15 PM
                                  > To: bolger@egroups.com
                                  > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                  >
                                  > John:
                                  >
                                  > IMHO the advantage of concrete for ballast is it's ability to conform to
                                  > odd
                                  > shapes in the bilges of larger (preferably steel) boats. Wouldn't steel
                                  > plate encased in epoxy would be better than concrete in this application?
                                  >
                                  > Chuck Leinweber
                                  > Duckworks Magazine
                                  > http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > ----- Original Message -----
                                  > From: Fries, John <John.Fries@...>
                                  > To: <bolger@egroups.com>
                                  > Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 6:55 AM
                                  > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                  >
                                  >
                                  > > Very interresting. A discussion a few days back about the relative ease
                                  > of
                                  > > building the Single Handed Schooner vs. Light Schooner focused on the
                                  > lead
                                  > > in the centerboard. How about using concrete? I know it wouldn't be as
                                  > > heavy as the lead, but, if you coated the interior of the void to be
                                  > filled
                                  > > with epoxy first, that could address concerns about rot at the
                                  > wood/concrete
                                  > > interface. Probably would coat the outside of the concrete with epoxy
                                  > for
                                  > > further waterproofing. Is this crazy?
                                  > >
                                  > > > -----Original Message-----
                                  > > > From: Robert N. Lundy [SMTP:robert@...]
                                  > > > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 5:41 PM
                                  > > > To: bolger@egroups.com
                                  > > > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Oooo....
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Every once in while (ok, pretty often) I'm amazed at some of the
                                  > original
                                  > > > thinking on this list. Using the concrete backerboard from Home Depot
                                  > > > would
                                  > > > give some heft and glass/epoxy should stick. And you could leave out
                                  > the
                                  > > > lead as the concrete might have enough negative bouancy to sink the
                                  > whole
                                  > > > thing. And this is a product that's designed to withstand water in
                                  > the
                                  > > > first place.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Neat idea. Who wants to try it?
                                  > > >
                                  > > > Robert & Amy Lundy
                                  > > > St. Petersburg, fla.
                                  > > > robert@...
                                  > > > amy@...
                                  > > >
                                  > > >
                                  > > > > -----Original Message-----
                                  > > > > From: Peter Vanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]
                                  > > > > Sent: February 01, 2000 2:48 PM
                                  > > > > To: bolger@...
                                  > > > > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well.
                                  > It
                                  > > > > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great
                                  > convenience
                                  > > > > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
                                  > > > > use epoxy instead of polyester.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is
                                  > that
                                  > > > > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
                                  > > > > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an
                                  > aluminum
                                  > > > > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
                                  > > > > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some
                                  > sort
                                  > > > > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or
                                  > under
                                  > > > > showers could be used as a core material.
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > > Peter
                                  > > > >
                                  > > > >
                                  > > >
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                                • Chuck Leinweber
                                  John: IMHO the advantage of concrete for ballast is it s ability to conform to odd shapes in the bilges of larger (preferably steel) boats. Wouldn t steel
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Feb 2 12:14 PM
                                  • 0 Attachment
                                    John:

                                    IMHO the advantage of concrete for ballast is it's ability to conform to odd
                                    shapes in the bilges of larger (preferably steel) boats. Wouldn't steel
                                    plate encased in epoxy would be better than concrete in this application?

                                    Chuck Leinweber
                                    Duckworks Magazine
                                    http://www.duckworksmagazine.com


                                    ----- Original Message -----
                                    From: Fries, John <John.Fries@...>
                                    To: <bolger@egroups.com>
                                    Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 6:55 AM
                                    Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats


                                    > Very interresting. A discussion a few days back about the relative ease
                                    of
                                    > building the Single Handed Schooner vs. Light Schooner focused on the lead
                                    > in the centerboard. How about using concrete? I know it wouldn't be as
                                    > heavy as the lead, but, if you coated the interior of the void to be
                                    filled
                                    > with epoxy first, that could address concerns about rot at the
                                    wood/concrete
                                    > interface. Probably would coat the outside of the concrete with epoxy for
                                    > further waterproofing. Is this crazy?
                                    >
                                    > > -----Original Message-----
                                    > > From: Robert N. Lundy [SMTP:robert@...]
                                    > > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 5:41 PM
                                    > > To: bolger@egroups.com
                                    > > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                    > >
                                    > > Oooo....
                                    > >
                                    > > Every once in while (ok, pretty often) I'm amazed at some of the
                                    original
                                    > > thinking on this list. Using the concrete backerboard from Home Depot
                                    > > would
                                    > > give some heft and glass/epoxy should stick. And you could leave out
                                    the
                                    > > lead as the concrete might have enough negative bouancy to sink the
                                    whole
                                    > > thing. And this is a product that's designed to withstand water in the
                                    > > first place.
                                    > >
                                    > > Neat idea. Who wants to try it?
                                    > >
                                    > > Robert & Amy Lundy
                                    > > St. Petersburg, fla.
                                    > > robert@...
                                    > > amy@...
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > > -----Original Message-----
                                    > > > From: Peter Vanderwaart [mailto:pvanderw@...]
                                    > > > Sent: February 01, 2000 2:48 PM
                                    > > > To: bolger@...
                                    > > > Subject: [bolger] Re: glass boards in wooden boats
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > > My Stuart-built Mariner had a FG centerboard. No problems.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Given a satisfactory way to build one, an FG board should work well.
                                    It
                                    > > > would be heavy enought to do without lead inserts - a great
                                    convenience
                                    > > > in the building. If you don't have a wooden core, I see no reason to
                                    > > > use epoxy instead of polyester.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > The problem with using wood or, more especially, foam as a core is
                                    that
                                    > > > the board may turn out to have positive buoyancy.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > There was an article in the Catboat Bulletin some years ago by a man
                                    > > > who made a new centerboard for his Marshall catboat using an aluminum
                                    > > > core (which was quite flexible), covered by FG. I wonder if there is
                                    > > > some other possibility in the stacks at Home Depot. Perhaps some sort
                                    > > > waterproof panel material used behind tile walls in bathrooms or under
                                    > > > showers could be used as a core material.
                                    > > >
                                    > > > Peter
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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                                    > > > Intro APR and no hidden fees. Apply NOW!
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                                    > > >
                                    > > > -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
                                    > > > -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    > >
                                    > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
                                    > > Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! Rates as low as 2.9%
                                    > > Intro or 9.9% Fixed APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points,
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                                    > >
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                                    > >
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