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Re: A five dollar failure

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  • rnlocnil
    Had you used the previous places before painting with the oil based? If you managed to get oil or slime of some sort on the boat during use, I wouldn t be
    Message 1 of 8 , Jul 1, 2002
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      Had you used the previous places before painting with the oil based?
      If you managed to get oil or slime of some sort on the boat during
      use, I wouldn't be surprised if the oil paint doesn't stick either
      without a detergent wash of some sort. TSP works great for this but is
      not environmentally good.
      --- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
      > Yes, it really ran off. Big puddles of paint in the chine of the
      boat
      > when I went out to look at it this morning. Nope, no detergent. Just
      > scrubbed everything with the grinder before painting, then rinses
      the
      > dust off and let it dry before painting.
      >
      > The biggest culprits were areas that were just bare epoxy. You could
      > see the paint just slid off during the night. Other area were
      > marginal, while still other came out fine.
      >
      > In any event, I'm going back to oil-based urethane paint porch
      paint.
      > Haven't had anything but good luck with that. Just give your
      > epoxy/glass a good sanding and then slap it on.
      >
      > YIBB,
      >
      > David
      >
    • Chris Crandall
      ... I really recommend a good primer. Primers serve many useful purposes, and certainly pay for themselves in terms of looks, time, and money. I like to use
      Message 2 of 8 , Jul 2, 2002
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        On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, David Ryan wrote:
        > In any event, I'm going back to oil-based urethane paint porch paint.
        > Haven't had anything but good luck with that. Just give your
        > epoxy/glass a good sanding and then slap it on.

        I really recommend a good primer. Primers serve many useful purposes, and
        certainly pay for themselves in terms of looks, time, and money. I like to
        use Kilz brand latex primer.

        If you want to smooth things out a little bit, you can add crushed
        limestone to the primer--it's not exactly a high-tech high build primer,
        but it does work nicely. Make sure you sand it when dry.

        The primer is more tenacious to surfaces, and provide a nice surface for
        the next coat of paint. Failure of David's sort are substantially less
        likely. In addition, they help build up a system that's more tolerant.
        David has concluded that latex is a bad bet, and that oil-based is what he
        should use. I feel that this is a hasty conclusion; the judicious use of
        primer would've created a good finish, I'll bet.

        Primer dries very quickly, at least latex primer does. I can put down a
        coat, and sand in 30 minutes, ready for the next coat.

        Finally, a good primer just doesn't cost all that much (OK, $10 gallon).
        But it keeps you from having to put down too many extra coats of top coat.
        The primer has aluminum oxide--an excellent cover for stains, wild grain,
        and other visually unwelcome flaws in the wood/epoxy below. It saves
        moeny in reducing the number of top coats.

        The primer is more forgiving in application than top coats--it's easy to
        slather on, compared to final top coats, which can be fussy.

        In short, I feel that there is simply no advantage at all to skipping the
        primer stage. It's fast, it's easy, it's cheap, and it's tenacious. On
        every dimension it improves the final appearance of the boat, at no
        ultimate cost to time, money, or effort.

        I've built without primer and with it. I'll never again go back to
        skipping the primer step.
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